Where to hook up com neg. lead to check dc volts on tv????

The alternator is out. The ONLY time your vehicle uses battery power (while the engine is turning) is during start up. After that the alternator runs the car.

With the car running put a volt meter on the alternator. Red lead on the big nut on back side if alt. Black lead on the neg batt cable or a good body ground. Voltage should be around 14.5v DC.
Then still with engine running, red lead to batt postive, black lead to batt neg. Voltage should read the same. 14.5v DC
If not, the alt. Is bad

( "Power Supply Problem Not Switching "???? )

How do you know it's Not Switching? Do you mean the TV wont turn on when you push the power button on and off on the TV and also with the remote control unit? Is that what you mean? If YES! Then, If your Vizio TV wont turn on and has NO-PICTURE, NO-SOUND and a BLACK SCREEN, Then the TV has an AC or a DC Voltage Problem.

1 - First, check the wall outlet socket by pluging in a lamp to see if you have 110 AC-volts there. If the lamp works, the wall outlet is OK! That means the problem is inside the TV.

2 - Before, you remove the back off the TV. I want to *(CAUTION - YOU)* The Power Voltages inside your TV are Very, DANGEROUS!!! There is 110 AC Volts at a 20-AMP-Rating ***CAN BE A LETHEL DEADLY SHOCK HAZARD to HUMANS!!!*** Also there are DC Voltages ranging from 3.3 to 24 volts. And R-F- VERY-HIGH-VOLTAGE of 20,000 Volts or More.

3 - You will need hand tools and a Digitle Volt Ohm Meter to check AC & DC Voltages and the OHMS Meter section to check resistors, capacitors, coils, grounds and contacts.

4 - With the Back removed, and no-power to the set. Inspect the power board for any signs of BURNED, LOOSE or BROCKEN parts like resistors, capacitors, coils, fuses on all boards. If you discover damaged parts, make a list of them. Then you must deside if you are qualified to do the on board repair or just order a new replacment board.

5 - If on the other hand you didn't discover any damaged parts by your inspection, It's time to put the Meter to good use. Plug the TV power cord to the wall outlet. Set the Meter for AC - voltage range of 200 or more. check for 110 AC volts going to the power supply board fused inputs.
If NO replace the cord. If YES, look on the board for voltage test points marked on the board. (SAMPLE!) 3.3 vdc, 5 vdc, 12 vdc, 24 vdc, and so on. Set Meter for DC Volts now, range 50 to 100. Put the black lead to ground and the RED lead to each test point marked on the board while repetetedly pressing the TV power on & off button..

6 - If ANY of the DC voltages were LOW, WRONG or MISSING, The Main power board is defective and needs to be removed and replaced with a new one. Write down the board number that is on the board and use that number to order the new one. You can order it on the Net!

*****(NOTE)***** If you are not an electronics tech. don't try to fix the old defective board... but, keep it handy, you might need it for parts later. :-)

Hope This helped... GOOD LUCK! NOW, GO FIX YOUR TV!

You need a DVOM or digital volt ohm meter hook the neg to neg on the battery the pos lead to pos on the battery set scale to dc volts 30.Start the car and read the meter it should be at 13.5 to 14.5 volts if not alt is not working.You can also take it to autozone or kragen and they should check it for you free.

possible blown fuse or defected horn

Check the battery cables from the battery to the main fuse block and to the starter and all the grounds. Have you tested the battery to make sure it has a charge?

tooker check the battery wiring to make sure that the batteries are wired in series ie positive of one battery to neg of the other etc. If I remember correctly the Jet 3 wire from the battery plug into two plugs located in the battery area. Make sure that those connections are good. Also check that the joystick cable is seated well into the 9 pin connector at the rear of the chair. If all of that is good take a digital voltmeter and set it to 200 volts dc plug the two leads into the two outter holes of the charger port located under the front of the joystick. You should read the battery voltage at 25+ volts when fully charged. If you don't read anything there is a bad connection somewhere take the meter and check the individual battery voltage then take a reading at the plugs coming from each battery to make sure you have voltage going to the power module. Take a reading at the rear of the chair at the 9 pin socket neg in the hole in the center and touch the positive lead to all the other holes until you find 25+ volts. If you have voltage at the 9 pin connector then the problem is in the joystick and could be the on/off switch. Let me know what you find and I will try to help further if I can

The best way I have found to hunt down a current draw is with a multi meter set to the DCA setting (this will detect DC current flow). With the vehicle shut off, systematically remove fuses one at a time and place the leads from the meter in the connectors that held the fuse (one lead per fuse connection). You should have a little current flowing to the radio, for the clock, and maybe some to the engine computer and, if equipped, the alarm, the rest of the circuits should have no draw. This will narrow down your search to one circuit in the car, which can than be further diagnosed, usually it's a wire with the insulation rubbed through.
P.S. if the car has any after market equipment, such as audio amplifiers, start your search there. Hope this helps, good luck!!!!

check that all the wire connections are good, start at the 3 stator leads and follow it to the rectifier and to the battery, also if you have a multimeter, rev the bike up to 3000 revs and hook up the multimeter to the battery (positive to positive and neg - neg), this will give you the charging voltage, should be between 13-15 volts dc, if its not, it could be a bad stator, but is more likely to be the regulator rectifier unit

You need to confirm that you have voltage on the B+ and ground terminals and have a good ground.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

If all of that checks out, the amp probably has an internal fault (blown parts, broken connections...).

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.