This is the model and it was doing fine then we found the whole freezer section melted. No ice build up on back section coils. Is there some place near Atlanta Ga where we can find a repair person?
SOURCE: Haier model# HTQ21J*SS freezer ices up with melted water, not draining
I have the same problem. I pulled off the panel inside the freezer and the motor fan wont move and there is black soot all over like there was a fire and it has a burned up smell inside.
SOURCE: Fridge not cold but freezer working great
I had the same problem, and it turned out to be a cooked fan motor.
I couldn't find a reasonable (less than $150) replacement motor from
Haier places, but I just took the motor out and took it to an appliance
repair center (in North Denver)
They said it was a standard part, charged me around $22 for a new one and I was all set.
For my replacement motor, it was a reversible design, and was initially set to go the wrong way, so I had to reverse it.
SOURCE: Fridge will not get cold
Was your fridge transported upright at all times? There are warnings on most brands not to lay them down due to potential damage. If that was not the case, those small units are often easy to repair.
[Note to garing: The person said there was no ice anywhere but on the back. Dorm sized refridgerators are rarely frost free, so your answer was pointless.]
SOURCE: M Haier refrigerator, model HSE12WNAWW, is getting
Seems like you set it at the lowest as you mentioned, try the recommended setting. The lowest is the coldest, that will freeze up your food items.
SOURCE: Ice is forming on the back wall of my freezer
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
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