Top 20 Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher Questions & Answers

Follow the wires for the contactor coil one of them is connected to a resetable hi limit, press the button on the hi limit to reset

It seems that the rinse probe thermistor open or shorted.

Fill valve is stuck open

http://www.fixya.com/search/p110729-hobart_24_in_lxih_3_built_in_dishwasher/e5

This link is for the Hobart Operator manuals. https://my.hobartcorp.com/resourcecenter/default.aspx I have searched for service manuals also, and there do not seem to be any.

The fill solenoid is behind the lower panel, attached to the left side of the booster tank. There is a screen in the end of the fill hose that may be clogged. You require 20 psi flow rate to run the machine properly. Pull the top tray out, place a magnet on the door switch, with the door closed and monitor the 3 led lights on the control board while its filling. All 3 should light up. Use caution around the high voltages present on the relay board and the booster contactor. The probes in the right rear corner of the tank send the water level signals to the control board. The tips must be clean of scale or debris that may signal that water is present, when it is not.

mark the chemical bottle and observe over time. Chances are the silicone tube inside the pump has collapsed and needs changing. Caution... use protective gloves and face protection because the chemicals will spill out and could splash. The detregent is very corrosive. Read the MSDS sheets.

Your detergent is to strong .if the dishwasher is used mainly for glasses use a detergent that is for glassware

could be the drain valve has lost its internal seal . The machine may be accepting a charge of water during the fill cycle, and loosing it while the pump is running

yes you can

test this steps and fix it. God bless you

Drain Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain pump might be defective or might have some debris in it. This is a common problem. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Circulation Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the circulation pump sound, it's likely that the circulation pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the circulation pump will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Drain Impeller

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain impeller might be broken, or there might be debris in the pump. Generally, to gain access to the pump the top of the pump housing will have to be removed. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Pump and Motor Assembly

If the dishwasher is loud the motor bearings, drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All three of these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small, plastic blade. The motor spins the impeller forcing water through the spray arms to clean the dishes. If one or more blades has broken off of the impeller the dishwasher is loud. The impeller can also scrape against the pump housing if it is damaged, warped or bent. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Circulation and Drain Pump Motor

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the motor sound, it's likely that the circulation and drain pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the motor will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled water valve. When it is new, the water inlet valve is very quiet. Over time, the diaphragm inside the valve deteriorates and deforms. This deformation interacts with the water rushing in and can cause a loud vibration, buzzing, squealing or other noises. If the dishwasher is loud during the filling cycle, replacing the water inlet valve may solve the problem.

Check the door hinges.. if a hinge is broke or the door came off the hinge it won't shut.... now if the door won't stay closed then the tension bar that is on the door, connecting to the hinges is broke and you will have to replace it

Take a look at page 7 of the manual here: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/PDF/Hobart%20LXiH.pdfThis tells you the voltage for yours...hope it helps you

You can order a new booster heater.... I would just need the size of the booster heater itself in order to price you one.... What state are you talking about? Susan Restaurant Equipment Outlet 888-542-5959

Have you run Delimer through it ? delime cycle?

Hi,

Here is the installation manual for your dishwasher.. Page 9 is the plumbing for your model...

Click here

or you may have to go here then enter the security code shown...

This should give you all of the information you need... I would print it off for easier reading and future reference..

heatman101

Most of the Hobart LX series of dishwashers have their own built-in booster heaters. To check for one, remove the lower front panel (2 screws). The booster heater, if present, will be a stainless steel tank on the left side. If it doesn't have a built in booster heater then it was meant to be used with chemical sanitizer instead.

PD is not an error code. It shows that when it draining water out shortly after power-up and when shutting down. If it seems to be showing "PD" longer than usual, it means the dishwasher's control circuitry believes there is still water in the tank, due to a faulty water level probe, most like the one under the lift-out screen. It has a plastic body with a metal probe coming out the center.

There is also a dual probe at the rear of the machine, but I believe the dishwasher uses the front probe to determine when to stop draining the machine during "PD" - most likely meaning "Power Drain" or "Power Draining".

If you are not seeing any E- codes (E1, E2, E3, etc.) then these water level probes are likely just fine and the "PD" is appearing normally, as it should during draining conditions.

If the valve is the round shaped one with two hoses going into it .that is the vacum breaker.Most likely a 3/4" you can get these at plumbing supply try just unscrewing the guts clean with delimer and unscrew the guts from the new one and screw them in.unplumbing the old vacum breaker can be tricky.the plastic fitting some times break.I use a 1/2" wire brush for plumbing to clean the vacum breaker houing.with delimer remember take your time and always back up your plumbing fittins with another wrench as not to put any stress anywhere else.

Could be bearings or something caught inside the impellar. If you take the wash arms off and run a cycle with water, it will "sometimes" blow out anything in the impellar. Undercounter machines are usually problematic - recommend avoiding them when possible.