GE Profile JP930 Electric Cooktop - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

PartSelect Number PS1016429 http://www.partselect.com/PS1016429-GE-WB24T10119-Infinite-Control-Switch.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=jp930&ModelNum=jp930 could be element so included its part number incase needed http://www.partselect.com/PS243902-GE-WB30T10044-Dual-Haliant-Element-with-Limiter-9-2500W.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=jp930&ModelNum=jp930

if you break the top,it is 400 bucks,can you access the parts from underneath?, http www searspartsdirect com ge cooktop parts model JP930AA2AA 0432... JP930BK2BB GE COOKTOP Manual Model Search Results

being 12 years old ithinkit might be hard to findhttp://www.partselect.com/model-number-locator+1+repair.htm Enter a Part Number: (enter complete/partial part number) Enter a Model Number: (enter at least 3 characters)How do I find my model number? Enter a Keyword: (enter at least 3 characters)

Hi,

The gas valve if it is leaking is not repairable...check the piping to and from first to make sure that you may be able to reinstall the valve and stop the leaking in the piping...soapy water will help identify the source of the leak...

That is not that hard to fix and you can easily buy the parts yourself online...Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...How to Buy Appliance Parts Onlineheatman101

Hi, Sorry I missed this as it got buried in my emails. The part number for the switch you need is WB23M0009 costing about $70.00

The "F153" error code means the temperature sensor for this burner is open. The correction could be replacing the heating element assembly or the control board. Here is a diagram and parts list for your cook-top.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have to disconnected everything from the range, then take the unit out of the counter..will take 2 people

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

Try turning off the breaker for at least 10 min and re apply power. If this doesn't work, then there's an internal problem.
If after 10 minutes the cooktop is STILL locked:

Push the touch pad that looks like a padlock for at least 5 seconds. The lock light should go out.

I did not receive instructions with my G E Profile cook top Model No. 80030750434). There is a build up on the elements which I am having problems removing. Should the top be scraped while the stove is hot or cold? What is the best cleaning product to use?

first check if power is getting to the cook top(there should be a box outside where the wire goes in. After that you have to check if the power makes it to the main board/connector to see if the individual burners are working. My guess is that there is a loose wire at the connection they redid when you redid your counters

Did you find that it was stuck after it had cooled off? A vacuum was probably created between the pot and the glass top. You could try twisting the pot, leaving it for a while, or heating it up again.

the problem is you didn't clean the unit before you used it the first time w/ the ceramabrite wax. the glass on your cooktop is porous and unless you seal it before ever using whatever went into the pores originally will always be in the pores and no amount of cleaner will get it out.

check the starter. the piolet!! if eletric check plug wire and see if the outlet works

yes,heating elemnt and the control can be chgd.to chg those pull the unit out and let it sit on the counter.remove all the screws around the stove just below the glass top.once the screws are out u can pull the top up and have access to all the components.make sure to turn the ckt breaker off b4 opening.u dont have to disconnesct the power cord from the wall if it is hard wired.

sorry to say no , if you try to peal it off or scrape ot off you will crack the cooktop . this keeps happening i have seen it at around 4 times for some reason revere ware melts . there should be a warning in the manual ( i know ge does have the warning about copper bottoms ) . replaceing the cooktop or the whole stove is the only "true" answer .... sorry .....Please if this answer helped , please rate this 3 or 4 stars . and keep me in the paid answer department . A 1 or 2 may knock me down into the unpaid ranks. Thanks Cactus Bob

Hi, You asked a very generic question but I will try to give you a good answer. If the pilot is good and you can light the burner with a match, (this checks everything else) then the most common problem would be the burner holes in front of the pilot are clogged. When cool, remove the burner and inspect the holes, any debris needs to be removed, a bent paper clip works really well. Compressed air helps as well. If there is a tube to the pilot make sure it is exactly where it belongs and that it is clean. If the match didn't light the burner or the flames is not all blue like the rest, there is something else wrong and you need to get back to us with a make and model to better help you. Make sure the burner gets seated back on the orifice correctly and best of Luck to you!

Ge techs are coming to fix!
Thanks

After a pot spillover, the cleanup process triggered my stove top to "control lock"

I removed the pot and once the stove top cooled I pressed and held the "control lock" button.

It began to blink, I released it and then the light went off and the stove top operated normally.

You might not have to wait for the stove top to cool. I don't know.

more common is the dual switch to be bad, but it is possible that the elemnt itself has burnt out, usually a 5 yr warr on the elemnts under glass

It sounds like the burner needs to be replaced. When they burn out sometimes they short out to ground. The cooktop will have to be removed from the counter and the glass top opened. You will probably be able to see where the element is burned out. Replace it and you should be fine. If it is too expensive to fix just disconnect the wires to the burner where they attach to the control . Then you can use the remaining burners. I really don't know what a replacement burner costs. An open coil is around $30.