Top 20 Frigidaire GLTF1240A Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

take out plug look at motor carbons replace if worn

Direct drive or belt drive? If belt drive then thats easy, motor belt or pulley. Direct drive? motor, ,,, maybe.

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occurs. Removing and Cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there is gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.

Check for tips on the link below to identify parts and removal:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7

I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(suggestions/guidance!)
This sounds very much like the belt is broken or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belt first.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. It's your choice!

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about what I found out about the fabric softener not dispensing into the washer...

Fridgidaire Washing Machine Fabric Softner not going into washer

heatman101

Hello....My name is Keith.....Please give me one moment and I will start to address the issue.

Thank You....

could be the door latch, there is a wax motor in it that closes just for the high spin, if the computer (board) doesnt get that signal it won't go into high spin

Hello, thanks for your post. From your model number and brand here is the part# 131889800 and cost around $60.

Happy Holidays!
Please rate me "4 thumbs" if I helped you on this free post.

Probably your pump, bra wires and bobby pins are the worst culprit. check that the vanes on the impeller are not chewed or worn.

Check your cold water inlet for water flow. The filter screen might be clogged with debris. If there is no debris, you might need a new water inlet valve. It relatively inexpensive and easy to change. You can find them at any appliance supply outlet.

Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663122-washer_problems_washer_noise_when

heatman101

no they just ware out and burn out

your bearing is gone. needs a new tub assembly. its pricy

I would suspect a faulty motor control board. not much you can do to test it unfortunately, aside to replacing it and see if that fixes the problem, but definitely the best guess. Also known as a speed board.

It sounds like the rubber door bellow is leaking. You may have a loose clamp that secures it to the drum, which could have happened during shipping. Or, you may have a small rip or tear in the bellow, leaking drain hose(s), or drain pump. In any case, if you just purchased this washer, the washer comes with a one year limited warranty and should be repaired at no cost to you. I would not recommend trying to disassemble anything as this will void any existing warranty you may have. I would recommend you contact the dealership in which you purchased the appliance from or find a reputable appliance repair company. Sears repairs all major brands regardless or whether or not you purchased it from. If you cannot find your purchase receipt, the validity of your warranty will be determined by the date of manufacture on your appliance (which is the SERIAL NUMBER). I hope you find this information encouraging and helpful.

You need to check pump assembly....

well u definitly have a leak may be just a hose or a pump problem u need to flip it over to check where the leak is then post again

check amp pull at motor, use amp clamp on one wire going to motor,
check FLA on side of motor. if pulling LRA motor is bad.