True Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

That is a broad question. Lets do a checklist. When you plug the unit in the compressor behind the grill on the front should come on and the fan in front of the compressor should come on. The radiator in the compressor compartment needs to be clean from all dust and grease. Many times this is overlooked and can cause real problems by letting the compressor overheat. Now look inside and find the fan cover. It hangs from the inside top of the cooler. It should also be running. If either fan is not running the unit will not cool. Sometimes there is an obstruction, such as someone pushing a six pack up against the fan cover and pushing it into the fan. The fan down by the compressor is sometimes blocked by the cardboard shroud that is built around the fan. Also in a few cases rodents have gotten caught in that fan. If everything is running, you will have to look deeper into the compressor compartment. There is a screw in the front of the radiator that hold the compressor unit in the cooler. Unplug the unit from the wall. Remove that screw and slowly and carefully pull the compressor unit towards the front of the beer box. It will slide almost all the way out. You will see a coil of copper tubing at the back of the compressor that allows enough slack in the lines to slide this unit out. When you push this unit back in it helps to have someone behind the cooler to pull back on that coil as you push the unit back into the machine so it does not get crimped. With the compressor unit pulled out, plug it back in at the wall. If your compressor is running and you have proper amount of refrigerant, the small copper tube from the compressor to the radiator will get very hot, enough to burn your finger, after two or three minutes. After 10 minutes the larger copper line that is usually enclosed in a rubber sheathing should get cold. One way to know if you have a burned out compressor is to listen to the compressor and fans when you first plug into the power outlet. A bad compressor will usually try to start for 2 or 3 seconds and then click out. While it is trying to start the fan will slow down because the compressor is pulling way too many amps and is pulling power away from the fan until it clicks out again. If you can hear the compressor come on and run but it makes no heat to the radiator, you probably have a refrigerant leak. Your freon is gone or almost gone. If it was a slow leak you would usually notice that the cooler does not seem to cool like it once did. If it was working good and suddenly stopped cooling, the most likely problem is a bad compressor. Changing a compressor is usually beyond the average do it yourselfer because it requires welding the unit in place and gauges and a supply of refrigerant which is almost impossible to get without a liscense. Let me know what you find out.

Question edited for clarity. The Service Manual says that the wiring diagram is hidden in various parts of the unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1177583/True-Gdm-Series.html?page=43&term=wiring+diagram&selected=1#manual It doesn't appear to be all in one place, but you could contact their Customer Service, or Technical Service Department? https://www.google.com/search?q=true+gdm-35em+wiring+diagram ..

If the left-hand door of your True TBB-3G fridge is sagging and creating an air gap at the bottom of the frame where it meets the cooler, here are some steps you can take to fix the issue:

1. Check the door hinges: Inspect the hinges on the door and the frame of the fridge. Look for any damage or wear that may be causing the door to sag. If the hinges are damaged, they may need to be replaced.
2. Adjust the door hinges: If the hinges are in good condition, try adjusting them to see if this resolves the issue. Use a wrench to loosen the screws that hold the hinges in place, and then adjust the hinges up or down as needed to align the door with the frame. Tighten the screws back in place when you are finished.
3. Check the door gasket: If the door gasket is worn or damaged, it may not be sealing properly and causing air gaps. Check the gasket for any damage or signs of wear, and replace it if necessary.
4. Check the door closer: The door closer on the left-hand side may be damaged or worn, causing the door to sag. Inspect the closer and look for any signs of damage. If it is damaged, it may need to be replaced.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, you may need to contact a professional repair service to help diagnose and fix the problem.

It's possible that the issue may be with the thermostat or the compressor. If the thermostat is not working properly, it may not be regulating the temperature correctly. Similarly, if the compressor is not working properly, it may not be able to cool the fridge down to the desired temperature. It's best to have a professional take a look and diagnose the issue. Another possible cause is the refrigerant levels, if the refrigerant is low this can cause the compressor not being able to cool the fridge properly and will need to be refilled by a professional.

Very little on that unit, but this link might work better for you where you live. https://www.google.com/search?q=deli+case+Fogel+6Z-SC+light+bulb ..

This is a $3,600 commercial undercounter fridge. Great make and I have used many of them in my 50 year catering career. There is nothing on fixing Error 13. Pages 76 and 79 state 'Communication Error'.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS - NET

https://dc2kentprodcontent.blob.core.windows.net > ... PDF TDM (True Display Merchandiser) Refrigerator. Holds 33?F to 41?F (0.5?C to 5?C), ... Temperature. Communication error. E13. -. CURRENT CONTROL DISPLAY. Contact Technical Support direct for how to fix. https://www.truemfg.com/NA/Products/Bajo-Mostrador/TUC-24G-HC~FGD01 ..

go to fusebox and look for breaker thats flipped

The freezer door being open all night cause the compressor to run all night continuously trying to cool the unit down. This caused an increase in resistance and tripped the breaker. It may stabilise, but it may need a service call to fix the issue. It may also be a lazy breaker and it is the breaker that needs swapping out. you can normally compare them against adjacent breaker, a lazy one feels soft and doesn't snap of Off when you move is slowly to the Off position. They also feel different when switching to On. I have spent a 50 year career in catering and hospitality fighting fridges and freezers, electrics and plumbing. Now retired :>) Get this fixed by Easter because in my experience, it will break down on Saturday at 8:00pm!

You mean 'low as it can go', talking temperature not numbers. The temperature is too high. You need a refrigeration engineer. You either need a top up of gas or the thermostat has failed. They are great fridges, I have had lots of them in my career.

GDM-49-HC~TSL01 - Glass Door Merchandiser - North ...

https://www.truemfg.com > Products > GDM-49-HC~T... ... please change your settings to allow JavaScript. True Foodservice Icon blue with utensils ... GDM-49-HC~TSL01. Glass Door Merchandiser. Compare.

yeah, if the compressor is not running, maybe you can replace it another one by returning your ref in the owner ( if it is a new one)

Probably the socket or associated wiring is defective.

If you hear a clicking noise coming from the compressor there is about a 80% chance that the compressor is dead. But you'll have to call someone out to be sure. If the fan motor behind the grill is running (condenser fan) then the compressor should be running and vice versa. If the compressor is hot as a pistol and clicking and the fan motor is not working then it may cool down if you shut it off and you might just have a bad fan motor. With power turned off the condenser fan motor should freely spin. Compressor have a 5 year warranty from the manufacture not including labor and additional materials. Hope this helps.

without knowing age of unit, I suggest replacing the motor. Sounds like the armature is worn the bearings and is moving inside the windings of the motor. I would do that first before moving forward with any other repairs.

Please forward model and serial so I can be sure I am addressing the correct unit. Thanks.

sometimes the evap has a copper tube that the sensing buld goes into and is very hard to find. The operations manual (found on Parts Town.Com) does not mention it but I have had experiences where you really have to look hard as the hole is less than a quarter of an inch and is sometimes covered with a putty similar to plumbers putty.

Old old question. Sometimes there is a removable plate on the back. You can run them on the outside just insert them in a larger copper tube for protection change the filter to a sporlan cap-t-032.

Most of the time it's a compressor relay that does this. Your model will most likely have one. Get your model number and check the internet and see if your model has one. They are usually a small black plastic device attached directly to the compressor terminals and take up two of the three terminals. This is under the black plastic cover that is held on by a metal piece or wire, right on the compressor itself. Usually they're only about 10-20 bucks so it my be worth a shot.

Hello Vic, I'm not sure what model of Freezer you have, but I suspect that the "condenser" coils on the back or underside of the unit need to be vacuumed or cleaned to rid of the dust bunnies, cat/dog hair etc. The compressor is likely trying desperately to do it's job, but that array of pipes are the only way it can get rid of the heat that it is stealing from the inside of the freezer. IF the coils are clean or if it still keeps running after cleaning... no matter what setting the "cold" dial is set to, then likely there could be a relay that has fused close preventing the unit from cycling properly. I hope this helps! /The GreyOne