How to connect a 6 volt ignition system - Razor 300001-SL Ground Force Go Kart

Possible suspects are:
1. A severely drained battery.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.

You checked the charging voltage at the battery with a ? volt meter ? What was the voltage with the vehicle running ? 13.1 to 14.1 volts ?
BATTERY NOT CHARGING The IPC illuminates the battery not charging indicator in the driver information center when the following occurs:
?€¢
The PCM detects that the generator output is less than 11 volts or greater than 16 volts. The IPC receives a class 2 message from the PCM requesting illumination.

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The IPC determines that the system voltage is less than 11 volts or greater than 16 volts. The IPC receives a class 2 message from the body control module (BCM) indicating the system voltage

Charge Indicator Always On
Step
Action
Yes
No

1

Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check for Starting and Charging? yes or no
Go to Step 2 yes
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Electrical no

2

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Observe the Charge indicator on the instrument cluster (IPC)

Does the charge indicator illuminate?
Go to Step 3
Go to Symptoms - Engine Electrical

3

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Disconnect the generator connector.
3. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.

Does the charge indicator illuminate?
Go to Step 4
Go to Charging System Test

4

Test the charge indicator control circuit for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 5

5

Replace the PCM. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement in Engine Controls 4.2L.
Did you compete the replacement?
Go to Step 6
--

6

Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
System OK
Go to Step 3

You are still getting high or low voltage at tps? What is the voltage and do you have a unstable idle? Put you + lead on terminal 3 and - lead on terminal 1 turn ignition on and check voltage to be at approximately 5 volts. You can also back probe with it connected at center wire and ground probe to a good ground at engine. Turn ignition on it should read between 0.20 - 0.90 slowly manually open throttle it should rise all the way to 4.5 voltd at full open. If its bad change tps if no 5.0 volts from pcm on first test check connections at pcm. The center tps connector supply wire comes from pin 22 and connection 3 ( which is 5 volt supply ) comes from pin 6. You should be able to back probe pin 6 turn ignition on and have 5 volts. If not 5 v brain has problem.

Voltage conversion necessitates the replacement of all 6 volt light bulbs and motors with 12 volt light bulbs and motors (including the starter), plus the addition of a ballast resistor to the ignition primary so that the ignition primary can continue to operate on 6 volts. You will need to refit a 12 volt starter solenoid, alternator, and regulator to the vehicle as well. Needless to point out that you will also need to replace the radio. You can use the original wiring if it is in good condition, and all switches should operate adequately as long as their insulators are still intact. The 12 volt system uses less current than the 6 volt system, so there should be no problem with wire gauge.
IMPORTANT: If the original system is POSITIVE GROUND instead of NEGATIVE GROUND, you will need to verify the polarity of all motors you replace, plus reverse the polarity of the ignition coil primary.

It is not a good idea to connect 12v to a 6v system. It can short out the ignition system, generator, and any electronics that are energized. It is best to use a 6v charger.

It would seem best to just remove all of the original low voltage wiring completely. You won't need the 'cutout' device any more as the diodes in the alternator will replace that function. Does the ignition switch have a 'start' position? If not, then suggest finding a normally-open push button switch for a start button. Is the ignition system a points/coil/capacitor unit or a magneto. If a magneto, it needs to be grounded with a kill switch. If the points/coil system, then the key should apply power to the coil connection through a doubled resistor when running. You will also need a 12 volt battery of course. Change the starter solenoid to a 12 volt unit. The starter will draw about double the current used at 6 volts, but will likely survive if you don't 'grind' the engine. Depending on the tractor, there may be a 12 volt starter available that will fit. If you have an ammeter, it should be in series with the battery connection at the starter solenoid and the ignition, lights, and any other light loads (never in series with the large starter cable). That should cover most of your concerns, but understanding what I have written may be a concern. I don't have a wiring diagram specifically, so I hope this helps!

Use the yellow wire you are testing that is right. There should be a yellow , a orange/black, and a red/white wire coming from the key switch this is harness you are looking for.

GM Bypass Ignition System Operation part 1