Winter Sports - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Torn rubber manifold or loose hose clamps

The check engine lights up - the piston will die soon. Will help 300 grams of oil in a full tank

here's a website that has all this information about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few .. let me know if u need help thanks

The needle and seat in the carbs or one of the carbs Float arms are probably bent, kinked to one side or could be defective, your needle and position may be varnished from ethanol fuel and not sealing or other contamination in the carburetor. Try removing and cleaning but don't remove the float pin unless you know what you're doing, im a diesel tech and its easy for me, I've seen other mechanics break them or lose the spring under it. Be gentle if you do and keep the float depressed until the pin is out and then let it up slowly. The carbs, all or one of them don't shut off fuel as they should, and the negative vacuum from the DPM pulls fuel into it, and it leaks too. The purpose of a needle and seat is to shut off fuel when the float rises, its a complex build of a simple function. If you know how to rebuild a carb, then I would recommend pulling the flute and venturi. The pipe and venturi above the needle valve can get green corrosion on it plugging its holes, and it will not even let air through. This is caused by using ethanol fuel and not draining the carbs and tank during the summer. Ethanol fuel has a high water absorption level; non-ethanol fuel does not. This carries moisture to the carb and brass components in it. They tarnish and clog. Ethanol sucks, switch to premium non-ethanol or straight gasoline high octane, use a fuel stabilizer if you don't. seafoam works excellent on cleaning out the engine, don't use too much as it can burn rings over time. We used to use +104 in our sleds, but that was when gas was $1.00 a gallon in high school. Follow the directions and clean it out. During assembly watch to ensure you are putting the float bowl on correctly as I have to see the edge push the side of the float ear up and bend the pin which causes the float not to rise completely and never shut off fuel, there is a video on YouTube for this but I can't seem to find it at the moment because I don't remember what I specifically searched for.

Are you sure reverse isn't locking up the engine?

You have a bad coil or wire.

You should be able to get a downloadable pdf from articat website or your nearest dealer can sell or provide you with one

carb needs cleaning work

Check that all of the pulley wheels and tensioner don't have any defects in the running faces.

https://www.google.com.ph/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enPH824PH824&biw=1094&bih=474&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=I0IIXNCkOs-JoASf8ZjICQ&q=wiring+diagram+1993+ski+doo+safari+rally&oq=wiring+diagram+1993+ski+doo+safari+rally&gs_l=img.12...528978.528978..530722...0.0..0.85.85.1......1....1j2..gws-wiz-img.vZZXUDyBa6A

Drain plug for what?

https://www.numsa.org.za/about/ https://www.numsa.org.za/about

Hello, Bernadette -Curling . . . where?Depending upon where you reside, the curling season can run from August through May (Northern Hemisphere.)Best wishes.

you can buy cheap jerseys from nhlhome

Try some of these answers: Reverse Won Work Try This and this at the same Site: Reverse Button Issues Different than not wanting to shift Hope this helps! Have FUN! Anthony

indicates a broken wire at the steering head and any movement is breaking contact

More than likely to is the bearings on the front drive that are out, that would be why the track came loose in the first place.

Clutches can be easily disassembled using the proper puller and spider removal tool, you will also need a holding fixture as the spider can be very tight.

You will get engine specs from the engine tag serial number does not provide this.

No too old