20 Most Recent True T-23DT Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Steve True MFG. will answer that question for you at link below. You will need two things to get that answer and that is Model Number and Serial Number. Click HERE=> Ask Our True Service Technician If helpful please rate this solution, Thank You, Sea Breeze

Two obvious possibilites. One, it may not be the only unit on that circuit. If you have a 15 or 20 amp breaker, and have more than one unit like this, you are pulling too many amps for the breaker.That happens frequently. The other possibility is a dead short somewhere in the unit. Try plugging it in to a different outlet that you know has nothing else on that circuit. If it comes on and runs, You need to run a didicated circuit for this freezer only. A dead short in the machine will kick any outlet that it is plugged into. You will have to isolate each circuit in the freezer to find which one is grounded out.

Try cleaning the condenser of dust. And check the evaporator fans as well.

Unit is obviously in defrost too long. Verify defrost clock operation and time setting.You may reduce the amount of minutes per cycle that defrost is actually called on for . 20 minutes should be adequate if you are defrosting more than once per 24 hrs. Defrost clock should have "X" terminal which will terminate defrost once evaporator coils reach a certain temp. It is controlled by a three wire defrost thermostat relay(clixon) attatched to the actual coil in the event this coil reaches 50 degree,the clixon triggers the "X" wire in the timer and terminates defrosting.It figures if it reaches 50 degrees,it must then be free of ice on the coils

If it takes 3 months for this ice to form, it is most likely not a drain problem.
Let's look at a few things.
The evap could have 2 heaters that are used to clear the frost/ice. One imbedded in the coil and one in the drain pan. The one in the drain pan can be malfunctioning. (Burned out, burnt wire, etc.)
Another issue could be, when it comes out of defrost, the fan delay is not working so it starts as soon as defrost is terminated. This causes the water droplets on the evap to be blown out and onto the back wall or drip down and find it's way to the drain pan bottom.
Over stocking the unit can also cause this. Don't do anything that can restrict air flow around the evap.
Also, be sure the door closes and seals completely around all sides. Most all of these units have some way for the door to close on it's own. Test by opening the door about 45 degrees and then let go. It should close and seal.
Another thing to check is to see if there are the correct amount of defrost cycles. Should be 4 at 30 minutes each as a general rule of thumb. You may have not have enough or possibly the defrost cycles are being terminated too early by the termination control.
You can check to be sure that the end of the drain line is not being blocked by improper installation. You can have this issue and still be able to blow air through. Don't let that fool you. Be sure it lays sideways in the drain pan, if it has one. If not, it may drain freely into a floor drain. If so, check to see if air is being sucked into the drain line while the unit is running. It could **** moisture into the evap area and cause icing.

There a several things to look into. Hope this helps and good luck.
Let me know how you come out on this.

Question edited for clarity. The Service Manual says that the wiring diagram is hidden in various parts of the unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1177583/True-Gdm-Series.html?page=43&term=wiring+diagram&selected=1#manual It doesn't appear to be all in one place, but you could contact their Customer Service, or Technical Service Department? https://www.google.com/search?q=true+gdm-35em+wiring+diagram ..

If the left-hand door of your True TBB-3G fridge is sagging and creating an air gap at the bottom of the frame where it meets the cooler, here are some steps you can take to fix the issue:

1. Check the door hinges: Inspect the hinges on the door and the frame of the fridge. Look for any damage or wear that may be causing the door to sag. If the hinges are damaged, they may need to be replaced.
2. Adjust the door hinges: If the hinges are in good condition, try adjusting them to see if this resolves the issue. Use a wrench to loosen the screws that hold the hinges in place, and then adjust the hinges up or down as needed to align the door with the frame. Tighten the screws back in place when you are finished.
3. Check the door gasket: If the door gasket is worn or damaged, it may not be sealing properly and causing air gaps. Check the gasket for any damage or signs of wear, and replace it if necessary.
4. Check the door closer: The door closer on the left-hand side may be damaged or worn, causing the door to sag. Inspect the closer and look for any signs of damage. If it is damaged, it may need to be replaced.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, you may need to contact a professional repair service to help diagnose and fix the problem.

It's possible that the issue may be with the thermostat or the compressor. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may not be regulating the temperature correctly. Similarly, if the compressor is not working properly, it may not be able to cool the fridge down to the desired temperature. It's best to have a professional take a look and diagnose the issue. Another possible cause is the refrigerant levels, if the refrigerant is low this can cause the compressor not being able to cool the fridge properly and will need to be refilled by a professional.

This is a $3,600 commercial undercounter fridge. Great make and I have used many of them in my 50 year catering career. There is nothing on fixing Error 13. Pages 76 and 79 state 'Communication Error'.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS - NET

https://dc2kentprodcontent.blob.core.windows.net > ... PDF TDM (True Display Merchandiser) Refrigerator. Holds 33?F to 41?F (0.5?C to 5?C), ... Temperature. Communication error. E13. -. CURRENT CONTROL DISPLAY. Contact Technical Support direct for how to fix. https://www.truemfg.com/NA/Products/Bajo-Mostrador/TUC-24G-HC~FGD01 ..

The freezer door being open all night cause the compressor to run all night continuously trying to cool the unit down. This caused an increase in resistance and tripped the breaker. It may stabilise, but it may need a service call to fix the issue. It may also be a lazy breaker and it is the breaker that needs swapping out. you can normally compare them against adjacent breaker, a lazy one feels soft and doesn't snap of Off when you move is slowly to the Off position. They also feel different when switching to On. I have spent a 50 year career in catering and hospitality fighting fridges and freezers, electrics and plumbing. Now retired :>) Get this fixed by Easter because in my experience, it will break down on Saturday at 8:00pm!

You mean 'low as it can go', talking temperature not numbers. The temperature is too high. You need a refrigeration engineer. You either need a top up of gas or the thermostat has failed. They are great fridges, I have had lots of them in my career.

GDM-49-HC~TSL01 - Glass Door Merchandiser - North ...

https://www.truemfg.com > Products > GDM-49-HC~T... ... please change your settings to allow JavaScript. True Foodservice Icon blue with utensils ... GDM-49-HC~TSL01. Glass Door Merchandiser. Compare.

If you hear a clicking noise coming from the compressor there is about a 80% chance that the compressor is dead. But you'll have to call someone out to be sure. If the fan motor behind the grill is running (condenser fan) then the compressor should be running and vice versa. If the compressor is hot as a pistol and clicking and the fan motor is not working then it may cool down if you shut it off and you might just have a bad fan motor. With power turned off the condenser fan motor should freely spin. Compressor have a 5 year warranty from the manufacture not including labor and additional materials. Hope this helps.

without knowing age of unit, I suggest replacing the motor. Sounds like the armature is worn the bearings and is moving inside the windings of the motor. I would do that first before moving forward with any other repairs.

Please forward model and serial so I can be sure I am addressing the correct unit. Thanks.