F&P E522B fridge started beeping last night. Fresh food temp thermometer display is blank when the door is opened.

I have a recurring problem with a GE Profile PSB48LSRABV. Here's an example sequence:

• Fresh food compartment set to 37F on the control panel (for months)
• Thermometer in fridge reads 46F (with lots of water inside per manual)
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 37F
• Turn power off, count to 15, turn power on, wait for control panel to boot
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 46F (matches thermometer!)
• Compressor runs and cools fresh food compartment
• Hours later thermometer in fridge reads 37-38 (yeah!)
• Press "Display Temp" button shows fridge at 37F
• Within days, the fridge is warmer inside again, thermometer inside reads 45+, but display reads 37 - unit needs to be "rebooted" again!

Fresh food thermistor from top of cabinet measured properly in ice water (and warmer water), the unit has always passed all the self-tests, and condensor coils and fan are clean, so I had techs come give it a shot under home warranty:

• Trip 1 - Tech came to assess, ordered new evaporator fan
• Trip 2 - Replaced fresh food evaporator fan (note new fan is working in fridge, and old fan works fine on bench)
• Trip 3 - Ordered main computer PCBA
• Trip 4 - Replaced main computer PCBA

Unfortunately, it continues the same cycle of misreading the temperature until power cycles, and taking a day off of work for each visit is getting painful.
Any ideas?

If your refrigerator has 2 controls, the start setting is usually at mid point on both dials. That should give you a freezer temp close to 0 and a fresh food temp of 38 to 42 degrees. If only one control---same middle setting should produce about the same inside temps. Fresh food temp is best measures if you can put thermometer in a glass of water to stabilize the temp.

there is a little door between the freezer and the fresh food usually when that happens the motor on that door is bad and sticks open and allows the fresh food to get to cold since your freezer actually cools the fresh food side, sorry i cant tell you where it is on yours since they are are different, it will be where the cold air blows in the fresh food side and the part is not usually expensive and fairly easy to replace.

Most fridge manufacturer's suggest 34 degrees F (but no lower) for the fresh food compartment, and 0 degrees F (lower is O.K.) for the freezer.

Measure temperature on the fresh food compartment by placing a thermometer in a 6 - 8 ounce glass filled with cold water. Place the glass with the thermometer on a shelf in the fridge. Wait about an hour or two (assuming the door stays shut) and check temperature. The water is to minimize changes shown on the thermometer when you open the fridge door.

I hope this helps & good luck! Please rate my reply. Thank you.

Sheryl -

Most manufacturer's suggest 0 deg F for the freezer, and 34 deg F for fresh food compartment. You determine the fresh food temperature by filling a 6 to 8 oz glass with cold water and placing a thermometer (capable of reading 32 deg F) in the water. Place the glass & thermometer on a shelf in the fridge. Allow it to assume the temperature on the fridge and hour or so. The glass of water is to minimize rapid increase in temperatures seen when the door opens.

Make your adjustments from there. Allow temperatures to stabilize for up to 24 hours if the fridge is full, much less if empty before making additional changes.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thank you.

Generic instructions to set temperatures in fridges:

Many manufacturers design these appliances to operate at 0 degrees F in the freezer and 34 to 36 degrees F in the fresh food compartment.

To set the temperature correctly, fill a glass with water (8 to 12 ounces) and place a thermometer capable of indicating 32 degrees and up into the glass with water (if the temperature goes below 32 degrees, the water will freeze - so no need to find a thermometer that indicates any lower). Place the glass with the thermometer in it on a shelf and wait. Putting the thermometer in a glass of water helps preserve the temperature reading while the door is open. You can skip the water and glass if you want - but you'll need to read the temperature as soon as you open the door.

The freezer will require a thermometer capable of displaying 0 degrees F. Place it on a shelf where it can be seen readily - but preferably in the rear - between items (to prevent the warm air from driving the indicator up when opening the door to read it).

It will probably be easier to set the freezer temperature first. Adjust both the freezer and fresh food thermostats to mid-points (if the fridge is empty - otherwise skip this step). Adjust the freezer thermostat up or down as needed to reach the desired 0 degree F temperature.

Once the freezer adjustments are complete, adjust the fresh food compartment thermostat as needed up or down to reach the desired temperature for it.

If you fridge is fully stocked, it may take some time for the temperature to stabilize and warm / cool the fridge's contents completely. This is further affected by how often the door(s) are opened and for how long. 24 hours is often claimed - but you might be able to sneak an 8 - 12 hour soak before reading the thermometers.

After the temperatures are set, you may find that the lower part of the fresh food area is partially freezing - simply adjust the thermometer up *slightly* as needed.

Please rate this reply if it was helpful - good luck!

If your reading the display temp , your reading what the thermistors are telling the control board . NOT the actual temp inside . After closing the door , from the food that was already cold in the fridge , the coldness will keep the inside temp , the same temp as when you opened the door . The thermistors themselves will detect the warmness and send it to the board . A good way to try to put this acrsoo , is to put a thermometer between , say , 2 packages of salads . Wait a little while and open the door . Watch the display temp , then read the thermometer between the packages . The thermometer will stay the same , due to the coldness of the packages not changing . When you put food in the ref , the surrounding food will give off some of the coldness to the freshly installed food , thereby makeing it cold faster . After a while , this coldness will return to the thermistors and the display will start to drop in temp . Hard for me to put into words , except for , the temp reading will actaully be the same as the actual temp display , only when you FIRST open the door .

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me,the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signaled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week).Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bought a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Hi,
Shut down the fridge for 10 - 15 Minutes and leave the fridge door open, and push the Defroce button
ANd start the fridge again and after some time check the temp.+ after some time.

Thanking you,
Your Tech Support
Manish Shirsikar,
Fixya.com