Runs at a galloup but wont continue to run

i do not think this is a voltage issue, this a wattage or power out is not enough power in watts to keep the weed eater running, you need to know what wattage the weed eater requires to run.

even though you have a generator that says it will run 3000watts, but in the generator only runs at 1500watts continuously running time until it runs out of gas.

know lets say your generate say 2000watts, that means you are only going to get 1000watts continuously unit you run out of gas.

The toggle switch automatically resets all faults when it is turned to the off position. I would turn the toggle switch off, turn off the breaker on the generator and then turn off all the loads in the house except a few lights. Turn the generator breaker back on, then turn the toggle switch back to automatic. If it starts and stays running, you were overloading the generator. Turn on other loads slowly and keep track of what is on so you don't overload it again. If it still does not stay on, you may have a problem with the panel. Let me know what happens.

If it keeps running after you unplug it, you have somehow gotten your hands on a perpetual motion machine. Use it to run a generator and sell electricity to your neighbors!
Seriously, I think you meant "after you turn it off at the washing machine control panel." You probably have a shorted motor contact in the timer (contacts welded together).

Full choke to start, open choke partially immediately the engine starts to where the motor runs smoothly, continue opening as soon as you can while keeping the engine running smoothly. Be sure to open fully before leaving the unit, running it with the choke partially on can cause a rich fuel condition which tends to wash the oil off the cylinder walls and it also dilutes the oil with gasoline.

lp

If the generator is installed correctly and it is running within it's continuous rated capacity, it can run indefinitely. The main thing is operating temperature. Just like a car engine, once it comes up to normal operating temperature it's cooling system should be able to keep it from overheating. But unlike a car, where the manufacturer has complete control over the installation, a standby generator could possibly be installed in a way that inhibits proper cooling. However, this is very unlikely if the unit was professionally installed. And even if it did overheat, the unit should be able to trip it's own breakers or shut itself down anyway. The only other consideration is fuel consumption. A standby generator is not an economical way to get your electricity. If it runs for several days or weeks you are going to notice the fuel bill. I hope you found this helpful.

The switch should be three positional.
The upper position is only for starting. Continuous running is in the middle (self holding) position. Lower position is to stop the generator.
If left in middle position it is not running you may have the switch bad, or the generator is stopped by low oil level.

Here are the most common reasons for your condition.

CHECK IF ENGINE KEEPS RUNNING The most common complaint is that the engine starts but will not keep running when the START switch is released. This happens because the control board will not allow the engine to continue running if the generator is not producing voltage or if the oil pressure signal is not present. See CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING on the Troubleshooting Chart for your model. If the engine will not keep running, do the following:
A1. Generator AC Output Check the generator AC output voltage as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "B1-B2 Volts" or "L1 AC Volts" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need this AC voltage to keep running. Read between the points shown on the Troubleshooting Chart. If the AC voltage readings are good, proceed to "B" below.
A2. Field Flash If there is no AC, check for 10-12 VDC at the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board during cranking. If the field flash voltage is not present, the control board is defective. If the field flash voltage is present, the wiring or regulator may be defective. To eliminate the wiring, check continuity between the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board and pin 7 of the regulator. If the continuity is good, either the regulator or the field circuit (rotor and brushes) may be the problem.
A3 Field Circuit Check the field circuit by unplugging the regulator and measuring the resistance between pins 9 and 10 of the regulator’s mating plug. This reading should be 22 to 28 ohms. If this reading is too high, check the brushes and/or clean the slip rings (use the Slick Stick, or a similar tool). If this reading is too low, there may be a short in the rotor. Also, check the resistance from pins 9 and 10 to ground. This reading should be very high or infinity. If not, there is likely a ground in the rotor. If these readings are all good, the regulator is likely defective.
3
A4 External Excitation To confirm that the regulator is defective, turn off the generator’s AC circuit breaker(s), reconnect the regulator and apply 12 volts through a diode to pin 9 of the regulator plug (see illustration) while attempting to start the engine. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this without the diode. If you do, there will be fireworks! Remove the 12 volts within 1-2 seconds after the engine starts. If the genset now continues to run and produces normal AC voltage, the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If the genset does not continue to run but produces about 40% of normal AC voltage, again the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If no AC voltage is produced, the generator may have a problem that is beyond the scope of this guide. Re-check all wiring for security and signs of damage. It may be necessary to take the unit to a qualified repair shop.
B. Check the oil pressure switch as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "LOP to GND" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need the oil pressure switch to be closed to ground when running. If the voltage on the LOL/LOP SW pin of the control does not go to near zero, the switch is not closing. These switches sometimes stick open if the generator has not been used or exercised often enough. Multiple start/stop cycles and/or tapping on the oil pressure switch will sometimes fix it. It may be necessary to temporarily jumper the switch to ground to keep the engine running. This can be done at the switch or at the OIL LOL/LOP SW pin on the control board. Models showing "LOP Open" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING have electronic governors and require the low oil pressure switch to be closed at starting but open during running. When the switch opens, the governor module places a ground on the oil pressure input of the control board (P1-5). It is OK to temporarily ground P1-5 on this model to keep the engine running. NOTE: See chart for oil pressure and oil level switch locations.
C. If there is AC voltage present on B1-B2 or L1 AC, as applicable, and the correct oil pressure/level signal is present at the OIL LOL/LOP SW input of the control board, and the engine will not keep running, the control board is defective.

This should help you get it going.

Kelly

I replaced the upper control panel, and that was the problem.

check the oil level most products like this have a safety valve.

A: Running watts are the continuous watts needed to keep items running. Starting watts, are extra watts needed for two or three seconds to start motor-driven products like a refrigerator or AC unit.