Stripped shaft threads, or lock catch - Dremel Variable - Speed Multipro Rotary Tool 395

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Un-Used-Stihl-KM-Kombi-Power-Unit-Driveshaft-Clamp-Tommy-Screw-T-Bolt-and-Nut-/322089323385

Give these ones a try.. But NOTE; There is no need to tighten these up that tight.! There is no way that you should have to tighten them up enough to strip the thread.. its holding on an extension shaft together, its not having to hold the weight of a vehicle.

Possibly the lever's locking bolt thread has stripped or the thread on the bolt is worn. Another aspect is the splines in the lever are shot and/or the splines on the gear change shaft are badly worn. Remove lever and check the splines on both shaft and lever also check around the lever fixing section for any cracks. Check the threaded section of the lever with a brand new bolt the bolt should be easy to turn in and out by finger and should have no side to side play. When refitting the existing lever or a new one make sure the lever is a good fit on the gearbox shaft splines before you tighten the bolt.

look up under the pedal assemble as i think either the trim is catching or the pedal shaft is worn if it is then lower the brake light switch towards the pedal on its bracket ,think these just have a thread and lock nut to compensate for the wear

sounds like the top thread is under too much tension, check the threading trail from the spool to the needle for anything not threaded correctly or snagging the thread. Do you have an aerial arm to take the thread through above the thread spool, and if so, is it extended? Is the thread catching on the thread spool label or some part of the spool as its coming off, they often have a little nick to catch the loose thread end and if the thread catches in this during sewing the thread will snap. Now check the tension discs, turn to zero and clean between the discs by running the edge of a piece of waste thread through them. Now rethread, set tension to the normal number you are used to and try again.

Is your needle in the right way, flat shank to the back. Change to new needle and try again.

If thread is still breaking, I'd visit a serviceman.

best bet would be to replace the sensor if its threads are stripped.

1966 Olds 98?
It's been a while, so bear with me. The main objective is to remove the steering wheel, to have access to the turn signal switch.

1.Negative battery cable disconnected

2.I believe you twist the horn button in the middle of the steering wheel, and pull up, to remove. The horn button should have a ring of thick rubber on the bottom, which keeps it in the steering wheel. The chrome piece under the horn button may come off with it, or it stays on the steering wheel. This is the part that is fuzzy to remember.

3.Remove the steering wheel nut, and lock washer.

4.If you do not have a steering wheel puller, go to your nearest auto parts store, and see if one is available to rent. The cost of this puller is relatively low, so you may just want to go ahead, and purchase one. While you're there you need to obtain another tool also. Steering Wheel Lock Plate Tool.

5.After the horn button is removed, and the steering wheel nut, you will see a flat metal area of the steering wheel. On each side of the threaded part of the steering column shaft, there are two small threaded holes, in this flat metal area.

The steering wheel puller, is a bar shaped piece of metal, that has a threaded hole in the middle. There is a threaded shaft that goes into this hole. On each end of the metal bar are slots. Threaded bolts go through these slots, and line up with the two threaded holes in the steering wheel. There is a pointed tip, that rotates on the threaded shaft, of the steering wheel puller. This pointed tip goes in the middle of the steering wheel shaft. (The shaft that you removed the nut from)

Find the two correct threaded bolts in the steering wheel puller kit, that matches the threads in the steering wheel holes. They HAVE to be the correct size, AND the correct thread. (Fine thread, or Coarse thread. They will be SAE thread, and not Metric) If the puller does not come with bolts, or the correct bolts, you'll have to purchase them separately.

Place the puller on top of the steering wheel shaft. Run the threaded shaft of the puller down, until at least 3 to 4 threads of the shaft, are showing on the steering wheel side. Now place a threaded bolt in the slot on the outside part of the bar.

Run the bolt down into the steering wheel threaded hole on one side. Make sure it goes in at least 1/2 inch. Do the same with the threaded bolt for the other side.
Adjust the length of the threaded shaft of the puller, so that the two outside bolts will go in as advised. Adjust the threaded shaft out, or in. Be SURE the two threaded bolts, are threaded down into the steering wheel the same depth, and the bolts are the same length!

Now turn the threaded shaft of the steering wheel puller in, with a ratchet and socket, to remove the steering wheel. (Turn the shaft to the Right)

6.Now remove the steering wheel lock ring. The steering wheel lock ring tool is now used.
There is a cylindrical shaped piece that has threads on the inside of it, and has a hole at the top, that a lock pin slides through, for the above tool. This cylindrical shaped piece is threaded down onto the steering wheel shaft.

The tool has a handle shaped like a screwdriver handle, and a shaft attached to the handle. The shaft goes down into the cylindrical shaped piece. Then the lock pin goes through the cylindrical shaped piece, and also a hole in the shaft of the tool. This lock pin locks the cylindrical shaped piece to the shaft of the tool.

BEFORE the cylindrical shaped piece is pinned to the shaft, you slide a U shaped piece up on the shaft. (Thought it would be better to explain it this way)
The opening of the U, goes down towards the steering wheel. It's U shaped to clear the steering wheel shaft.

As you turn the handle of the tool to the right, it pushes the U shaped piece down. The U shaped piece then depresses the steering wheel lock ring down.
(There is a Thick metal spring under the steering wheel lock ring)

You have to take a metal pick, and a small flat tip screwdriver, and remove the round snap ring. May take a little finesse, and a few tries. Use patience. Now back the steering wheel lock ring tool off. (Turn to the Left) The steering wheel lock ring will come up, so that you can take it off. Remove the spring. Remove the plastic horn contact assembly. Now you can see the screws to remove the turn signal switch.

the collet is either the wrong size for the shaft on the attachment or is missing alltogether

readjust the hook to just grab the thread loop as the needle raises it will take a few tries to get the exact setting for the hook (maybe you will see a mark on the hook shaft to show you where the hook's set screw was located before it slipped)

The shaft threads seemed to be stripped and you may have to get a set of Torx bits or if not then one bit for the torx screws to take them off. If the threads are stripped on the shaft then you may have to replace it.
Ken S.

If the threads are not stripped on the knob or shaft, just screw it on clock-wise.
If the threads are stripped on the shaft, it must be replaced, same with knob.
To replace the shaft (if the knob is off) just pull it down in the film compartment. now there is a spring to hold the shaft up or down if the new shaft has a beveled shoulder just turn the shaft while pushing it back up. If no beveled shoulder is on the shaft then with a long needle or pin hold the spring back while pushing the shaft back up. Don't bend the spring. just move it out of the way.