20 Most Recent True T-49 Side by Side Refrigerator Commercial Questions & Answers

This is what I came up with. Just pass the screw through the nail puller in a flat bar. Use a block of wood to protect the door, and press down on the other end. A lot easier than anything else I've tried.

A T-49F is a freezer - a T-49 is a cooler and has no defrost timer or heater. If it's freezing up the thermostat needs to be checked. The coolers use a thermostat to check inside coil temperature and typically cycle off when the coil reaches somewhere around 15f and then cycles back on when the coil reaches around 40f. For this reason the box temperature when empty will make wild swings

A T-49F is a freezer - a T-49 is a cooler and has no defrost timer or heater. If it's freezing up the thermostat needs to be checked. The coolers use a thermostat to check inside coil temperature and typically cycle off when the coil reaches somewhere around 15f and then cycles back on when the coil reaches around 40f. For this reason the box temperature when empty will make wild swings.

Are the thermostats failing closed or open? If they are failing closed is there a start capacitor on the compressor? If there is a start capacitor make sure it has a bleed resistor.

Go to the T-49 parts list and page 7 by scrolling down=> HERE The evaporator is on top of your refrigerator as illustrated on page 7. You are simply going to have to defrost any ice blocking the defrost drain and by using a turkey baster force hot water with Clorox through the drain elbow from the back drain line to clear the blockage Appliance 911

I believe you need to buy and install new door hinges.

You can contact any commercial refrigeration company. I just searched for Miami commercial refrigeration on google and several company's are listed. Please let me know if you need any further information.

Call True in St. Louis and get a name of a supplier that carries factory parts. After market just doesn't work as well as you've noticed. Hope this helps and good luck.

Generally if you are using the factory seals you never have a problem unless you've damaged the retainer that holds the dart. After market gaskets wont work as well it has to do with the magnet strength, thickness, etc. call True in St Louis if you have to, to get the supplier. Good luck, hope this helped.

Sounds like you are letting the refrigerator sit in an unheated space at night. Those refrigerators have minimum temperature ratings as well as maximum temps. True Mfg. Can be more specific but I say not under 60deg F. Good luck hope this helps.

The cooling coil is probably frozen up. Shut it off and leave the door open over night. Start it up in the morning and see if its more accurate. Down the road you may find you have issues like leaving the door open in high temperatures, maybe the coil is plugged with paper, ice, dust etc. and needs to be cleaned, or maybe it was improperly charged by the last service man that worked on it. The charge should have been weighed in with a scale by the ounce. Good luck and hope this helps.

35 to 37 Degrees F

35 to 37 F. Put a thermometer inside and give it time like 2-3 cycles between adjustments before you believe the temp is stable. Hope this helps and good luck.

Those units are going to give you pressures corresponding to the surrounding area. A hot kitchen will get the head pressure up around 150-170 psi sometimes. The suction is going to be somewhere around 20psi give or take 10 psi either way. You can't trust pressure readings except for an indication that the compressor is pumping and you don't have a deep vacuum from a lost charge or plugged cap tube or blocked metering device. Always weigh the charge into the system. You cant be a hack hvac guy and help a guy by putting gas in his refrigerator. Commercial refrigerators are pretty touchy and don;t like to shut off if they don't have an exact charge. Don't take my word for it call True in St Louis they made the thing. Hope this helps and good luck.

NEWER T-49 s DO NOT HAVE ANY DEFROST HEATER OR TIMER OR CUTOFF'S All solutions involving repairs on these items are bogus. The defrost occurs when the compressor shuts down normally. During this time,since the fan never stops, it should circulate above freezing air around the coils and a slow defrost may occur. It is a poor system at best, and does not work well if the compressor runs a lot. MY erratic cooling was fixed by removing the copper sleeve and cold control probe from the evaporator(cold coil on top) Polish up the copper tube and the probe, reinsert and bend the copper sleeve very slightly so that it fits snuggly into the evaporator. Mine was very loose and not making good contact with the metal evaporator, giving erratic control of temperature.. Good Luck!!