20 Most Recent Power Acoustik LT-980/2 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 2 Questions & Answers

do you need help just for the power or for the audio or both?

power it is simple
positive goes to the battery but with a fuse in the middle
negative goes to a metal ground point on the car (but not battery)
remote goes to the radio with should have a blue and white cable if radio does not have remote line then use the acc wire from radio

for sound
your amp does two speakers and im guessing you want the back ones amplified
so cut the 4 wires that come from the radio and goes to the back speakers 2 positive and two negative
and connect this to the input the phono terminals on the back (unless your radio has phono terminals for audio out on the back side

then take the output from the amp and run it to the speakers one positive and negative to each speaker

i cant seem to find a wiring diagram for that amplifier but i can give you a more genral diagram
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/how_to_install_a_car_amp/how_to_install_a_car_amp.htm

Es recomendado que la instalacion de estos equipos sea por un profesional para aprobechar todo el potencial de estos equipos especialmente para que luego de la instalacion no vaya ha causar ruido pero si desea seguir le puedo indicar paso a paso

There are really only two possibilities here. If you have the gain turned up too high then your amp will get over worked and will go into protect mode. It is a safety feature. You should never really have the gain at much over 50% up. If you have to consistently run it higher than that you are overworking your amp and it will either shut down to protect itself or you will fry it.

Hello goodgawdz,

It's possible that when switched to amplify all frequencies, the amp drew excessive current and fried the outputs. It's also possible that the speakers were damaged. I'd recommend disconnecting everything except ground, power, and remote and see if the amp powers up normally. If it doesn't, the amp outputs are probably faulty. If it does power up normally, check the speakers and their wiring.

What you need to check is the impedance that you are connecting at. If you are using for sub woofers... you need to check how you wire them up. If you are using bridge mode then make sure that you have a 4 ohm load. This is possible with a single coil woofer which has an impedance of 4 ohm.

If you have a single dvc woofer, then you would have to either wire it up in stereo with a 4 ohm coil to each channel. If you would like to run it in brifge mode then you would have to invest in a single dual 2 ohm sub woofer and connect it with the coils in series thus obtaining a 4 ohm load.

If you have multiple woofers then it becomes more tricky. You can use a channel amp in bridge mode by getting 2 dual 4 ohm dvc woofers. You would have to connect the woofers themselves in parrallel but to the amplifier, you MUST have the woofers in series with each other. Thus getting a 4 ohm bridged load on the amplifier.

Connecting this amplifier any other way can cause it to overheat and fail.

hope this helps you

i wish i can chat to you live so i can ask you qestions about your amp but to figure out what section of the amp might be fried it could be the power supply section could be the out put section or the in put section but i would try process of elimulation try unplugging your rca jacks and your subs unhook to your amp just the power hook up and try powering it but if the protection light steel comes on then try to remeber the last time your amp was working good and playing your subs was your amp getting hot if so you probaly fried your out put chips and not telling what else next question was you just hooking your amp up in your car and acually touch one of the power wire to the ground on your amp this happen to my friend and fried the power circuit relay chip on the power supply thats all the advice i can give but usually when the protection light comes on and you got every thing hook up right something fried

YOU ARE PICKING ENGINE NOISE INSTALL A NOISE SUPPRESSOR TO YOUR SYSTEM AND ADJUST THE GAIN ON THE AMP TO 3/4 LEVEL PLAY SYSTEM AT LOW VOLUME AND START CAR REV ENGINE A FEW TIME AND LISTEN FOR NOISE CHECK ALL GROUND MAKE SURE THEY AR VERY TIGHT

it can be used as a bass amp. if each pair of channels is bridged then you will basically have a 2 channel amp. just be sure to set the x-over's to lpf for subwoofers. I checked the power ratings, and bridged at a 4 ohm load will give you 250 rms watts per sub, so thats enough to run most 10's or 12's. there wasnt a rating for a 2 ohm load, but your amp should support it.

You have no audio because it's in protect mode, could have a short in the speaker connections or one of the speakers - try it with speaker wires disconnected at the amp and also with a different pair of known good 16 ohm speakers. If the protect mode light doesn't go out then you may have cooked a driver and it will need to go to a shop.

go to rockfordfosgate.com

Recheck the fuse on the amp, if the fuse is good, try replacing it anyway, if that doesn't work your amp has blown an internal component, (most likely an output transistor). it is probably cheaper to replace the amp than repair it. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

Yes there's a way to fix that. The best way to fix that is to bring it to your supplier (if it has warranty and in terms and conditions) or to a certified repairman in your area.

check that your ground wire is connected properly to both your amp and body of vehcile you may need a thicker earth wire

CALL BOSE THEM SELF..OR A BOSE REPAIR SHOP THEY WILL GET THEM FOR YOU.......
THEN TAKE THE AMP APART DESOLDER THE HOLDERS AND REPLACE THEM YOU CAN GET A REAL CHEAP SOLDERING IRON AND SOLDER @ RADIO SHACK CALL A REPAIR PLACE.....FIX IT YOUR SELF SAVE YOUR SELF A LOT OF MONEY AS LONG YOU DID NOT BURN UP COMPONENTS TAKE A LOOK INSIDE FIRST BEFORE YOU BUY ANYTHING GOOD LUCK

That usually means that its not getting power from battery check fuse underhood and in amp. Make shure the power wire isnt pinched to . Hope this helps

yes

Hello. Check that there is a minimum of 12 volts present across the ground and B+ terminals as the remote leed is connected. If the voltage is OK then there may be an internal fault even though the gauges light up. Be sure the RCA ground has continuity with the 12 volt ground and that the speakers function. Sound Repair 321-690-0808.

It sounds like the switching power supply has failed.

You need to find a local repair shop. If you don't know of any, contact the local car audio dealers to see who they use. If several recommend the same shop, they probably do good work.

If you want to try to repair it yourself, you'd have to do a bit of troubleshooting.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Friend be sure that you got the right current in your speaker, if you do as you have said it is only a quarter of the way up the scale, Try this: try a lower speaker ohmic value, if there is an available ohmic value next to the speaker you are using now. Test it the way you do to the spreaker you are using now.
Try also to recheck the current in your speaker, if reading is now different, compare it to your manual. If it it below the manual try to connect a speaker with lower ohmic value, if its above, connect a speaker with a higher ohmic value.
P.S. please don't forget to rate.