When go to cut engine is runnig but chain stops when touch the tree

It sounds like the chain does want sharpening, it depends on what you are cutting ( type of timber, dirty timber,burnt timber etc ) as to how long before it needs sharpening, if the chain comes into contact with the ground below the tree it will lose its edge instantly.

Hitting the ground could just be a coincidence. Try changing the spark plug. murf427

suggest you sharpen the chain, sounds like it's dull like maybe the log you cut had been fallen on ground for awhile, this causes dirt build up in bark and acts just like cutting Dirt and we all know what that does to your chain...dulls it fast ! I learned from experience I cut an oak tree that was cut down for about 2 years when I got permission to cut it up,needless to say it had a lot of dirt in the bark! hope this helps you !

In front of the handle on top of the saw is a hand guard. If in the course of cutting wood you hit it or pushed it forward, it will lock up the chain drive system. It should pull back towards the handle until it again clicks to release the chain. It's designed to lock up the chain drive and stop the chain when the saw kicks back.

This is somewhat subjective. Eveybody does it a little different.If you are cutting limbs from a tree, start an undercut about where you want the limb to fall free of the tree. Use the upper edge of the chain to cut it about a fourth of the way through. Then start from the top of the limb over where you made the undercut.

Your problem statement seems to be chopped off, but apparently, when you go to cut something, the chain just stops turning. Assuming that is so, remove the bar and chain, then wash out the interior of the clutch mechanism with spray carburetor cleaner. Let dry and re-assemble the bar and chain. Make sure the chain is being properly oiled by running the saw at speed with bar tip near some cardboard--it should leave thin line of oil after several moments. Make sure the chain teeth cut toward you on the bottom run of chain. Hope this helps!

It may sound oversimplified but....is your chain sharp? Is the chain on backwards?

When cutting you should be getting nice big chips from the cut. If you are getting more "dust" than chips the chain is dull and needs to be resharpened.

There is no set "time" to sharpen a chain,but you will only get a few hours of cutting before the chain dulls. In soft wood like pine you can go longer. In hardwood like oak or locust you may get an hours worth of cutting. If the bar digs into the ground or hits a rock it's time to sharpen right then because the chain will be dull.

I always carry an extra chain or two just for emergencies like hitting a rock or some wire in a tree.

I'm assuming that the engine continues to run, but the chain stops moving. Remove the bar and chain. If the clutch internals are full of bar oil and other debris, try washing out the clutch with spray carburetor cleaner from an auto parts store. After it dries, inspect the shoe faces and inner drum area for excessive burning or scoring. Apply a small amount of oil to the clutch hub bearing, then reassemble the bar and chain. If the chain now cuts correctly, you are home free. If it doesn't, then the clutch will need replacement. Hope this helps!

Sawing with a chainsaw is mostly 2 part, a sharp chain and good technique.

If your bar is straight, your chain is razor sharp and the oil reservoir full then it boils down to technique.

You cannot run a chainsaw through horizontally on a big tree, what will happen is half the time the tree's weight will begin to collapse upon the bar and pinch it in the tree and you will not be able to saw any further.

You will notice that when felling a tree the vertical cuts are always problem free because gravity pulls the off-cut away from the saw. With horizontal cuts fire your blade in at an angle, and in cut in the direction the tree (or whatever) is likly to fall. As you cut rock your blade to help it bite into the wood and resist jamming. If your chain jams do not keep on the gas for you will burn out the clutch.

For an awkard cut instead of feeding it right through cut towards the middle to create a notch, then cut from the other side, the weight of the tree will fall on the cut portion leaving your blade free to slice through.

Just think logically and make sure that the blade can feed through without getting pinched, this is well represented if you get a log and support both sides then cut vertically in the centre; it will get pinched imeediatly. Now cut from the underside and it will fly right through.

This is difficult to describe but plan your cuts and test it out.

Cheers,

Kevin

If your saw has a removable sprocket, Check the drive sprocket on the clutch drum. Either the the spline is worn or the drive link on the chain is not properly seated in the sprocket well.