Top 20 Whirlpool LGB6300 Gas Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Is this a gas or electric? model number please

hi..A squeeky dryer is usually a worn belt.It is better
to replace it.once you replace it you wont get that
noise.
try this out..
thank u..
kindly rate my response..

check the thermostat and the heating element may be damaged

below the door the panel is held onto the frame with clips. Use a putty knife to get it out yer way.
GAS DRYER INFO
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

there is a flame sensor/ thermocouple where the flame is, it's not picking up the heat off the flame. sometimes you can clean it with a piece of sand paper. if not, it needs to be replaced by a professional

What you have is probably some intermittant gas coils. they get hot and quit. later they cool down and work a little more. I have the pictures and advice right HERE
NOTE: here is ever more WISDOM
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You need to change the glow plug

I have a strong feeling the motor is seized or at least in the process of... I would recommend a new motor. If you are mechanically inclined, it's a very easy process. If you need help, I would be more than help to walk you through it.

no pilot glow bar ignition

Yank out the filter
Remove the 2 screws from the top at the filter housing.
Pop the top and remove the front
then lift out the drum.
Belt number 341241
Configuration and more good stuff HERE
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

pop the top off

• Get on with replacing the gas valve coils shown to you in the previous link, it will take care of your problem.
• There are two house circuits/fuses in an electric dryer's circuit.
  If one of them is tripped/blown, the drum may turn, but the heater will not operate. Reset the circuit breaker or replace the house fuse.
• Outlet wired incorrectly.
  Have a qualified electrician verify that the supply voltage is correct.
• Gas supply valve to a gas dryer is not open.
  Open the gas supply valve. See Installation Instructions for details.
• LP gas supply tank is empty or there has been a utility interruption of natural gas.
  Refill or replace the LP tank. Call your natural gas utility company.
• Dryer does not have enough air supply to support the gas burner.
  The dryer needs space around it for proper ventilation. Do not stack or place laundry or throw rugs against the front or back of the dryer. See Installation Instructions for details about installing a dryer in a closet or alcove.
• Incorrect cycle or temperature has been selected.
  If the Air Fluff cycle or temperature is selected, the dryer will tumble without heat. Each cycle ends with a Cool Down period during which the load tumbles without heat. Check the location of the indicator on the Cycle Selector knob.

There are about seven different possiblities and the prospective solution in each case appears to be replacement of a different part! I suppose if you have the proper testing equipment for assessing each of those parts, you might be favored with a relatively inexpensive fix. I would be embarassed to suggest you replace all in sequence until the dryer works. Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety mechanism that prevents the dryer from overheating. If it blows, the dryer won't heat. Check if the thermal fuse is intact and replace it if necessary. Cycling Thermostat: The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature inside the dryer drum. If it's faulty, the dryer may not heat properly. Consider checking and replacing the cycling thermostat. Igniter: The igniter is responsible for lighting the gas burner. If it's defective, the dryer won't ignite. Inspect the igniter for any signs of damage or malfunction. Gas Valve Coils: Although you've already replaced them, double-check the gas valve coils. Sometimes, even new parts can fail. Ensure they are securely connected and functioning correctly. Ventilation: Poor ventilation can lead to longer drying times and affect ignition. Make sure the dryer vent is clean and not obstructed. A clogged vent can cause overheating and affect ignition. Door Switch: The door switch ensures the dryer doesn't operate when the door is open. If it's faulty, the dryer won't start or heat. Verify that the door switch is functioning properly. Timer and Controls: Check if the timer advances correctly during the drying cycle. Malfunctioning controls can impact ignition. Inspect the timer and control board for any issues. Whirlpool Dryer WGD4800XQ1 - OEM Parts & Repair Help - PartSelect.com

A "F4E4" (Low or No Line Voltage) code indicates there may be a problem with your home power supply, keeping the dryer's heater from turning on. The dryer will continue to run when this diagnostic code is present. Touch any pad to clear the code from the display and return to the estimated time remaining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nc_ERaNw4w This video may help you.

Push to start relay switch. NOTE: If the dryer will not start check the thermal fuse before ordering start switch. The switch is often not the cause of the dryer failing to start. pull the knob off the switch the answer should be visible

Never 'hit' the Start Button, always press it gently. It is part of the main control board. Whirlpool dryers can be reset by disconnecting the power from the wall socket overnight. Apart from that, you would need to disassemble it and check the Thermal Cut Out, the Thermal Fuse and the Thermostat with a digital multimeter.

Is There a Reset Button for Whirlpool Dryers?

Hunker https://www.hunker.com > ... > Washer & Dryers This is done by pressing "Start" for a few seconds to restart the dryer. If the dryer does not restart automatically, select a new cycle and any options then ... ..

possible bad motor

Question edited for clarity. You normally get inside them from the top and front. What are you trying to do? That is the important part! This gives generic advice https://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+dryer+wed7500gwo+belt+replacement ..

wow, that is a tale of woe. Well E1 is definitely the thermistor, but you can check it with a multimeter. It may be a bad batch, or it could be the wiring. You should never replace components on guesses, fuses and elements are an easy test. The remanufactured board may also be at fault. The unscrupulous take them off machines, clean them and sell them on untested. https://www.google.com/search?q=E1+Error+on+Whirlpool+Duet+Dryer ..