I have 2 10" Kicker comp subs powered by a punch 301m 900w amp. and the amp keeps cutting out. ive noticed if i take the fuse out of the power wire for a little biit and then put it back in, the amp will power up but end up cutting out again. Any ideas?
That amplifier is only rated at 150 watts at 4 ohms, or 300 watts at 2 ohms. Not a very strong amp to run 2 kicker comps. My guess is you have the subs wired wrong for your application. There are 2 types of subs, one is a dual 4 ohm, and one is a dual 2 ohm. Most people bridge these coils together and that cuts your ohms in half. For example. Lets say you have the 10cvr104 subs. Thats the dual 4 ohm sub. You wire the coils together in parallel, now its a 2 ohm sub. You have 2 of these subs running off of your amp, if they are hooked up in parallel, now you have a 1 ohm load, out of the amplifiers normal operation. Your amplifiers internals heat up really quick and there is a thermal overload, putting your amplifier into circuit protection mode. My suggestion for wiring your subs is as follows: for each speaker, wire the coils together like this- positive coil1 to negative coil 2 and negative coil 1 to positive coil 2. That is called running in series, and doubles your ohm load. Next, we need to wire the speakers together properly to hook up to your amplifier. For this, since the coils are hooked together, you only need to use one set of terminals from each sub. And take the positive from sub 1 and hook it to positive of amp. Take negative sub 1 and hook it to positive of sub 2. Take negative of sub 2 and hook it to negative of amp.
SOURCE: Rockford Fosgate 800a2 To 2 SVC 2ohm subs
Ok.. Bridge the two sub into 4ohm than bridge to amp.
So. this how it goes.
sub1 + -
to | |
sub2 - +
= 4ohm
From Sub
Two
- +
| |
amp (L) - + (R)- +
This will use the full potiental of RF 800a2 amp. I believe it like 1153 watts max out.
SOURCE: i have a Rockford Fosgate Puch 1000 watt amp "thermal" problem
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up without the thermal LED being lit, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still indicates that it's in thermal protection, it needs to be serviced. A local repair shop will be the quickest. Rockford will email you the schematics.
SOURCE: Sub Wiring
Hello jtkpay,
Rockford-Fosgate claims their latest V-power 1500bd is stable to 1 ohm, and I would think that your Oldschool would also be. The 2 wiring options for 3 subs with 2 ohm dvc would give you a 1.34 ohm load and a 3 ohm load. The 1.34 ohm option would mean more watts to the subs, but the amp will run hotter. The diagrams look like this:
Using just 2 of the Kickers, you can wire 3 different ways, with final impedances of 0.5 ohms, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms. You do not want the 0.5 ohm load. It's bad for the amp. You don't want the 8 ohm load. It doesn't allow the amp to produce as much power. So that leaves only the 2 ohm, with coils in series and subs in parallel. It looks like this:
Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".
SOURCE: Rockford fosgate 800 a2 amp power?
Hello desperate2le,
Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.
All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.
Hope this helps.
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