I replaced the drain motor since when using the manual function test it didn't drain and the pump was silent. After I changed the pump but before I put the dishwasher back in the cabinet I tested the drain and I heard it working. Now it is back in the cabinet and not draining and the pump isn't making any noise when tested. What could be causing this?

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?
Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation
Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1.
4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5.
5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. See Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.
7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/6_919202_A.PDF

Hello

It is quite common for a dishwasher to not drain because either the drain hose or the air gap (if the unit has one) is clogged up. Drain hose clogs commonly occur where the hose is attached to the main household drain line, or where the hose connects with the garbage disposer. Try removing the drain hose to unclog any debris. Don't forget to reattach the hose before you start your dishwasher again.

The pump assembly is comprised of a pump, wash impeller, and drain impeller. The pump ejects the water from the unit, the wash impeller pushes water through the spray arm, and the drain impeller directs the water towards the drain port. Examine your dishwasher's pump assembly. Clean out any debris that may be blocking it. Replace the pump assembly if any of its parts appear to be worn or defective.

It isn't very common, but sometimes a dishwasher's pump assembly is driven by a belt. If that belt becomes worn and defective, then it cannot properly run the pump that drains your dishwasher's tub. If your dishwasher uses a drive belt, examine it now. If it shows signs of wear, replace it.

A defective timer could interfere with a dishwasher's ability to drain properly. Test your dishwasher's timer mechanism. If it is faulty, replace it. Keep in mind that you can replace either the entire timer assembly or just the timer's motor.

The motor plays a key role in a dishwasher's ability to drain water. If your dishwasher's motor is not functioning properly, it will negatively affect the draining capability of your machine. Test your dishwasher's motor for continuity. If it fails the test, replace the motor.

In some models, a valve has to open in order for the water to drain out of the dishwasher. This valve is controlled by a solenoid, but it is the timer that decides when the valve should open. If your timer is working fine, check the drain valve and its solenoid. If need be, replace them.

Yes you need a new control board. The fact that the motor and impeller was damaged and loosened. You should try taking your Washer in for maintenance check or call the repair man.

Hello, Following things should be checked properly to see what actually the matter is.
1)Drain Hose It is quite common for a dishwasher to not drain because either the drain hose or the air gap (if the unit has one) is clogged up. Drain hose clogs commonly occur where the hose is attached to the main household drain line, or where the hose connects with the garbage disposer. Try removing the drain hose to unclog any debris. Don't forget to reattach the hose before you start your dishwasher again. 2)Pump Assembly The pump assembly is comprised of a pump, wash impeller, and drain impeller. The pump ejects the water from the unit, the wash impeller pushes water through the spray arm, and the drain impeller directs the water towards the drain port. Examine your dishwasher's pump assembly. Clean out any debris that may be blocking it. Replace the pump assembly if any of its parts appear to be worn or defective. Belt It isn't very common, but sometimes a dishwasher's pump assembly is driven by a belt. If that belt becomes worn and defective, then it cannot properly run the pump that drains your dishwasher's tub. If your dishwasher uses a drive belt, examine it now. If it shows signs of wear, replace it. 3)Timer A defective timer could interfere with a dishwasher's ability to drain properly. Test your dishwasher's timer mechanism. If it is faulty, replace it. Keep in mind that you can replace either the entire timer assembly or just the timer's motor. 4)Motor The motor plays a key role in a dishwasher's ability to drain water. If your dishwasher's motor is not functioning properly, it will negatively affect the draining capability of your machine. Test your dishwasher's motor for continuity. If it fails the test, replace the motor. 5)Drain Valve and/or Solenoid
In some models, a valve has to open in order for the water to drain out of the dishwasher. This valve is controlled by a solenoid, but it is the timer that decides when the valve should open. If your timer is working fine, check the drain valve and its solenoid. If need be, replace them. Thanks

FL Flood Condition FL flashes if any overfill condition occurs. This condition occurs when excessive water in the tub causes the overfill switch to trip. The control must realize that the trip was due to an overfill condition instead of a suds lack condition in order for FL to be displayed

With an overfill condition, the beeper repeats a warning every 10 seconds with no time-out. The pump is cycled in drain mode for 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off until the overfill switch resets or power is discontinued to the unit.

Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display.

DL = Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?
Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1.
4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5.
5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. See Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.
7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
My response is very long and will be in 2 parts this is PART 1

Here is what the service manual says about Ld:

"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain

water from the wash tub)

Check the following:

Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?

Is the drain hose installed properly? See

"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Also:

Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of

the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)

above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)

a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet

and outlet drain hoses off the pump.

Note that there is a tab on the outlet

connector that fits into a slot in the

hose.

b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head

screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:

-Disconnect the wire connector from the

drain pump terminals.

- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.

- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each

of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.

----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --

From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:

Long Drain

Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.

• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?

• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?

• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.

TEST 7

TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation

Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.

1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test

Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps

test.

2. Remove the console to access the machine/

motor control assembly. See Accessing

& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.

3. Visually check that the P4 connector is

inserted all the way into the machine/motor

control.

If visual check passes, go to step 4.

If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and

repeat step 1.

4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.

If resistance values are good, go to step 7.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem

exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor

control and the motor. Go to step 5.

5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom

of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and

take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.

If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the

pump motor.

If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/

motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.

If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check

the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.

7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.

8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:

Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps. 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.

Long Drain Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on. • Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged? • Is the drain hose height greater than 96˝ ? • Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate. 1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies. 3. Visually check that the P4 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1. If resistance values are good, go to step 7. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor control and the motor. Go to step 5. 5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the pumps 6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram. If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the pump motor. If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/ motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness. If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump. 7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test. 8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Manual: Pump test.