Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

im a service tech for hobart,there are no adjustments,the torsion bar is broken.the parts arent expensive but installing them are tricky.

the p3error is an open or shorted booster thermistor.take off btm panel on the right side is the bstr, do when cold and no power to mach.,TURN OFF BREAKER, ON THE UPPER RGT CORNER OF BSTR YOU WILL SEE THE THERMISTOR.unplug from harness use7/16 wrench to unscrew from bstr. well,get new therm.and installyou can get @ any hobart office in your area, part#328994. dont forget to vote, thanks, monomoy

Hi drogers77,

I'm not a Hobart technician, but here what I founded in my manual for the LX30 error message:

LX18 / LX30 display shows E0, E2, E3 or E4

1. Low water pressure - check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.

2. Make sure probes are clean

3. No water pressure - main water supply valves may not be working

4. Drain valve open - turn machine OFF to drain machine, then ON. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the OFF-ON procedure. If problem persists, call your local Hobart Service Office.

5. Delime machine.

Hope it will help you.

pepsicrazy

my dishwasher Hobart LX 30 will not shut off and displays 30

It seems that the rinse probe thermistor open or shorted.

Follow the wires for the contactor coil one of them is connected to a resetable hi limit, press the button on the hi limit to reset

Fill valve is stuck open

This is what I found in the manual...and on a couple of other sites....

Machine won't fill or won't fill high enough(LX18, LX30 display shows "E0," "E2," "E3," or "E4")

1.Low water pressure — check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.
2.Make sure probes are clean.
3.No water pressure — main water supply valves may not be working.
4.Drain valve open - turn machine off to drain machine, then on. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the
OFF-ON procedure.
5. Delime machine.

If this doesn't help let me know and I will get to the bottom of it....good luck and thanks for rating my effort...The Fang.

A hobart LXIH-3 uses a chemical to sanitize however a 120 degree wash temp is required as well.

Turn up your hot water tank that supplies the dishmachine, make sure your sanitizer is pumping into the rinse cycle using micro-clorine test papers and all is well.

http://www.fixya.com/search/p110729-hobart_24_in_lxih_3_built_in_dishwasher/e5

This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.

This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.

Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!

The fill solenoid is behind the lower panel, attached to the left side of the booster tank. There is a screen in the end of the fill hose that may be clogged. You require 20 psi flow rate to run the machine properly. Pull the top tray out, place a magnet on the door switch, with the door closed and monitor the 3 led lights on the control board while its filling. All 3 should light up. Use caution around the high voltages present on the relay board and the booster contactor. The probes in the right rear corner of the tank send the water level signals to the control board. The tips must be clean of scale or debris that may signal that water is present, when it is not.

This link is for the Hobart Operator manuals. https://my.hobartcorp.com/resourcecenter/default.aspx I have searched for service manuals also, and there do not seem to be any.

Your detergent is to strong .if the dishwasher is used mainly for glasses use a detergent that is for glassware

could be the drain valve has lost its internal seal . The machine may be accepting a charge of water during the fill cycle, and loosing it while the pump is running

mark the chemical bottle and observe over time. Chances are the silicone tube inside the pump has collapsed and needs changing. Caution... use protective gloves and face protection because the chemicals will spill out and could splash. The detregent is very corrosive. Read the MSDS sheets.

yes you can

test this steps and fix it. God bless you

Drain Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain pump might be defective or might have some debris in it. This is a common problem. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Circulation Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the circulation pump sound, it's likely that the circulation pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the circulation pump will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Drain Impeller

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain impeller might be broken, or there might be debris in the pump. Generally, to gain access to the pump the top of the pump housing will have to be removed. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Pump and Motor Assembly

If the dishwasher is loud the motor bearings, drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All three of these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small, plastic blade. The motor spins the impeller forcing water through the spray arms to clean the dishes. If one or more blades has broken off of the impeller the dishwasher is loud. The impeller can also scrape against the pump housing if it is damaged, warped or bent. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Circulation and Drain Pump Motor

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the motor sound, it's likely that the circulation and drain pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the motor will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable. Enter your model number to see parts for your dishwasher. Help me find my model number

Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled water valve. When it is new, the water inlet valve is very quiet. Over time, the diaphragm inside the valve deteriorates and deforms. This deformation interacts with the water rushing in and can cause a loud vibration, buzzing, squealing or other noises. If the dishwasher is loud during the filling cycle, replacing the water inlet valve may solve the problem.

Check the door hinges.. if a hinge is broke or the door came off the hinge it won't shut.... now if the door won't stay closed then the tension bar that is on the door, connecting to the hinges is broke and you will have to replace it

I found this and it also may have to do with the door seals...how old is the unit...if door seals get old and stiff..(not soft and pliable) they sometimes leak...after usage the heat and moisture may cause them to swell and or become soft thereby sealing better...but this is what I found in the user manual.

Machine displays "E7" on LX30 model or "CLEAN PROBE" on LX40 model.
1. Clean water sensors inside tank.
It suggests contacting Hobart if this fails but I also found this problem is associated with fill issues...as in an E4 error...this what you do in that case....

Machine won't fill or won't fill high enough(LX18, LX30 display shows "E0," "E2," "E3," or "E4")

1.Low water pressure — check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.
2.Make sure probes are clean.
3.No water pressure — main water supply valves may not be working.
4.Drain valve open - turn machine off to drain machine, then on. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the
OFF-ON procedure.
5. Delime machine.

Good Luck and I hope this helps...let me know if it doesn't and i am sure I can get to the bottom of it...thanks for rating my effort...the Fang.