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Posted on Nov 10, 2012
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This machine was spinning with an uneven load and stopped working so I emptied the machine and took it apart. I found the shock absorber on the tub needed to be put back together so I fixed that problem and put it back together. It started to wash fine but now it has stopped in the middle of the wash and has 3" of water in the tub. Error code that comes up id E68? HELP!!!

1 Answer

Richard Roth

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  • Frigidaire Master 9,472 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 11, 2012
Richard Roth
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Joined: Nov 14, 2010
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The error E68 means the ccu has sensed a stuck button on the console. MANY times this is a false error and means that either the ccu or interface must be replaced, but SOMETIMES, there really is a stuck button. TRy to run a diagnostic using the instructions I have provided below, let me know if you need any help with it.
1. Press and hold Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. The buzzer will sound
1 time and "rES" will be shown briefly in the display.
2. Immediately after, rotate cycle selector knob 5 turns counter-clockwise to the second position from the bottom.
Press and hold the Options and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The control will enter test mode,
the buzzer will sound 3 times and all LED's will rapidly flash.
After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests:
Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:
0 turns: All LED's will flash.
1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. "H" and the control thermistor reading will toggle
back and forth in the display.
2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and "AF" (Air Fluff) is displayed.
3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LED's are lit and numbers appear in the
display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing
a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers decrease. In controls that
do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening the door (press in on door switch
plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the Damp LED
come on.
4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off.
Key test:
a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LED's should light.
b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LED's should light.
c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LED's should light.
d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
7-11 turns: All LED's will flash
To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power
from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation.
If you cant even enter this mode at all, your interface will have to be replaced. There is no way to determine whether its the intrface OR ccu, but in my experience, it's usualy the interface that ends up needing replacement. Here is the part to order.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2007

SOURCE: washer won't spin

Where is the outlet filter?

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Anonymous

  • 3422 Answers
  • Posted on May 06, 2008

SOURCE: Front loader will not spin

Hi,

You will have to get it repaired that's the only solution.
there being a bad connection wire between the motor and the control board.est the fuse(s) on the control board. If they are bad, then the control board is in need of replacement.

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 28, 2008

SOURCE: frigidaire frontloading washer won't spin at all

Have a GLTF2940. Error code E20 and E30 came up. Will not drain and spin.
What to do?

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Aug 23, 2008

SOURCE: Loud thumping while spinning

my friend had this happen,apparrently a bearing was leaking then finally broke!

Anonymous

  • 196 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 12, 2008

SOURCE: Washing Machine starts, squirts water, then stops.

E5E  IS FOR  Communication problem. THERE IS 100 %WIRE SHORTING SOMEWHERE.PLEASE CHECK OUT.
ALSO OTHER ERRORS Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem. 
E44 Control board problem. 
E45 Control board problem. 
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 To much soap.

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tip

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning

With the growing popularity of front load washers comes a whole different set of washer problems then what was experience with the older top load washers. Front load washers are built quite a bit differently and have many different parts than top load machines.

One of the most common problems with front load washers is that the shock absorbers that hold the tub in place can break. These shock absorbers steady the tub during the wash and spin cycles. It is when the spin is happening that they take the worst beating. It is also during the spin cycle that the breakage will be most evident. If your load is even a little bit out of balance and the shocks are broken, you machine may dance all over the floor and sound like an airplane about to take off. The tub will flounder around uncontrollably and the clothing will come out very wet because of the tubs inability to maintain the spin speed needed to wring out the water.

To see if your machine has broken shock absorbers, remove the bottom cover and look in. About halfway back on either side will be a small cylinder that moves in and out to absorb the movement of the tub. Often the loop that has a pin through it to secure it to the machine will be broken. Sometimes there will be no visible damage, but if you unhook one end of the shock, the slide movement will be very easy and there will be no resistance. The shock should be in and out fairly hard; this is what holds and steady’s the tub of the machine.

The parts are easy to find online by doing a search for “appliance parts” and then entering your model number in the box provided by most websites. The replacement is fairly easy and can be done by most people with a bit of patience and a few hand tools.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online


on Dec 18, 2009 • Washing Machines
0helpful
1answer

Frequent out of balance problem

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.
0helpful
1answer

I have a crosley front load washing machine . It has been leveled but it is still very loud VERY loud and shakes terribly during the rinse/ spin . Also, the clothes are sopping wet too! I can work on it...

your machine is not spinning fast enough due to imbalance-probably due to bearing failure or tub shock absorber failure-it sounds like you've been in her a few times- check tub for flopping-try to wiggle it by hand-cheers Denny
0helpful
1answer

Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...

hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.
0helpful
1answer

Machine has a bad vibration on the way to high spin, once there all is ok

The shock absorbers may need greasing, Put a bit of grease (the thick motor type) around where the smaller diameter part of the shock absorber enters the larger part, the take of the lid (isolate from mains) and give a a few hefty shoves on the drum downwards to help the grease to work in. Excessive knocking on the lead up to full spin could also be caused by an uneven load, the unit as a whole not being level or the unit being located on a joisted floor which increases vibration.
Hope this helps
1helpful
1answer

The machine is making a high pitched noise during the spin cycly

One of the most common problems with front load washers is that the shock absorbers that hold the tub in place can break. These shock absorbers steady the tub during the wash and spin cycles. It is when the spin is happening that they take the worst beating. It is also during the spin cycle that the breakage will be most evident. If your load is even a little bit out of balance and the shocks are broken, you machine may dance all over the floor and sound like an airplane about to take off. The tub will flounder around uncontrollably and the clothing will come out very wet because of the tubs inability to maintain the spin speed needed to wring out the water. To see if your machine has broken shock absorbers, remove the bottom cover and look in. About halfway back on either side will be a small cylinder that moves in and out to absorb the movement of the tub. Often the loop that has a pin through it to secure it to the machine will be broken. Sometimes there will be no visible damage, but if you unhook one end of the shock, the slide movement will be very easy and there will be no resistance. The shock should be in and out fairly hard; this is what holds and steady?s the tub of the machine. The parts are easy to find online by doing a search for ?appliance parts? and then entering your model number in the box provided by most websites. The replacement
0helpful
1answer

My 7 year old he3 has a terible thumping noise when in the very fast spin cycle it is like the tub is coming out. The spin cycle before last is not as bad. the shock absorber are ok I can take the front of...



Hi,


When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front load washers can make..

Washer Problems
Washer noise when spinning


heatman101

0helpful
1answer

In spin cycle the tub had been making loud noise. Then there was a knocking the last time or two. Then it stopped spinning. The tube won't turn at all. Is this the bearing? Does the tub need to be...

Just had the same problem last night; I took off the back and noticed that the 'shock absorber' was broken. http://www.partstore.com/Part/Electrolux/Frigidaire/fwt449gfs1/Electrolux/Frigidaire/134564200/New.aspx

Not sure if the same part is broken on yours.
1helpful
1answer

GHW9100LW1 outer front tub replacement. Is this a DIY project?

The first question I have is why to you want to replace the front tub? I had a problem with the metal tub knocking and gouging the front tub. When I took it apart, I found a broken bracket on the metal drum that caused it to spin off center.
If you want to replace the front tub, It is hard to get to, but it can be done. The front tub is held in place by two large springs at the top and 4 shock absorbers at the bottom. The shocks just turn 90 degrees and they can be disconnected.
Please be aware that there are three heave weights in the washer to make it run smooth during the spin cycle. Therefore, the tub assembly is heavy. There are also several wiring harnesses that have to be disconnected to get the tub out.
Once you get the tub out it is fairly easy to get the front off. There are about 20 clips that hold the front to the back tub.
It is a two man job since it is so heavy.
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