A bra wire disappeared in my front load washer. Now I hear it between the basket and the drum, dragging around. How can I get between the two to get it out? I believe it is stuck in one place at back.

SOURCE: kenmore he2 front load washer

Open the panel with 1/4 in socket. Turn white plastic cap filter counter clockwise. remove debris. replace. Run rinse and spin cycle. reopen cap and check for any new debris. replace filter cap and put cover back on. put $65 in bank. Send note to Eddie Lampert and tell him that Sears sucks and he'll never save it as long as they keep screwing their customers by not telling them about a simple fix like like this to an obviously common problem.

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 washer

I found when mine doesn't drain there is a sock blocking the drain holes. Open the door and pull out the rubber gasket at the bottoma nd there should be around a half a dozen holes. Good luck!

SOURCE: GE Profile Harmony Top Load Washer - Won't drain

After more thought, it dawned on me another possible reason. In my case, the washer is draining water, but it keeps cycling the pump on and off, thinking that the pump isn't working properly, and the washer doesn't go into its high-speed spin to eke the last bit of water out. It dawned on me that it could be that the pump is fine, but the sensor is lying, saying there is more water when there isn't.

I looked at the tube for the sensor, and noticed a small blockage of white soft stuff. I disconnected the sensor tube from the tub (in the back), managed to squeeze the blockage out, connected it back up, and now it all works fine (about 5 loads and I haven't seen the pump message)!

So if your pump is draining water successfully, but the washer keeps complaining and refuses to go into the high-speed spin, then perhaps this is your situation as well (or a bad sensor, etc.).

Note that I'm pretty sure the blockage is what ended up ruining my first pump. The blockage matches the color and consistency of the caulk/glue that was used to attach the sensor tube, so my suspicion is that too much was put on at the factory and ended up going into the tube, but not enough to cause problems initially. After several years of use and perhaps a bit of water mineral buildup, it finally became a full clog.

Finally, note that, as you may have guessed from the design of the machine, when you disconnect the hoses at the bottom, there's always a few cups or more of water in the two black hoses and the pump that it can't manage to push all the way to the drain.

SOURCE: f-21 error, washer not draining

I have had this code three separate times. The first time service man came and cleaned out the filter. This is behind the lower front panel and can be removed by hand. The cartridge style filter is located at the pump in the lower right of the unit. Have something available to catch the draining water as you loosen the filter. The second time I received this code I found a blockage in the drain hose at its bend. The third time no hose blockage, no filter clogging, but the pump impeller was jammed by an elastic strap that had made it through the filter. I removed it through the supply side of the pump seen after filter is removed.

SOURCE: My front load washer has a load clunk when the

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description "My front load washer has a load clunk when the drum is spinning. If I spin it by hand I can still hear it. I took the back off and it sounds like coming from inside the drum" my first suspicion would be a worn tub bearing, unfortunately all too common with those Frigidaire.

The tub bearing is likely worn, or the inner tub has broken apart.

You can check this by way of opening the door and grabbing the inner basket rim and moving up and down to feel for play...there should be zero play or zero tolerance in this bearing.

Second, since you`ve removed the back panel, grab the large pulley and try and move it back and forth or spin it with the belt off to listen for a grinding noise.

If it is indeed worn it will require practically the complete tub assembly ( rear wall with bearing and inner basket )...that is the least expensive and easiest fix at around $400 for the entire assembly.

example...


You can opt to change just the rear wall and bearing with the basket in separate pieces, but it comes in around $370 and still leaves you with pulling the old one apart to re-use the front shell.

Either way this is a fairly involved repair and even for an experienced tech like myself can take 60 - 90mins.

Let me know what you find and I'll do what I can to assist you.

Good luck. Thank you for choosing FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)