20 Most Recent KitchenAid KGRA806PSS Gas Kitchen Range - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Sounds like it is clogged or needs a regulator

Either way the error code is a mis-communication error... which means a faulty power board... click on the link below... Here's the tech. data sheet for your model that explains what to do for error code F6 E4: manuals/Tech_Sheet_9761387.pdf

You would need the rest of the model number to make sure you have the correct board... and here is the Power Board for your model...



F6 Systems E4 LOST COMMUNICATION

PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, perform steps 1 through 3 above chart on page 5 to enter the Diagnostic mode.
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B. Open the back panels and make sure the P2 connector is fully plugged in on the power board and on the display board.
- If it is not, plug it in to the connector and go to step F.
- If it is plugged in, go to step C.
C. Visually inspect all the four wires between P2 on the power board and P2 on the display board. Make sure the wires are not cut or pinched. If the wires appear to be intact, perform a continuity check between pin 4 of the power board and pin 4 of the display board. Do the same for pins 1, 2, & 5. Both of these checks should result in a reading of less than 5.
- If either of these checks fail, go to step E.
- If these checks pass, reconnect P2, then go to step D.
D. Replace the power board. Ensure all connectors are properly seated and then go to step F.
E. Replace the wiring harness (signal) and go to step F.
F. Ensure all wiring connections are made. Replace the back panels.
G. Plug in range or reconnect power. Observe for longer than 1 minute.
H. If error does not appear, initiate a bake cycle. Let the cycle run at least 1 minute.

* If no error occurs, cancel the cycle. The problem has been repaired.
* If the error occurs again, restart the troubleshooting procedure at step A (except in step D replace the display board if power board has already been replaced).

Hope helps.

the mod/ kgra range uses a spark system / and it sounds like its working properly . the problem is the main valve assy it has 3 wires / be very carefull not to inter change them . part # 9763716 retail 147.39 whirl.. this valve can be tested before replacement . with ohmmeter..

I am assuming you mean you press the OFF button on the panel to turn the oven off.

The OFF button will not operate oven panel is in Lock mode. Check the manual on page 12.

Unlock the pad and check if the problem goes away. If not, then most likely the key pad membrane may be a problem See item 2 on this site. You will have to check the colour that you will need.

Hope this helps.

F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock

1. If door latched:
Disconnect power from unit.
Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
Replace door switch.
Re-apply power.
Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.

2. If door not latched:
Disconnect power from unit.
Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
Repeat steps A and B for door switch.

3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.


Hope this helps.

Hi, is your range gas with electric ignition? And are the igniters constantly clicking with the burners off? If so it sounds like you may have spilled liquids into the electric switches at the burner control knobs causing them to short. This is a common problem and the best fix is to unplug the range from the power and let the range dry out for 24 to 48 hours. Sometimes using a hairdryer can speed up the drying process. If you did not spill or get any liquids into the burner ignition switches then there is a posibillity that one of the switches is defective. You would need to test each igniter switch with a continuity tester and the burner knobs in the off position(power unplugged for safety) to see which switch is defective and replace that switch.

its posible you may have blown your thermal fuse in the back of the oven.

Hi
You can start the self cleaning cycle again and then stop it after 15 minutes, then let the oven cool for sometime and check if the door opens again, if it won't then try to press the CANCEL button for 20 seconds so that it cancels the cycle. After this if the issue returns then you have to take a screw driver and open the latch. After this the latch mechanism should be replaced as it is bad. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

As the off button wont respond so the problem is with the membrane switch that is bad and needs replacement. This switch usually comes with the control pnael and to replace it you'll have to buy the control panel. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi,
This time the problem is not the touch pad...
The self cleaning feature gets things extremely hot and has either burnt up the wiring to the touch pad or has caused the power supply on the main circuit baord to fail...to find out for sure which problem it is the power supply will need to be checked and then the appropriate part changed...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

same thing happened to me yesterday took all day to figure it out was the themal fuse on the back of the oven the part number for my kitchen aid is 8300802 if you want the doors to unlock and reset the display you can take the leads off the fuse touch them together and the door will unlock however it is best to change the part took me 5 minutes once i knew what to look for
you have to remove the back panel and you will see the part with the number on it cost me 50 dollars but better than the 8o bucks to have a sevice guy come and do it next time i self clean i will pull the stove away from the wall to help keep it from ver heating

ok what would u like to know about the ignitor? if you do an amp test on the ignitor it should be reading 3-3.3 amps anything less then this and you would replace please message me back with what the problem is with your kitchen aid stove so that we may properly diagnois your unit Thanks again
Rick

The problem is usually caused by the igniter not reaching the right amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it will set the gas valve to be partially opened or do not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. You can refer to this video at http://www.appliancehelponline.com/gasburnervideo.html to help you do the step by step procedures to do the testing.

The problem here is a defective gas safety valve, You will need to replace the gas safety valve.
Any further questions please feel free to ask.

Yes it is fixed. Did a temporary jumper of the over temp fuse to use the oven one night. Installed a replacement 130 degree fuse with a mica transistor insuator under it instead of being mounted directly on the back side of the oven. This raised the range to about 150 degrees.
Thanks for the help

Go on www.whirlpoolparts.ca/POL/repair and do a search for your model. You will have access at the drawing with the part number.