I have an ungrounded outlet. There is no easy way to ground it conventionally. Close by is a grounded outlet on another circuit. Can I jump a ground wire from the grounded outlet to the ungrounded outlet? Is that approach within code?

no GFI age,maker or model told... (some have evolved.)
as do some on other countries, NONE TOLD so, generic answers you WIN>? (gin)
no, only it and the drownstream jacks.(if wired as gfi extensions)
or if the home as a bad green wire ground sure.
call and electrician and fix it.
or test all things on the circuit 1 by one on the main GFI outlet
see what appliance trips it 1 by one, all other not connect.
easy no? IDK what you have there so , can only say simple tests.

on good circuits, ground and neutral most not go to differential volts.

some gfi can tip if 2 thing fault
if normal line current is exceed on neutral line it trip\
think water in a hand hair dryer ,oops
and some can see green wire leakage too and is not allowed./
if the energy used by the load is the same as the outlet power input
that is good , if not , it fails. (means and ******* power leaks is present and super dangerous to humans or even pets)
I like this drawing (amazing quality ) here.

https://www.westernautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/GFCIs_For_AC_DC_Systems.pdf

in my USA home my 200AMP load center is huge jumpered
Neutral to earth ground and again at the curb transformer.
and my 2 deep 16ft ground stakes and one more on a huge ANTENNA.base, and all are cross tied, I take grounds serious.
so if earth ground is bad. that a first order never ignore error.
fully unsafe.
earth ground keeps my washing machine safe.as will GFI , and double safe.
also GFI breakers too are sold and even better.
the beauty of it , it trips if line leakage to human body is to neural or to earth ground (bare feet in puddle of water ) both.

is uses an Imbalance ,detector to do that, lives saved is huge.
best is as electrician to do a ground load test.
this test assures ground and neutral have tight and good bond.

nice schematic no> super simple to see now it works.

It is rather unusual to have voltage riding on the casing of a device, but it is not unheard of. Some manufacturers use the case of a device as its return, or ground. My opinion is that if there was a serious issue, such a a short causing the voltage, once you connected the unit to a grounded outlet, you would have most likely tripped the circuit breaker. Unless you know of damaged wiring, or possible get a smell of burnt plastic, I would not be concerned as since you are now connected to a grounded outlet, if any real electrical problem occurs, the breaker should handle the issue.

As far as is there 100 volts flowing to ground, yes there is. But remember this, voltage is not what costs money, current is. The voltage you felt when the unit was ungrounded was probably of a very low current or you could have been seriously injured. Almost all devices today have circuits in them that are energized at all times, such as timers, control board, and such. Thus, I would not expect your power bill to skyrocket as a result of this.

Check the plug that goes into the outlet. On modern plugs, one prong is taller than the other. The taller is the "ground" leg - the other is the "hot" leg. I bet that you just need to flip the plug over so that the other prong is in the "ground". If this works - mark the "ground" leg (or replace the plug with a newer one that has a taller "ground" leg).

Hi heshamyg, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you.
Since I could not find the electrical specs for your particular model in the user's guide, please locate the information tag (plate or decal) and tell me what the wattage and amperage ratings are.
Page 5 of your user's manual recommends that your microwave should be used on a 15 or 20 amp circuit And that a "separate circuit servicing only this appliance be provided."
I don't know if this appliance is a new install to your kitchen appliance array, or if this unit has been around and in use for awhile without any problems.
Either way, the electrical circuit is being overloaded; short circuited; or because of a ground fault.

An overloaded circuit is one primary reason for a breaker to trip. It occurs when a circuit has more connected electrical load than it is supposed to have. When more current runs through the circuit than the circuit was intended to take, the circuit breaker is designed to "break the circuit." It does so to prevent overheating of the wire in the circuit, which can cause a fire.

• The most probable reason the breaker tripped is that you simply have too much plugged into one outlet or multiple outlets connected to one circuit.
• Move lamps, heaters, irons, hair dryers and other heavy power consuming devices to a different circuit not being heavily used; or
• Turn off some of the devices on the circuit to reduce the load.
• Loose connections are another possible but less common cause. With power off, check outlets for a loose wire and the electrical service panel hot wire connected to the circuit breaker to see if it has become loose. Re-tighten the connections if necessary.
• If these suggestions do not solve the problem you may have a more serious problem such as a Short Circuit or Ground Fault

The Short Circuit is a more serious reason for a breaker to trip. A short is caused when the hot wire (black) touches another hot wire or touches a neutral wire (white). It can also be caused if there is a break in a wire in the circuit. Shorts are a bit more difficult to diagnose because they can be caused by the wiring in your home or in something you have plugged into an outlet.

• Confirm that the power is off at the outlet into which your device is plugged.
• Inspect your power cords for damage or a melted appearance.
• Check your outlets and plugs for the smell of burning- or look to see if there is any visible brown or black discoloration.
• Check the insulation on the wires to make sure that they are not cracked; and that bare (uninsulated) black and white wires aren't touching together.
• If you do not find the problem, repeat the process for all the outlets in the circuit.
• Check for a Ground Fault condition.

A Ground Fault Condition is defined as: An unintentional, electrically conducting connection between an ungrounded conductor of an electrical circuit and the normally non-current-carrying conductors, metallic enclosures, metallic raceways, metallic equipment or earth.
In simpler terms, a ground fault condition exists when the hot wire (black) touches the ground wire (bare copper) or the side of a metal outlet box (because the metal box is connected to the ground wire). The ground fault is a type of short circuit.

The fix is the same as a short circuit except check that the hot wire (black ) is not touching the side of the metal outlet box or the ground wire.

If the problem is internal to the microwave oven, have it serviced by a properly trained service technician since one could expose themselves to dangerous levels of microwave energy.

Please keep me posted. Thank-you.

While a lot of people have replaced a lot of 2 prong ungrounded outlets with 3 prong outlets, as you probably know, it is an unsafe practice. The National Electric Code (NEC) permitted method is to replace the 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong GFCI outlet such as this:
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Outlets-Plugs-Outlets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg4Zbp9i/R-202026815/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

For multiple outlets, the usual practice is to install the GFCI outlet at the first outlet in the circuit, then regular 3 prong outlets can be used to replace 2 prong outlets in all the downstream outlet locations as long as the "no equipment ground" stickers that come with the GFCI outlet are used and they are now GFCI protected outlets, per NEC.

Finding the first outlet in the circuit is not always easy. First, determine which outlets are on the circuit, then starting with the outlet closest to the electric panel, disconnect the wires and see if all the other outlets went out. It's kind of trial and error.

Once you have found that first outlet in the circuit, connect the hot wires coming from the electric panel to the LINE terminals of the GFCI and the wires going to the downstream oulets to the LOAD terminals of the GFCI. Full instructions come with the GFCI outlet.
The GFCI receptacles sold today won't work if connected incorrectly, so you will soon know if you did it wrong.
Once the GFCI outlet is installed at the first outlet, all of the downstream 2 prong outlets can be replaced with 3 prong outlets, using the stickers mentioned above to indicate that the outlets are not grounded.
Strange as it sounds, all downstream outlets _must_ be ungrounded when using this method.

NEVER, put the green ground wire under the same screw or fastener as the white (neutral) wire! It is not Code and the reason is that if the connection becomes loose or gets burned off, you would have an ungrounded 220V-AC circuit that would use YOU or someone else as the path to clear any ground fault situation.

The correct way is to mount a separate Grounding termination with either the factory green gronding screw (if provided) or by drilling and tapping a hole next to the power terminals, (away from them so as not to make accidential contact) and install a green grounding screw for the cord set's ground wire.

Any other advice is dangerous and can lead to electrocution, injury and death!

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

If ever an energy pike occurs, it would most likely damage the TV for sure. A grounded outlet helps divert power surges to the ground. Sometimes grounded outlets can only handle so much overload, but never 100% guarantee.

Best protection for a flat-screen is a really good surge protector bar. The best ones cost about $100 - $150. Repairing a TV damaged from a power spike would cost about $400 - $600 from a TV repair shop. So, protecting the TV is a good idea considering the cost of repair.

4 wire recepticals are used for 220 Volt appliances, there should be 2 hot (117V to ground) and one each Grounding and grounded (read neutral) conductors) Breaker or disconnect should be 2 pole for 220 Volt circuit. A 20 Amp 110/117 Volt circuit would have a single pole breaker or disconnect, one "hot" conductor(should be black or colored , not green or white), one neutral conductor (should be white or neutral with white stripe) and an equipment grounding conductor (should be green or bare copper). It sounds to me like your receptical was wired for 220 V using whatever colored wires were handy. Back up to breaker or fuse (disconnect), and shut off circuit. New 117 Volt outlet will be wired with Black to Brass colored screw (short slot on face), One White wire will be used for Neutral conductor (make sure you know which one it is at the breaker panel) and one of the other white wires may (but shouldent be) used for ground (use green marker to identify it at each end),The third white wire should be removed if you can, otherwise cap with wire nut at each end and coil up in back of boxes. At the breaker/ fuse panel, the Black wire is connected to the breaker (It will be your "hot" lead), The white being used for the Neutral is connected to the neutral buss bar with the other Neutrals, and the green goes to the grounding buss bar (should have other green or bare copper wires. Once all is properly connected and secured but without the disposal plugged in, turn on the power and check for leaking smoke (smoke here is a bad thing) The fuse or breaker should protect your wires and help keep that smoke inside the boxes. Check voltages at the new plug, 117 V accross Short and longer slot, 117 from short to ground (round) and 0 or close to it from long (Neutral) to ground. If voltages check, plug in the new appliance and test.
If in doubt about what you have, dont hesitate to contact an electrician, they get paid for their knowledge and experiance and their ability to keep that nasty smoke inside the boxes.
Good Luck.,

You might be plugging it into an ungrounded outlet. Or if you are plugging it into an outlet that has a ground fault interrupter, and it is THAT that is throwing, then you have a short somewhere.

The problem is if you do not ground out your unit and it shorts out, it will blow every last part in your system and you will be buying a new part. Also there is a risk of electrical shock. Now to be honest with you. I do not run my window unit on a grounded outlet. But the plug itself has a fuse