20 Most Recent Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

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if its cutting off and right back on then check your ground and your power wire makes sure both are connected good and none of your fuse's are blown, either that or you got a wire hooked up backwards in the sub.. but my guess is that the sub is hooked up wrong... that sub should be hooked up in a series or in parallel,

ok if your running just one speaker, it should be hooked up like this and 2 speakers are a different way...

this is parallel :pos to pos , neg to neg, then one wire coming from pos on sub to pos on amp then neg on sub to neg on amp but bridge the amp on your amp should be 2 pos and 2 neg in two different channels take the pos off the sub into the pos on 1 channel and then the neg from sub to the neg on the other channel,

this is series : on the sub it will go pos to neg then the other neg and pos will go to the amp, but make sure the pos and neg r on different sides of the sub, dont hook them both to the same coil

if your need more help give me your email and ill send you a pic of how to do it...

It sounds like the power supply failed. Generally when the supply fails in that amp, you have to replace all 8 of the power supply FETs and all 8 of the 47 ohm surface mount resistors. Many times, the supply fails because one or two of the output transistors have failed.

If you want to have JL repair it, you MUST go through an authorized JL dealer.

If you have a good local repair shop, they should be able to repair it.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Definitely check to make sure your amp and speaker enclosure are securely mounted to your vehicle, also check all wiring connections- it sounds like something is loose or there's a short. Secure everything and triple check all connections & I believe all will be well. If you need further help please don't hesitate to ask!

If you have the old ones that you are trying to replace, Radio shack has tons, as well as guides to show you how the bands are deciphered. Hope this helps

Check the remote lead and see if it is getting power at the amp when it won't come on that way you know if the issue is with the head unit or the amplifier.

Hello, I repair amps for a living. I do Cadence & JL Audio warranty repairs for those companies. I also have the cheapest prices available in the USA. If you want your amp repaired buy a certified JL audio repair business for a whole lot les than other amp repair shops than send me a message and I will be glad to get your amp up and running again. Also tell me a little more as to why it does'nt work or if you got it that way. If you e-mail me or send a message thru this site I will give you my business number so we can talk. I like to speak to customers one on one, many amp repair people don't do this. I'd be worrysome of those who don't wanna speak directly to you. Plus I have over 17 years experience and I am also a certified electronics egineer and a certified electronics tech which led me to build 2 class D mono amps. One is 1200 watt rms @ 1ohm and the other is 2200 watts rms @ 1ohm. So I do know what i am doing. Also I have never had an amp come back, and that says alot. I hope I can help you out. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d

I am assuming these are subs, you didnt say, but that is my guess. do you want bass, or do you want to take it easy on your amp? do you have a terminal cup on your sub box, or just wires going into the box to the speakers? take it easy route: wire positive from amp to positive of one speaker, negative of amp to negative of the other speaker, with a jumper wire connecting the negative of the first speaker, to the positive of the second.more bass route: run seperate positive and negative wires to each speaker, making sure to maintain proper polarity.

here is a manual for your subwoofers: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/8-12W6_BDS.pdf

use the wiring diagram for 1.5? (1.5ohm) with 2 speakers. the diagram for 3 speakers will not work, because it would bring the load down to 1 ohm, and the amp cannot go below 1.5 ohm.

to set up the amp:

under "preamp output section", on the "output mode" switch, select "amp filter"

to set up the levels: start with the amp gain pretty far down- with the input voltage on low for line level outputs from the deck, and on high for speaker outputs from the deck. now turn your cd deck as far up as it will go until it distorts, then turn the cd deck down to just where it stops distorting. now, you can start to turn up the gain on the amp.

on the filters, youll prolly want the cutoff filter around 100hz @ 24db slope. start with the infrasonic filters off, but, if you do get into them, try centering between 30 and 60hz on either, and, possibly dropping the cutoff filter to 80hz.

What happened right before it stopped working?

It sounds like the main power transistors may be bad. Common with big amplifiers. The transistors can be better tested out of the circut. Sometimes only a few are the ones causing the fault. They may not all be bad. It is always recomended to replace a transistor with the same part. If the correct part is not avalible you can usually substitute it with one of similar specifications. Replacements can be better or worse, usually no noticable difference is present. Also there are usually very low ohm resistors that may be damaged usually connected near the transistor. It takes a very sensitive meter to check them so I replace them too while I have it apart and to ensure correct operation. C2559 is the part you have. It does not cross to any radio shack (Archer) numbers... It does cross to other # avalible online at DiGiKey.com.