My dryer is taking a very long time to dry clothes and i already cleaned the lint screen
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow
SOURCE: how to get your EZ to start drying again
thanks, snwbrdr! it's working much better now! thanks. damn ... that thang was DIRTY!
SOURCE: Drying Issue (help!)
It's lint stuck in the dryer that drastically lowers the efficiency.
From another site I found the solution:
1. UNPLUG UNIT
2, remove 4 screws top back edge of top panel and lift off panel.
3. blower will be toward the right rear of unit. To save a hassle later, take a sharp object and scrib an index mark across where the blower meets the plenum, it will help you line it up later.
4. there are four 7mm bolt-head screws holding the blower and blower motor onto the heater plenum. One of the screw is almost impossible to see, but there are 4. I used a "flex-shaft" socket to get them out. This can be a real PITA.
5. carefully lift blower motor out of plenum. You will probably need to shove the whole tub unit to the left to get clearence. IF YOU OPT TO DISCONNECT THE BLOWER WIRES MAKE A DIAGRAM OF WHERE THEY CONNECT!!
6. I usually use a thin knife to scrape each of the vanes on the blower. Then vac everything out and use your hand to check for smutz in the plenum.
7. THE FAN ONLY FITS ONE WAY ON THE PLENUM. be sure to test fit to see if all the holes line up.
8. When motor is back in place, spin the little cooling fan on top of motor to make sure it's not binding. I usually test the unit by plugging it in and starting dryer to make see it runs.
9. Put top of unit back in place.
SOURCE: Problems Drying Clothes
That's the way it works, kinda stupid, it would be good if it did that at first to loosen up clothes in case they're stuck to the drum but then move like a traditional dryer but that's just the way it is. BTW, here's a website with parts for it in case you need them. I never used them but just found them, I was lucky I never had any problems with my equator until now but I kinda can live with it (during rinse cycles it pumps water out but then when it does the short spins it does not, so rinsing is not as effective sinse it leaves a lot of dirty water in and then puts fresh water in and does it again, it does pump the water out during the final spin cycle though). Anyways, good luck. I bought mine in 2001 or 2002 and never had any problems except for the one I mentioned.
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