Kenmore 110 Heavy Duty 70 Series Washing Machine won't spin

SOURCE: I have a kenmore Heavy Duty 70 series. drains, but won't spinn?

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If everything else works OK, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on the transmission.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

SOURCE: belt on my kenmore 70 series washing machine

Your washer should be a direct drive unit, it has no belt. If you hear the motor running but nothing is happening you probably have a broken motor coupler. The coupler is about $10.

Pop off the trim pieces on each end of the console.
Remove the two screws that hold the console to the cabinet and flip the console back.
Remove the two clips that hold the cabinet to the rear panel of the washer and unplug the lid switch harness. The cabinet will tilt forward and slide off.
Remove the clips holding the water pump and move it to the side.
Unplug the wires from the motor and remove the clips holding it.
You will see the motor coupler.
Make sure you can turn the gearcase shaft with a pair of pliers so it is not locked up.
Post back and let me know what you find or if you need any help.

SOURCE: kenmore heavy duty washing machine 70 series

The most likely cause for water fill temperature problems is the solenoid has burned out, usually cold first, it gets used more. Not a repairable item , easy to replace

SOURCE: Broken Machine-Kenmore 70 series Washing Machine

This is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. If your model number is correct, the lid switch for your washer is located under the right hand side of the washer casing along the wash tub rim. The switch is activated by a small plastic piece on the washer lid (called a "lid strike") through a small hole. The switch contacts close when you shut the lid. In many cases, the lid switch either comes loose, or the lid strike breaks off. In both cases, the washer will exhibit the symptoms you describe. Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" sound as the switch contacts close. If you cannot hear the switch, make sure the lid strike is intact and the mounting screws for the lid switch (located around the wash tub opening on the casing) are tight. Sometimes, all it takes is to tighten the lid switch screws to realign it with the lid strike. If the switch is defective, or the strike is missing, parts can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number, which can be found on a nameplate under the washer lid. The lid switch and lid strike will be listed under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. Other sites that offer competitive pricing are repairclinic.com and appliancepartspros.com. If you require instructions on how to replace the switch, you may use the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If you have questions, or if the diagnosis is incorrect, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Dan Webster

• 8221 Answers
• Posted on Jan 21, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore Series 70 washing machine whines and low flow on cold H2O

Yeah you need to replace the water valve. To get to it you need to remove the cabinet on the newer direct drive models, If yours has a rear access panel then you simply pop the top to get to the valve after removing the hoses. Fairly simple job. Here is a good website for direct drive coupling replacement . It shows you how to open the cabinet. http://repair2000.com/coupling.html
GVI 151 is the generic part that fix all belt drive models. Direct drive will need its own little water valve buy hay it ain't but 20 bucks.
For a better explanation post you model number in the comment box and I will research it further for you amigo.


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