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Goodday!I bought the MGB 4000 watt generator second hand and I now have to replace the GFCI 110 VOLT 2 outlet plug.Are these 2 outlets,considered to be separate outlets with a 15 amp capacity for each?
Also,I presume that the circular 30 amp socket is a 110 volt outlet.Am I correct.?A copy of a wiring diagram would be much appreciated.
What is the best GFCI outlet plug(brand name)since the springs popped out (reset) of my outlet.Thank you very much for any assistance. Vitas
Here is a manual for a newer mge model. I don't think your going to find a manual on the older mgb around and they tend to be very similar from one model to another so it should help. Though you should be able to get parts.
As for the gfci brand, I have not had any problems with any of the brands out there. So the cheapest is the best. The 30amp socket could be 110 or 220vac. If there is a selector switch on your machine. If not, there should be a NEMA number on the face of the socket (ie 15-5R). The R stands for receptical while a P stands for plug.
Here is a plug configuratio diagram that will help identify your plug and the voltage it puts out. These are standard so you can be sure that if it the same plug it will put out the same power. Be carefull to ensure which side is larger or has a tab is correct.
While replacing the plug just swap wire for wire in the same place as your new plug. Gold connector to gold and silver to silver.
The inside of a small generator is very similar and if this don't help I can walk you through any connections you have questions on. Pictures would help if it comes to this.
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Wire from the ignition points goes to the negative side of the coil. It may be marked #1 on the coil. Power goes to the + side of the coil which might be marked # 15. Should be the only wire from the distributor to the coil. Real good modification for your Metro is replace the transmission with a fully syncro unit out of a 68 or newer MGB. You can also replace the engine with a 68 or newer MGB 5 main bearing engine and keep the positive ground electrical. The engine are identical on the outside but much better power and reliability. It will look all original but drive like a dream. I want a Metro convertible at some point in my life. I love those cars.
The VIN for the later MGB circa 1970 to 1980, may be found stamped on a plate secured to the left hand door post, and on a plate secured to the top of the dashboard.
These colour codes maybe useful -
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/paint.htm
Could be lost exciter current. This is how to restore it - Connect 16 or 18 gauge wires to a 12 volt battery. With generator running, insert bare ends of wires into AC outlet - one to Hot, the other to Neutral. Insert and remove quickly. There should be a flash and power will be restored. If not, repeat until you get that flash and output current restored. Using light gauge wires is so that if you are too slow to remove them once AC is restored. they will burn out before the battery suffers from the AC incoming. Be quick and be careful.
After removing the column covers, (screws in holes underneath) The 2 unslotted studs holding the ignition and steering lock assembly onto the column are anti-theft screws. They will turn by hitting them on the edges with a hammer and small sharp chisel - counter clockwise.
Check the voltage with a meter in all the recepticles with your meter leads in the left and right slots on the plugs. Is that 184 volts AC there? If so, your gen has big problems with the voltage regulator. Let me know what you read. You can check the right slot of each plug to the round ground hole on the plug too, should be 120 volts there.
Most generators have several circuits incorporated within the windings. There are usually two 115v windings, one or two windings that produce power and sensing voltage for the regulator that supplies power to the armature (produces magnetic force) and sometimes a 12v winding to supply power to charge the battery. The two 115v windings power one 115v plug each and together power the 220v plug. Each outlet has a breaker and or ground fault. Since the 115v plugs are working indicates that the 220v plug must have an open/broken wire or faulty breaker. Easy to check, however you must open cover to wiring compartment and trace wires. Should be easy fix. You do not have to start engine to find broken wire. Use ohm meter instead. With engine off, Insert probes into 115v plug and obtain ohm reading. Then insert probes into second 115v plug and obtain similar reading. Look for same reading at the 220v plug (remember 2 circuits of 115v, ground and neutral). Good luck with your repair and email if you have other question.
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