Hotpoint First Edition WMA20 Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It might just need a reset. Press the Pause and off button, then pull the plug from the wall. Wait ten minutes and power it up again. Check the door very carefully, make sure it is shutting correctly. Try a restart.

you have to remove the soap drawer complete and view above where it slides in. you will see several holes where the water sprays out these holes get blocked, you will need to get a washing up brush invert it and scrub these holes as clear as possible (pay particular attention to the ones above the fab cond slot). this may need to be done at least once a month, also the soap tray will need to be stripped and cleaned also.

J is for silks - 30 degrees

i had this trouble for ages, u have to tip it on its side or bck as the filter is up underneath

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Are your clothes coming out still wet which is why it appears that the spinning speed is too slow?
It COULD be that there is water still left in the washer which the drain pump/motor has been unable to remove. It's a common problem!

So I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.)

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

is warer going into the washer when it starts?

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I advise following my guidance notes on ensuring the machine is absolutely level before anything else ;-0)
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It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly!
Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning.

Good luck,

John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France, Tues afternoon 15:32

My couple of thoughts!
Can you hear the motor running at all? If you can then it could be the belt which has either come off or is broken. If it is not running it could be the brushes BUT a word of warning- some have found that just having the brushes changed but not having the motor refurbished (having the commutator on which the brushes run/sit skimmed) has meant that the new brushes, not seating correctly, last only months. I replaced our Bosch motor after 17-18-19 years of steady use 1) because it was a difficult job to do! and 2) because of the experience of others. It did cost £250 but it will probably outlast us (I'm 70 this year)!!!
Following is my standard/generic response re belts (by the way if the belt has come off purchase a replacement, don't put the old one back on 'cos it will only come off again!)
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Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
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Hope this is your problem solved.
Good luck,
John C

probably there's some hole underneath the cause by rats bite or some broken or lose parts not tighten

THE IS SOMETHING STUCK IN YOUR DRAIN PUMP

Removed lower rear panel of washer.
Undo 2 screws securing motor to outer drum casing, unplug motor lead and remove motor, brushes ar e located at the end of the motor furthest away from the motor pulley.

Filter is tbe found by removing lower rear cover of washer, and removing the large black hose fastened to bottom of drum, remove and clean plastic filter inside the hose.

Very easy, just remove the lower rear cover of washer, you will see where the hose is fastened to the pump, remove the clip and hose, fit new hose, and job done.

There are many reasons why it won't drain 1 the pump has gone. 2 is something is blocked in the pump. 3 the drain is blocked so won't drain. To see if it will drain turn machine on put on spin and press start if it still won't drain but making a sound like it is trying you need to pull out machine and check drain hose and drain for blockages. But if pump making no sound then the pump has probably gone and needs replacing.

It could mean that either the bearings or the spider needs to be replaced. If you try to spin the wash basket by hand, does it turn smooth and quiet or do you hear a rumble sound? If it is noisy, it probally needs a bearing change. To change the bearing, the washer has to be taken completely appart to get access to the bearing. The parts cost are relatively inexpensive, but the labor costs is high due to the time to disassemble and reassemble the washer. If you are handy, and have the tools, you can buy the parts and do it yourself. You have to decide whether it is worth spending the time and money to fix or to purchase a new machine.

Here are a series of free videos to help you with your bearing problems and how to fix them
For all your free videos on appliance repairs remember to mark us down and leave feed back please
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This first video shows you how to diagnose the problem


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The next Hotpoint video is on how to take the drum out


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This Hotpoint video will show you how to change the bearings in the drum tub


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the last one will show you how to change the spider or drum support as they are known


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The spindle is groved, so you need to move the belt back just a little. Try moving it about 2 groves back. Only other thing is if motor has been removed for some reason, and put back without washers or spacers.

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If no water comes out of the hose when you lower it into the bowl then you have a blockage and will need to bail the water out of the drum using a mug or jug. Tilt the machine backwards and you should be able to open the door keep it tilted by putting your tin of soup under it. When it is empty remove the tin of soup and tilt the machine forward, place it under it again and put a bowl or basin under the sump. Remove it from the container and you should be able to pull the filter out at this point but if not remove the other end from the pump and clean the whole thing out in the sink. If there is no evidence of a blockage in the sump filter check the outlet hose especially if it was connected to an under sink U bend.

Hi Gary,It sounds to me that you have a blockage within the pressure systemas this is a classic sign. If you take the top off the machine you will see a round switch with a few wires going to it.This is the pressure switch. at the bottom of this switch is a thin pipe,normally black or clear. there is a small spring clip holding this pipe to the switch, If you remove this pipe and gently blow down it you will probably find it is blocked. You will then need to follow this pipe to the bottom of your machine. At the bottom of the machine where this pipe is fitted you will see there is a chamber and it is this chamber likly to be blocked.Some times you may clear this with a small piece of wire by removing the small pipe and poke wire through, but best way is to see how this chamber is removed and remove it for cleaning.Ensure machine is off at mains. this chamber fills with water and causes air pressure within the switch at the top of machine, which in turn tells programe when machine is full and also when empty. If this fails then machine will not turn off water supply as long as it is on. there fore when you reconnect parts ensure they are tight and clips back in place. Good luck and hope this works. Failing this working you may need to call an engineer to check switch and possible fault on board.

you can only change the seal as this is a common fault with low tep washing Follow these steps to replace your door seal:

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Disconnect all power to the machine first!!

1 Locate the outer clamp band securing the seal to the door rim on the washing machine and examine it carefully for holes or tears. Many can be prised off with a flat-bladed screwdriver they have a spring system holding them, but some have a tensioning arrangement that has to be loosened.
2 After removing the outer clamp band, locate the inner one securing the seal to the drum and establish how this is secured. It may be necessary to loosen a clip, or you may be able to prise the band off with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Some are like very large Jubilee clips that you have to undo usually from the top.
3 Once the clamp bands have been removed, use both hands to pull the seal away from the inner drum rim. Some machines have a water spout holes that will have to be lined up. Others have a drain holes.
4 Rubbing a drop of washing up liquid into the groove on the door seal/gasket that locates on the drum makes fitting the new seal easier.
5 the new washing machine door seal should be fitted by locating the drain holes at the bottom of the seal first then push it on with both hands working opposite directions towards the top. This is quite hard if you have never done it before.
6 refit the inner band remembering this must be tensioned correctly for it to be water tight.
7 now fit the outer band and the test the machine for any leaks,

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Information provided is a guide only. aPart4u accepts no liability for any problems occurring whilst attempting any advice shown. If in any doubt about fixing your appliance, always contact a qualified repairer.