IF UNDER WARRANTY , CALL FOR FREE SERVICE.
IF HAPPY WITH COLD WASH AND RINCE, YOU CAN
CONNECT BOTH MACINE HOSES TO A Y FITTING.
CHOOSE A GOOD QUALITY 5/8 INCH BRASS Y GARDEN HOSE FITTING.
SHUT OFF BOTH HOT AND COLD WATER TAPS.
NOW IS THE TIME TO DISCONNECT BOTH MACINE
HOSE AND CLEAN ANY DIRT IN THEIR SCREENS
OR BUY NEW GOOD QUALITY HOSES. HOSES ARE AVAILABLE WITH AN ' ANGLED' END FOR USE IN TIGHT SPACES. ALWAYS USE NEW WASHERS.
CONNECT CLEANED OR NEW HOSES TO MACHINE.
CONNECT Y 's STRAIGHT INLET TO COLD WATER TAP. CONNECT BOTH MACHINE HOSES TO THE Y
OUTLET. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TWIST HOSES.
WHEN HOSES ARE ALMOST TIGHT, TURN THEM
IN THE FITTING SO THEY ARE OK WHEN FITTINGS ARE TIGHTENED.
TURN ON COLD WATER TAP. CHECK FOR LEAKS.
YOU MAY WISH TO CONNECT A HOSE TO THE HOT WATER TAP FOR FUTURE USE. I USE AN OLD SPARE WASHING MACHINE HOSE. I ALSO CUT A FEW
INCHES OFF OF IT, FOR A SMOOTH END.
first of all the customer control knob has to be taken out using a screw driver it can be pushed from inside to be moved out. Next make sure that all the connections are tagged and labelled as a wrong connection might damage the timer unit. Once this is done the wiring can be taken and each section tagged together with separate labels. Now the holding nut can be removed and the timer can be taken out.
That is quite normal. When the rince cycle is on, it sprays water into the tub while spinning. In that way, it removes small traces of residule soap still on the clothes.Of course it should stop once the spin cycle is finnished.
Sounds like the selenoid valves are backwards. Or the water hooked up backwards. Or actually like the cold water one isnt working at all. Either the selenoid or the screen stopped up. Even on cold water i noticed that some washers use warm. But all of them uses cold water to rinse. At least the last rinse. So when it uses cold water there isnt any. First of all, Switch the two wires with each other and wash on hot and see if cold works then. If not Take the selenoid out and apart then clean the diaphram real good with soap and water then pup back together.
Have you tried balancing your washer? You have four adjustable feet under your washer. They are located on each corner of the bottom of your washer. They are only bolt threads. If you have overloaded your washer to which it is off set, you can adjust the feet to balance the washer. Be sure to unplug the washer first. Make sure you are clear of any electrical shock. Safety first!
I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>>
So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced.
From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
..
If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.
es, in order to remove the top of a Maytag LSE1000 washing machine, you'll need to first disconnect any attached wires. This is because the wires are connecting important components like the control panel and the sensors to the rest of the machine.
Here are the steps you can follow to safely disconnect the wires:
Unplug the washing machine: Before you begin, make sure to unplug the machine from the power source to prevent any electrical shock.
Locate the wires: Look for the wires that are connecting the top of the machine to the rest of the machine. They should be near the back of the machine where the top and bottom halves of the machine meet.
Label the wires: Label the wires so you know which wire goes where when you're ready to put the machine back together. You can use masking tape and a marker to label each wire.
Disconnect the wires: Gently pull the wires from their connectors, making sure to keep them separated so they don't get tangled. Be careful not to pull too hard, as this could damage the wires or the connectors.
Repeat the process for all the wires: Repeat the process for each wire until they're all disconnected.
Once you've disconnected all the wires, you should be able to remove the top of the machine. Make sure to keep the wires organized and in a safe place while you're working on the machine. When you're ready to reassemble the machine, simply reconnect the wires in the reverse order you disconnected them.
Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail.
Helpful?
Good luck on your troubleshooting!
