Motor with no labels

electric motor reversal requires the field winding to be reversed
this is best done by an electrical motor repair electrician as not getting it right can burn the motor out

the colors on standard t-stat are rh/rc gets red wire. g goes to fan green. y goes to outside unit cool. and in your case w labeled black goes to heat normally this wire is white.

its labelled h/wash middle left by abs2

The diagram is almost always either on a label on the side of the motor or on a label inside the little connection hatch.

If it is a brush motor, the brushes can be stuck, or the armature needs to be cleaned. This happens when a motor sits too long. Often there is a cover over the brushes, where you can check them, and see if the armature needs polishing.
Before you take the motor apart, wire a light to the motor wires. If it doesn't burn bright, your switch is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the motor is 220, have an electrician check it out. 220 is nothing to play around with.

Motor wiring will appear on label on side of motor, for Lo 110V, and Hi 220V.
L1 is Line 1 is usually Hot wire
L2 is Line 2 is usually Neutral wire
Motor will show direction of rotation CW clockwise.
Compare diagram with old blower motor.
http://www.centuryelectricmotor.com/Applications/AdvanceCatalogSearch.aspx#Blower%20Units

Take photo of label and include link to photo so wiring diagram can be viewed.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

A lot of wires can be confusing but you ain't gonna use half of them. I have not seen you motor but they are basically all the same. You are going to have a Red wire for low(heating), Blue for medium (which is not needed), and Black for high speed (cooling). A solid white wire is the common wire. Go ahead and tape the blue medium speed wire off by itself so it won't short anythang out. Their will be 2 brown wires with spade clips and the capacitor goes to them. The other wires have to do with reversing the motor and you can see how that is done by using the directions on the label. You NEVER want to connect the speeds together or that burns up the motor. If you have electric heat then it is simple just use black for high and white for common and tape the other speeds off to themselves so that they don't short out against each other or the unit.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I think you have the power wire mixed up. Your power supply to the switch should be black. And in most cases goes the the L-1 labeled on the switch. If you have trouble finding the power just plug the wires in and use a simple light or voltage tester. Once you have the power wire just touch each wire 1 at a time and you can tell the speeds. Once you have the speeds hook them up to low being 1 med.2 high 3. Then your done

When looking at the switch it self, There will be 4 contacts. On the switch 2 will be labeled Line (Power in) and 2 will be labeled Motor (power out to motor) . Hook the black and white wires from the power cord to the line side (Either contact, it does not matter). Hook the 2 black and white wires from the motor to the contacts labeled Motor on the switch. The remaining 2 green wires (one from the motor and one from the cord) are to be grounded to the case on the switch.

ummmm, honestly ive never replaced just the board(im an authorized maytag servicer) so our replacements have always been new, and in this case the repair kit containing both board and motor. that being said, i cant see a reason as to why you couldnt relace just the board itself, ,Ireally never found the reason why the board would burn out, but, as far as repair kit im certain that they were trying to get all circuit boards and motors back to only one model, instead of having 5 or six different boards andmotors, this will bring them all to the most recent board and motor, never was an issue with themotor, jusat that you couldnt wire in the new board without the neew wiring. As long as its the same board i cant see why that wont work. as far as the "wax motor" that was a seperate issue burning out the Top control board, total seperate then your problem,., dont really see an issue with installing your "used board"