I have grasshog and the line tied around the inner housing of the weed cutter. What can I do to get it removed?

easier to remove the line spool and head to get the debris out

There are 2 models one has a extendable handle these are both Grasshogs, if i was told incorrectly please contact me. Thank you
12" 18V Cordless Trimmer and Edger MODEL # NST2118 Page 10 http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/90559891,NST2118.pdf

18V Cordless Trimmer and Edger MODEL # NST2018 http://servicenet.blackanddecker.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/90509965,NST2018.pdf

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

To replace the boot first you have to remove the outer tie rod end form the spindle asembly. You will need a pair of wire cutters to grab the cotter pin that holds the nut in place. After the nut is removed whack the spindle where the tie rod goes into it with a ball peen hammer and the tie rod end will pop right out. Do not hit the tie rod end on the threads or you will have to buy a new one. Now you have to seperate the outer and inner tie rod ends. There is a nut holding the two tightly in place and a notch in the inner tie rod end to put a wrench on so the inner will not spin when you spin off the outer tie rod end. Mark the threads before removal so you can put it back where it was adjusted before. Loosen the nut and spin off the tie rod end. Now for the boot. There are two clamps on the boot you need to remove a small clamp and a large clamp. With the wire cutters grab these clamps and wrok them off. The new boot will come with new clamps. Always replace the clamps. Now just slide the boot off. You will need to remove the lock nut to change the boot so make sure you mark the threads on the inside so you do not wipe the mark off when you remove the nut. Now just reverse the process to reassemble. Be sure to put it back where it was adjusted before. Make sure to use a new cotter pin. When you reinstall the nut back on the outer tie rod end it is important to tighten it about one turn past snug and line up the cotter pin hole by tightening the nut do not back off the nut to align the cotter pin or it will come loose and ruin the spindle. Not that was not so hard was it. Thanks for visiting the site.

Your operators manual can show and explain this quite well. See diagrams 11, 12,13 & 24
http://www.blackanddeckerservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/90524916,GH700%20GH750.pdf

It is listed as part number 22 on this website page:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/black-and-decker-nst2018-type-volt-cordless-grasshog-trimmer-edger-parts-c-4167_9518_7847.html

You will need to rent or borrow in inner tie rod tool but here are the directions.
1. Break the jam nut on inner tie rod to outer loose.
2. Remove nut from outer tie rod attaching it to steering knuckle.
3. Use hammer to get tie rod out of knuckle.
4. Unscrew outer tie rod then jam nut
5. Remove clamp from boot and slide off inner tie rod.
6. Using side cutter or hammer and chisel break off metal clamp on the inside of inner tie rod boot.
7. Using inner tie rod tool, unscrew inner tie rod from rack and pinion
8. Reinstall parts and have it aligned

You have missed a screw about half way, there is one under a sticker.

First, remove the recoil assembly but dont disassemble!
You'll need about 3 1/2 ft. of the same size rope. Tie a knot into one end of the rope. While holding the pulley in place observe the direction the pulley moves when rope is pulled. Release pulley and cut and remove old rope. Continue winding pulley in direction rope would pull it. Do no wind too tight. Line up holes in recoil housing and pulley then push rope through pulley and out housing. Tie on handle and install recall in reverse order.

Its quite a job to get to the starter, you need to remove the tube and shaft from the motor, then remove the tube housing held with three screws, once removed you will find the clutch, remove the securing nut clutch and washer, now remove the screws holding the clutch housing and remove, the starter pulley is housed in this housing.