20 Most Recent Electric Superwinch LP8500 Series Utility & Off Road Winch LP 8500 12 Volt DC Electr Questions & Answers

Here is a sample of how to wire a winch. I have built my own box with relays to swap the power for reverse etc I'm not sure if you have to buy an extra kit where someone has done the work for you or not. It looks neater when purchased. Click here

This may help (or maybe not):
The Black wire is the ground wire, and the other two are considered Hot wires, and their
order does not matter - they carry 240 Volts AC.
So, once you identify which terminal on the solenoid is ground, connect Black to it, then just hook up the remaining two Hot wires in any order.

Not only do you need a 12 volt supply (13.8V) to operate this winch, but you also need a.) wire large enough to carry the electrical load, and b.) a power source that has the necessary current (amps) to turn the motor.

If you have wires that are too small, they will heat up and not be able to deliver the current (amps) required by the motor. If your power source is to small - it can not supply the current required. The result of either conditions is "voltage drop". This can be explained the same way your car needs a 12 volt car battery to start. If that car battery was dead, you couldn't connect eight "D" cell batteries (8 x 1.5volts = 12 volts) together and attach to the car's battery cables and expect it to start. This is because the amount of current available in the car battery is hundreds of time greater than eight "D" cell batteries - even though when the D cells are connected in series - both systems deliver 12 volts.

If neither of the above conditions is present, then there could be an electrical problem with the drive motor itself. This could be a shorted / melted winding or other electrical connection that is not right, even if the drum spins freely.

If the relays constantly click, your motor is shorted out and bad causing your thermal breaker to trip and open the relays. You will have to replace the motor.

It sounds like you have broken a pinion tooth. Remove the screw from the end housings and open to inspect the drive gears. Parts can be purchased from Superwinch for these or off e-Bay.

Take your voltmeter and verify your voltage at the switch. If it is 11.5 or better, try reversing the motor. Reverse direction requires less ampreage to run and should work fine, then try forward or wind. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

I am wiring a Superwinch 4500 to my Yamaha Rhino.
Problem the two red wires go to the key switch.
Do they just splice into the 12 wire ?

Question edited for a lot more clarity. There is a video that might help, but there is no conversion kit. What some people do it remove the recoil start and use an impact driver or electric drill with a socket that fits the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. https://www.google.com/search?q=Steele+GG600N+generator+convert+to+electric+start

It requires a 2 pole ganged breaker to meet code and guarantee the breaker is on two legs of the single split phase service. That in itself doesn't explain the 120 volts at the heater element.

Replace the two single breakers with the appropriate 2 pole ganged breaker. Before connecting the feed to the heater, turn on the ganged breaker and measure voltage across the breaker. If not 240VAC then there is a problem at the breaker panel.

If there's 240 at the breaker then you've somehow wired the thermostat incorrectly but can't imagine what you did.

This is probably close enough. You planned maintenance will also need a full carburettor strip down and clean. count the turns on jetting screws. Screw IN and count the turns to a gentle stop say 2 1/4 turns, then remove and clean with carburettor spray. The float valve in the bottom is likely to be glued shut. https://www.baldor.com/Shared/manuals/2412-404.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=%22Powerchief%22+6500+CL+manual ..

It may be possible but parts alone would make it cost prohibitive.

It would require a flywheel, alternator, rectifier, starter, battery, ignition switch, cables, and misc. plus labor.

There is a board that controls that where the outlets ect is located at

Normally there is a protection fuse between the low voltage charge winding and the regulator, that may be blown if the battery voltage does not hovver at about 13.8 volts when running otherwise the regulator itself may be faulty. A standard small battery charger runnibg off the power will keep you going until it is repaired.

cookers usually use a thermal fuse close to the heating element fuses range from 150c to 190c.once you find the fuse check it with an ohmeter it should have continuty. the thermal value should be printed on the fuse.

Likely a motor capacitor is failing causing excess current (heat) in the motor windings. Does the motor get hot?

OR, a poor connection in the motor start or run circuit either at the centrifugal switch or the capacitors. A loose connection may overheat and emit a burnt resin odor.

Regardless, you'll want to fix it ASAP as it will likely only get worse resulting in higher repair cost.

check out put with meter or tester - check connections and ground --check line for break or debris

TRY THE MANUFACTURER

When you say breaker, presumably you refer to an RCD? The residual current device will trip if the amount of current in the hot wire does not equal the amount of current in the neutral or return wire. This means some current is leaking away which means the chainsaws might have developed a potentially dangerous fault or might just be the result of an excess of damp sawdust entering the motor housing through the vents - or damp has entered the tools by other means. I find a compressed airline useful for keeping power tools internally clean and dry.

You need to use rated breaker and did you find a fault for why the breaker shorted?