Cycle pauses after about 6 minutes. It doesn't want to spin. In test mode, I'm getting error code E46. With tumble test, motor only tumbles in one direction. With spin test, motor won't spin at all. In testing resistance at the motor, I get close to six ohms between red-blue, blue-white, and white-red prongs. When I test yellow-yellow (motor sensor?) at the control board position P9, I get no continuity. Does this sound like the motor sensor might be bad? If so, do I need a whole new motor, or can I somehow replace/fix the sensor?

SOURCE: GE front load washer can't handle more than a single shirt at a time or won't tumble or spin

Front load washers have an auto water level determined by the weight of the clothes placed in the washer.
If that sensor is malfunctioning the washer may not run !
Unfortunately I think that its time to spend $75. and have a trained GE laundry tech with hands on diagnostic experience remedy the problem. Rather than you spending tons of your hard earned money swapping parts!
I agree with you on that point!
I understand this is not as complicated as a jet engine.
And you tried your best,but some times it is more
cost efficient to let a surgeon fix my hernia while I'm relaxed and under anesthesia, than try to fix it myself!
If My jet was broken, I would not risk flying it after I fixed the problem because I am an appliance man!
I would prefer my life in your hands with your expertise !

Please cut your self a break and call service. You may find it interesting, and fascinating yourself to see what the problem was!

Bless you, and let me know what was the end result!

I believe if I was there with hands on, I would solve your problem!
Please give me a good rating before you sign off, for my rational and calming advice
ngafm

SOURCE: washer is not tumbling after water fill.

You may have a corrupted ccu or relay. Does the machine drain and is there an error code? It starts ok and then does not continue and the pressure switch is ok? You may want to remove the swith and lightly blow into it and check for continuity and then ohms. Any small measure and I would replace it. Also if the ccu says it is ok and it is not then I would question the ccus ability to function normally.

SOURCE: GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any kind of load but works fine empty

Hai
Check This,I think this may helps You,


Recently, our front-loading GE WBVH6240 washing machine (essentially the same as the GE WBVH6260 and GE WHDVH626) stopped pumping out water, leaving the machine filled with soapy suds. Internet research showed that the solution was to pop off the front panel, open a drain, and then take apart the motor. Fixing it took much longer than it should have, because we could not find any photos or clear instructions as to where the screws and cleavage points were. Therefore, I'm posting some instructions with photos, with due credit for the basic process to http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/1482-ge-front-load-washer-wont-drain.html
Oh, and by the way - ours came without any serial number or model number label on the side or, for that matter, on the back. Shame on Sears or GE - though we probably should have noted this when it was first delivered. We got the model number by looking it up in the manual, matching the drawing to the machine.
First, a word on the pump. This is a DP40-018 Hanning Elektro Werke design - you won’t find that on the Internet easily. However, a search led me to hanning.de, which sells this assembly under the Hanning DP40 label. I suspect you can find a reseller eventually, for the pump itself; the rest of the assembly is unlikely to ever be damaged. The pump is made in China but we’re assured of Quality German Supervision (those of us who have relatives with Volkswagen and Mercedes cars are no longer convinced that German Supervision and Quality belong in the same sentence).
The working parts of the machine are accessible once you’ve removed the front panel. Underneath the front of the machine, if you bend down far enough, you can see three white-painted screws. Use a good, standard Philips screwdriver on these (#2 in our case). Get a good amount of pressure on the screws before turning because GE was foolish enough to get paint into the working part of the screw (that is, the cross-hatch), and you don't want to strip these. They are not that hard to get out, but again, you don’t want to strip them. Take out the three screws, pull off the panel, and you can see everything.
The pump is very close to you, on the right-hand side, right in front. First, get a big bucket - preferably several - and open up the drain valve (righty-tighty, left-loosey, so go LEFT, or counter-clockwise, to open it). Gallons of water will shoot out along with whatever rubbish is in the machine - pebbles from your young child, emory boards from your wife (or from you), marbles, coin batteries, lots of small change, etc. This in itself may solve your problem! but we might as well check the pump.
The pump screws are invisible unless you've taken off the hoses from the pump. There are two of these, and if you take them off before you drain the tub, you will have pretty well damaged the inside of your washer. Try to catch the water that comes out when you take off the hoses. My system is to use a locking pliers (vise-grips) to compress the two parts of the clip together - set the vise-grips so the two parts of the clip will just about touch each other. That will give you enough wiggle room to slide off the hose, gently, while holding the clip loose. Do not let the clip come back together over the hose. Gently open up the vise-grips once you're out of the washer and drop the clamp somewhere. Remember which clamp belongs to which hose (there are two hoses). Also remember which hose goes to which part of the pump. You should really be writing this down or something as you go. Photos of inside-the-washer are difficult to get.
Now, you should be able to see one of the screws. It's a bit of a job to get the screwdriver vertical over the screws, but you can do it. Do not try to hold the screwdriver at an angle; you really do not want to strip these screws and you don’t have to. They are not in very tight, and should come right out. One screw is pretty far to the left; the other is roughly in the middle of the pump; they are both on the far side of the pump and screw it down to the floor of the washer. Don’t try for the screws that hold the two parts of the pump together. The pump includes the drain-pipe! It’s all one assembly and it’s sold that way by Hanning. You can see it in the illustration at the top of this page. The pump is held in place by fairly firm supports that, when you look at it from the front of the washer, are behind the pump/pipe assembly.
To get the wires off, -- remembering which side each color wire is on! -- squeeze hard and pull carefully, working each terminal off, but without using so much force that you might break something or, when it releases, slam your hand into the sharp metal edge. Pull at the terminal, not at the wire - you don't want to break these, either, unless you like using solder guns in tight spots. Now you can gently push the pump/pipe assembly back, so that the white stubs on the drain-pipe clear the little rubber washer things, and when it’s free carefully lift it out of the washer.
Okay, now the pump is out. First, find the three visible screws that hold the motor to the pipe assembly (two of them are visible in the first photo, partly unscrewed), get a laundry marker, and mark the plastic where the screws go in so that when you re-assemble, you don’t have to figure out which holes they go into. Then separate the two parts of the pump - the motor and the rest of it - by undoing the three screws. We kept using our #2 Philips but a #1 might fit better; the screws came right out so it wasn’t an issue. And look what we found: a safety pin blocking the impeller (the moving part) from moving! No wonder the pump was warm. (If the pump is not warm, that indicates no current reaching it. However, on this washer, the pump does tend to get blocked more than anything else.)
A new pump will run you at least $170, probably more, from GE, so it’s well worth taking it apart and fixing it yourself, especially with service calls at $70 per hour.
I tried to get some of the lint out, with moderate success. This is a badly sealed pump and frankly I'm not impressed by the filter design, either. Someone got cheap in the engineering process and did not consider that owners do not want to take their pumps out every two years. Be careful with what you put into the machine!
When you re-assemble the pump, make sure you put the screws back into the holes that have threads.
Putting everything back was easy enough - be careful about pushing the white stubs into the black washer things (for the drain-pipe), and you may find the wires a little short, but it’s easier than getting it out. I had a photo of what the pump looked like before I took it apart, and now you do to, so you can easily put it back together the right way. The hardest part of getting everything back together was wiping up the water that spilled from the hose, and then getting the outer lid back on without someone to hold it in place.
Thank You

SOURCE: Drum won't Tumble or spin

check motor winding resistance. new motor comes with motor control unit. main controls are not common on ge

SOURCE: have a Kenmore Elite HE4t

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(just in case it's the following!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my comprehensive guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C