20 Most Recent 2002 Chevrolet Venture Passanger Questions & Answers

haynes catalog has them in front of each section

Pin # 23 isn't going to send anything , this is an input to the PCM to signify crank is being requested . That's all just a signal for the PCM starting is being requsted . An the crank fuse doesn't have anything to do with power to pin 76 . The crank fuse B+ power comes from the ignition switch when in the start position an goes to pin # 23 at the PCM . B+ voltage from the PCM/ ABS fuse in the I/P fuse block goes to an through the park neutral safety switch to the coil side of the starter relay an on to pin 76 at the PCM

It has air in the line. let ir idle with the radiator cap off for a little while and the air will work its way out. You may have bigger issues, but I do not think you need to clean heater core because you get heat sometimes. Do you see a lot of bubbles when you take the radiator cap off when running, head gasket if so.. You can take the cap loose while the engine is running, but not after you stop it, it will be to hot. Good luck

You could replace the sensor or try disconnecting the DRL control module .What relay was replaced ? I see no relay on wiring diagrams or in service info. Replacing the Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Ambient Light Sensor isn't hard . Just take the top dash pad off ,easy . Removal Procedure Remove the instrument panel (IP) upper trim. Refer to Instrument Panel Upper Trim Pad Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gages and Console. Remove the security system LED. Refer to LED Indicator Replacement - Vehicle Security System in Theft Deterrent. Twist the DRL sensor counterclockwise in order to remove the sensor from the IP upper trim. Remove the DRL sensor from the wiring harness. Removal Procedure Remove the windshield garnish molding. Refer to Windshield Pillar Garnish Molding Replacement in Interior Trim. Important: Remove the upper trim panel slowly, the retainer clips could possibly fall into the instrument panel. Lift the instrument panel (IP) upper trim panel approximately 51 mm (2 in) and pull rearward to release the retainers. Remove the DRL ambient light sensor. Refer to Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Ambient Light Sensor Replacement in Lighting Systems. If equipped, remove the sun load sensor. Pull the windshield garnish molding from the A-pillar in order to disengage the retaining tabs and clips. Remove the windshield garnish molding from the A-pillar. Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Control Module Left side of the IP Removal Procedure Disconnect the battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical. Remove the instrument panel insulator. Refer to Instrument Panel Insulator Panel Replacement - Left Side in Instrument Panel, Gages and Console. Slide the daytime running lamp module from the bracket. Disconnect the electrical connectors.

The door jamb is built into the door latch, that's why you don't see the old style door jamb switch. The door lock is also built into the latch. May have other issues with the door locks.

It will be the sensor that triggers the fan relay or the relay itself that may be defective.Pop the fuse box cover off ,the one above the battery and locate a fan relay,(there is high and low) take the cover off the relay and push it down manually,this will test the fan circuit if the fan starts running when you close the relay manually.

It is typical problem and one of your most expert can diagnose it.That's why you should take it to a qualified repair shop . Sounds like you don't have any electrical trouble shooting skills . Short is in the wiring somewhere going back to the fuel pump . Not in the fuse box.

So what it only does it in park or neutral ! The vehicle starting circuit is only suppose to let it start in park or neutal . Park neutral safety switch won't allow B+ voltage to S terminal on the starter solenoid unless the vehicle is in park or neutral . It's probably the starter relay contacts stuck closed . You really should learn how it works before guessing as to the problem . Plus learn automotive electrical testing ! The ignition switch when turned to the start position send's a voltage signal to the PCM - engine computer .The PCM will energize the starter relay to crank the engine . PCM / ABS 10amp fuse in the I/P fuse box supply's B+ voltage to the park / neutral safety switch . When in park or neutral the B+ voltage goes through the control side of the relay to the PCM which will supply a ground to energize the starter relay .

Check the wires good, that go to starter. And the starter solenoid. Clean and tighten all starter wires. By by passing, and starting it direct tells me that there has to be a problem, in wires or ignition system. see if you have power to starter by testing the wire. Sounds like no click on start=no power to starter.

perhaps it is the compressor clutch or a bad earth ?? test it first too see what the probel is and if it lies with the compressor

The Fuel SENDING UNIT HAS FAILED And IS CAUSING This Fluxuation Of the GAGE, The Sending Unit Is Located IN the FUEL TANK & Requires TANK REMOVAL to Replace it,
NOTE;;;; IF YOU HAVE HAD THE FUEL PUMP REPLACED RECENTLY, THEN 99% PROBABILITY THAT THE INSTALLER WAS NOT VERY GENTEL WITH IT, THIS IS A COMMON REASON FOR THIS TYPE OF FAILURE.

Open the hood and look down between the rad and the engine and on the large a/c line is the low side port right close to the exhaust manifold so you can burn your hand easily.DO NOT add Freon to this system.It requires 134a refrigerant only.Be aware of aftermarket "refrigerants" with a EXPLOSIVE sticker or label on them.They are usually a mix of butane and/or propane.You may not want these products in your a/c system because in a collision situation where your vehicle interior a/c components become damaged/ruptured,a vehicle interior fire may not be a good thing for you at that time.

Use the engine mount on the front top of the engine,it's a convenient connection point for the negative cable when boosting.

If your system hasn't been flushed and run with green anti, then it takes Dexcool. I have long since converted my car over to green. **** dexcool will mess everything up

Its an easy job if you use a replacement strut assembly with the spring installed.These are best as you get a new top strut mount which includes a new top bearing ,a new spring and of coarse the new strut. 3 bolts at the top and a sway bar link to disconnect in the wheel well and 2 bolts at the strut/hub.If you do not buy an assembled strut DO NOT try to remove the spring without a GOOD spring compressor!!!!

Make sure the vehicle is safely on jacks,remove the wheels,remove the calipers (DO NOT REMOVE THE BRAKE HOSES FROM THE CALIPERS) and remove the caliper mounting brackets.The rotors should now almost fall off with a rap of a hammer at the hub area. Make sure the hub is free of rust and dirt before installing the new rotors.On reassembly ALL BOLTS must have THREAD LOCK applied to their threads as is factory procedure. NEVER USE ANTI-SEIZE ON ANY BRAKE BOLT THREADS!!!! Apply high temp silicone brake lube on caliper sliders and behind brake pads to eliminate squealing noisy brakes.

Could be the motor or a restriction in one of the tracks.

You can use the same fluid as you use in the automatic transmission in your van.

Usually it is a broken wire on one of the front wheels making intermittent contact inside the wires own plastic covering but could be a failing ABS component like a wheel sensor.Check for any ABS codes stored to help lead you to the failing area/wheel causing the trouble.