All electric house with sump pumps that will overflow in a planned power outage, who will be responsible?

I imagine you asked the plumber why the pump is running continuously and he replied as you said but what he simply meant was, because water is in the sump. I'll address pump switch failure later.

So the question should be why is water continually entering the sump. It could be because the water table level is high but its been my experience a sump pump runs nonstop because water expelled by the pump is flowing directly back into the sump.

Have you asked neighbors if their pumps run nonstop? Do you have continuous standing water around your home?

If you don't have standing water around your home and your neighbors dont have the problem with their sump pumps running nonstop then the most likely cause is the pump outlet is flowing back into the sump. In other words, its continuously recirculating the same water.

Here's how I"ve diagnosed this issue in the past. Install a temporary 1 1/2 inch pvc line to discharge the pump outlet on the ground a minimum 20 feet from the house foundation on ground with a downward slope. This gets the pump outlet far enough away from the house that water should not re-enter the house sump. If your pump then cycles normally, you know the problem is because water from the pump outlet is reentering the sump. Then it's a matter of determining why the original pump outlet is flowing back into the sump.

As for pump failures... most sump pumps are not designed for continous duty and the switches are of marginal quality. I alleviated the switch issue by zip tying the switch float of the pump up so it is always on and installed a seperate sump float switch that will last longer than the original.

If d electrical outlet not cover by water it OK..but if it is cover with water u can get electrocuted.

GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

Guide a piece of flexible airline tubing up to the top inside and suck the air out. You might not be able to get it all, but getting most of it should work. A decent amount of water flow once the system is turned on will usually remove the little bubble you might not have been able to get out.
Be aware that u-tubes are not fool proof. If the siphon breaks during a power outage, which will usually happen when you aren't home if you are a salt water aquarium keeper, when the power comes back on your pump empties your sump, probably over flows the tank, and then the pump runs dry and burns out or seizes/melts.
I would definitely consider a re-design of drilling a hole in your tank at the surface, especially if it is acrylic, cautiously and very slowly if it is glass, or redesigning the overflow system so it has a long enough u-tube and deep enough reservoir so it can not possibly empty during a power outage.

What is the age of the unit? Those batteries don't last forever and are constantly under a small charge. When the outage happened the battery discharged and the sensing circuit was able to tell that the battery was no longer any good.

Hi dear.If you are handy enough,that's what you can check to make a solution for yourself.Goodluck.
Check all hoses, connections and threaded unions for leaks.
Note:
If the leak source has not yet been detected, check the following areas
in the toekick and the drip pan for wear and tear:
�� Connection between the circulation pump and the sump
�� Axial face seal of the circulation pump
�� Connection between the drain pump and the sump
�� Connection between the salt container and the water intake
�� Connection between the water intake and the cabinet side wall
�� Overflow (e.g., excess foam formation)
�� Water level between the overflows (�� seating of the lower door seal?)
�� Connection between the cabinet and the salt container
�� Non-return valve in the sump (�� water running back from the drain hose?)
3. Check overflow float switch B8/3 for continuity and correct operation.
4. Carefully dry all electrical components in the drip pan area.
Cause:
Float switch defective.
Remedy:
Replace overflow float switch B8/3.
I hope that helps.Thanks.

I presume your pump is having a separate power supply.
It is to operate if and when there is power outage. Am
I right? Check your Shur-Dri backup pump. Plug it to
another power source, and switch it on. If it runs, then
the problem could be power supply. Have this checked
using voltage tester (multitester set at 300 volts) or you
may use an electric bulb.

Check the breaker at the panel, it could be that you have more than just your fridge on the same circuit and the breaker blew or fuse when the power came on. You should only have the fridge on a circuit, the same goes for a freezer and microwave and water pump and sump pump. Nothing else on those circuits. One appliance only.

On your sump pump, there is something called a nameplate which lists model number, serial number, manufacturer, and power requirements. The power can either be listed in watts directly, or in amps (at 120v). Also click on this web page and You will be able to figure it out. http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/usage_chart.html Hope that answers Your question.