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Anonymous Posted on Feb 16, 2013

Frigidaire electric range #GLEFZ384GCA won't work

Stopped working

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 833 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 13, 2007

SOURCE: My Frigidaire range display has gone out and the oven doesn't work.

sun, first test is to power the unit down. Find the pair of breakers which are generally 40 or more amperes. Turn them both off and back on. If this doesn't fix it, you will probably need a circuit board.

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BNewberry

Bill Newberry

  • 93 Answers
  • Posted on May 23, 2008

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though

Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks

Anonymous

  • 116 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 04, 2008

SOURCE: Frigidaire Electric Range error code

Hi jacksmdmat,
Your f30 problem may be a bad sensor circuit. It may have an open connection or just plain defective sensor. Check the connection between the clock and the sensor as well as disconnect and measure the resistance of the sensor - should be about 1090ohms at room temp (75F)

daveyates

  • 112 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 15, 2010

SOURCE: Oven will not come on

There is a oven controller on those type ovens and if you cannot get your oven to heat up but the stove top still works it is because there are on different circuits and the cotroller will cost near $350 if you have a convection oven and twice that for a service person to install!!

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Frigidaire electric range #GLEFZ384GCA has an F10 signal, and appears to continue heating when set at 170.

Thank you for allowing me to assist you, Friend.

Typically error code F10 indicates that your Frigidaire range has detected an issue with the runaway temperature (overheating). Let's attempt reprogramming your range by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. It is best to wait roughly ten minutes and then turn on your range. Usually this will clear most false error codes. If issue persists, at this moment I would suggest contacting a professional to proceed further. Most likely the RTD Probe (Resistance Temperature Detector) or the EOC (electronic oven control) will need replacing. Hope this helps! - Z
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Hello lornalang - Typically "PF" indicates power failure. Once again try reprogramming the range by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and restart unit. If it proves to be ineffective, the range may possibly be experiencing a wiring failure or faulty EOC. Consult a professional to move forward accurately and to assist with the repairs.

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Hello vinrocof - Please try resetting the unit by either unplugging it or flipping the breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and turn the unit back on. Try setting the time and if it proves to be ineffective, the unit may possibly have a faulty EOC, defective wiring harness or damaged cord. I would suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately.

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Hello steve o - Typically error code F11 indicates a shorted keypad. Try resetting the range by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. This usually will clear most false error codes. Wait approximately ten minutes and if the error code does not clear contact a professional to move forward accurately. Most likely the EOC on the range will need replacing.

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F9 is a door lock error and to solve this issue you can hold the light switch for 15 seconds, this will reset the control. If it won't work then hold the light switch in and set the unit to clean and after a minute press cancel to cancel the clean cycle. If still it won't work then the door lock assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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Have you checked the circuit breaker associated with this portion of your electrical panel? Do you have any power to the unit? Does the clock illuminate?
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