Having problems with the 3 point arms on my CaseIH MX-135. They won't raise. Any suggestions?

did you find a answer about the handbrake as i have the same problem

I have the same problem. When I removed the drivers side wiper arm, I found that the nut that held the arm in place was only finger tight, which allowed the arm to raise slightly off the splined shaft. This caused the shaft to strip the splines out of the wiper arm.. after inspecting and cleaning the shaft, it appears that the splines on the shaft are still in decent shape. You may need to only replace the wiper arm. About $50 at a few online toyota parts sellers. replacing it is simple and requires only a flat blade screwdriver to remove the black cap off the nut, and a wrench to remove and replace the nut. simply remove the nut, and pop off the wiper arm. push the new arm onto the splined shaft pointing the same place as the passenger side wiper, then tighten the nut down. I would also suggest wiping the metal shavings off the splined shaft with some sort of abrasive pad, like scotchbrite, before putting the new wiper arm back on. I hope this helps.

A 4310s 3-pt should be able to lift approx. 1-ton at 24inches on the 3-pt lifting arm. I thought there was a hydraulic reservoir and a transmission reservoir and it is not uncommon to put the wrong fluid in one of those You might check that transmission fluid didn't get in the hydraulic tank.

when your machine on your machine movable arm pushing a switch liver which will raise your feed dogs you can do one thing when your arm moves to the normal possision just given your finger to the upside movable are you see one long switch bar is there just push and see machine feed dogs will come out actualy that action to be done by arm only,you call one MC expart to resoved your problem permenetly.

Not knowing what make or model miter saw you have here's how most of them work. There should be a long arm, about half straight and half having a lazy 'S' shape to it going from the base near where the upper head pivots up to the blade guard. It should be attached to the base with a shoulder screw so it is free to pivot. The shoulder screw in the blade guard (it may or may not have a bearing on it) passes through an elongated hole in the lazy 'S" end of the arm. Somewhere about half way down the arm there should be a screw through a bearing or bushing in the upper metal housing that rides on top of the arm. As the head is lowered for a cut the mid-point bearing pushes the arm down and pulls the blade guard up. If any of these three screws fell out, the system won't work.

Check for a blue snapping spark on 2 or 3 plug wires(or all of them). If you get good spark, then ignition is likely not the problem. A weak or sporadic spark could be a bad coil or coil pack, or a bad ignition module (the ignitor).Check the coils with a volt-ohmmeter per the specs for your car. The ignitor can be tested at a parts store.
If spark is good, check fuel filter, fuel pressure, check timing marks on crank pulley and cam marks, Try a little starting fluid in the air intake and see if it runs for a moment. If so, then it's likely a fuel delivery problem. If no change, then it's likely an ignition circuit problem.
Good luck.

linkage is worn. remove deck plate and check shaft going through range cover to see if ts worn.also check arm on verticle shaft to see if keyway is worn. these parts are availeable from your local caseih dealer

I would suggest the following:

Step 1: Press the DEL key to get into BIOS while boot-up.
Step 2: Select the option where it says "Load default settings"
Step 3: save and exit BIOS

After doing so, if you are able to boot your computer, then a new CMOS battery would be required to solve the issue for ever. This problem could also happen, if you haven't used you computer for quite long.

The three point hitch raises with hydraulic pressure. When the hitch will not raise the first thing to check is the hydraulic fluid level. If it is low add hydraulic fluid to the proper level as stated in the owner manual.

If I am right, the firing order is,1-3-4-2. With the dissy cap removed, have someone turn the engine over so you can see which way the rotor arm goes. Set the engine to TDC and the rotor arm should point to the No1 cylinder at the start of the firing order. If it rotor points away from the No 1 cylinder then slacken the dissy housing and move the diddy until the rotor ppoints to the No1 cylinder. Now pHT lead from the No1 spark plug to the No 1 possition on the dissy cap. The next lead goes on the next available possition on the dissy cap in the way of the rotation of the rotor then to the No3 spark plug carry on the same with 2 and 4 and that should solve your problem unless you have a different firing order.