Tdc 60 Dryer is showing no power fuse and power cable both check out ok could use a wiring diagram or some advice on suspect components

There are some overload/temperature switches within the dryer. Most reset when the overload/temp gone. You could open up the back and follow the wires to the overload switches and check with an electrical tester to see if you have power passing through each. The wiring diagram should be inside the dryer, and show each switch.

you will need a volt / ohm meter which you can buy at walmart or any hard ware store.once you have one set it to ohms. pull rear panel and check to see is terminals to the heater have resistance.if it does check the thermostats on the side of the element.but first make sure you have 220 volts at the dryer connection on the dryer the far two terminals should have 220 v if you dont trace the wires back starting at the breaker

The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower housing. Its a small white plastic component with two wire leads.

The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals.

The reason I mention both these components is because some people confuse the two and use the words interchangeably. There is a difference between the two components and what they do.

DOUBLE CHECK YOUR SYMPTOMS:

If your dryer does not run at all, check your Thermal Fuse.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat you need to check the Thermal Cut-Out.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know what symptoms you are having. Please include your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I can determine how your dryer is configured. I hope this is helpful to you.

This is most often caused by a bad thermal fuse or thermostat high limit cutout. Check them for continuity (with the machine unplugged, of course) They should have continuity -- replace them if open. They should be available at www.appliancepartspros.com Also, if one or both are bad, check the dryer vent as they often are damaged by high heat due to a restricted vent pipe. The website above also has diagrams to help find the parts on the machine.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

What you are describing could either be:

• another thermal fuse but should read '0" ohms at normal temperature / condition;
• sensor bar;
• thermistor.

The exploded parts diagram starting here would help you identify it. Offhand though, it would appear to be not a part of the heater circuitry but of the general controller board.

To your concern on the heater failing to heat, some pointers:

• there are 2 temperature sensitive protective devices in series with the heater. Failure of any would result to no heat;
• the heater is activated by 2 switches; 1 in the controller board and another inside the fan motor;
• below is an electrical wiring diagram that may be referenced to trace where the voltage would be missing hence no heater power.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

My generic wiring diagram doesn't show this dryer uses a thermistor, only thermostats. The difference is a thermistor has to have an electronic control to interpret the values the thermistor is sending. A thermostat is mechanical and only open or closes at a preengineered temperature. You would need to check the ohm readings of a thermistor at different temperatures to test it, but you only need to know continuity or no continuity to test a thermostat. First make sure you have 240 volts to the dryer, the heater is the only part that needs 240 to run. It's possible for only half of the breaker to trip and give the dryer only 120 volts, in this case everything but the heater would run. If you've got 240 volts, to the dryer, unplug it, then check for continuity between the 2 terminals of the 2 thermal fuses, cycling thermostat, and hi limit thermostat and heater. Remember you must disconnect one wire before testing to prevent incorrect readings. If it still runs, just no heat, the 2 thermal fuses should be ok, but check them anyways. If they all test ok you'll need to check the temp selector switch. You'll need the wiring diagram to show which terminals to check at each heat setting. If that checks out you'll need to move to the timer, again you'll need the diagram. If the timer checks, the only thing left is the centifugal switch in the motor, and the only way to check that is to test it with the motor running.

This link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.

You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.


Here are some common solutions to help resolve the issue with your appliance.
Clicking on the underlined links will take you directly to that page.

If your dryer doesn't work at all, or just stopped working, it could be because of problems with:

Power from the house
Door switch
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)

Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

For parts or diagrams, follow this link:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0003.asp

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

It sounds like you have a blown thermal fuse. Searspartsdirect.com has a replacement kit available. Just type in your model number and the kit can be located under the "Heater" heading as item number 5 (part #LA-1053). The kit contains the hi-limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Replace both components at the same time. NOTE: Only one of the thermal fuses will be used, however. One is for a GAS dryer, while the other is for an ELECTRIC dryer. They are marked accordingly.

To access, you will need to remove the dryer front panel. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife into the seam where the dryer top and front meet (about 2 inches in from each end) and pushing in to depress the release tabs. Disconnect the door switch wires and the front panel comes off and can be set aside (make sure you label the wires). With the front panel removed, the dryer top panel lifts up. The heating element will be located in the center-rear of the dryer behind the dryer drum.

If you require further assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.

NOTE: The website also includes helpful illustrations for component location and wiring diagrams. The correct wiring diagram depends on your dryer serial number. If you have questions about this let me know (send me the serial number).

Ok,

So u need to bu a fuse for your model right?