American Standard Cadet 3 Right Height Elongated Toilet by - ADA Compliant - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

are you sure its the floor connection as it could be the tank one, also if the floor section is there a insert sealed and fitted to the existing floor pipe and then the wax seal around this. similar model video. https://youtu.be/LebANJC2rx4

If your toilet is not moving waste all the way to the septic, then there may be a blockage in the waste line or it may not be plumbed correctly. There is no reason why you should not be able to make a full flush on septic. I have live on septic for many years and it should flush as well as living in the city. Is your water supply nice and strong? This sound like a gravity issue with the waste line or a blockage, If you can get under your house and see how the waste line is run, that would be helpful, it should be aimed straight down underneath your toilet and never running uphill at any point on the way to the septic tank. Also is there a vent in the waste line at the proper distance. If not, that could also be the issue. Good luck. P.s. does your septic tank need pumped out?

Check the chain the goes between the handle and the flapper. It should not be taught. If it is it will not permit the flapper to seat properly and water will leak out. Adjust the chain length so the flapper is seated and there is just a little slack in the chain.

The American Standard Cadet 3 flowise one piece toilet uses a flapper valve with a soft nylon washer to seal against the water outlet. Over time this nylon washer develops 'puckers' causing water to seep between the nylon washer and the seat of the flapper. This seepage causes the water level in the tank to drop to a point where the water inlet valve opens to replace the lost water in the tank. There are two ways to correct this problem: 1. Replace the soft nylon washer on the flapper, or 2. Replace the entire flapper valve. Hope this solution helps.

Put your hand around the back of the seat and you will feel the nuts. Tighten them by simply turning them.

You have something in the blow stopping the waste from going down.

You need to replace the tank to bowl nuts, washers, and gaskets as well as the flush valve gasket. One word of caution. When installing the new bolts to hold the tank in, place a rubber gasket under the washer inside the tank, and also one on each bolt under the washer underneath the tank. If you omit the one under the tank you may end up cracking the tank when you tighten it down.

You would have to determine what the stain is before an accurate answer on how to deal with it. Can you add a picture?

replace flapper with American Standard flapper.

It could be a bad seat around the flapper or the flapper itself. Replace flapper with one designed for the Cadet. Check water level and see it doesn't flow above the overflow tube. if it is above the tube lower the float ball by turning the screw at top of ball.

Turn knob on top of float ball to increase ball height which will increase water column. Up to 1" of overflow tube.

Raise height of water by raising float valve. It has a twist knob at top of ball to raise and lower ball. Column should be about 1 inch below overflow tube.

Replace flapper. Use American Standard flapper for your unit.

One inch is exactly 2.54 cm, so if you're 5 ft 9 in then you're about 175 cm.

Hello, W/D, toilet expert, here.
The tank has a water level line cast into the inside back of the tank. That's where your water level should ideally be. Now, there are a variety of water level controllers, so we'll hit on the major ones. But first, a little nomenclature, so you'll know what it isn't. If you remove the tank lid, you'll notice a tube in the middle that's open, and usually has a smaller tube inserted or attached to it. This is the overflow tube, and feeds water to the rim of the bowl. At the base of the overflow tube is the flapper, and it controls the majority of the flushing power. The flapper is operated by a chain connected to the flush lever. When the flapper is raised (flushed), the water level drops. On the left side of the tank is the water fill valve, The water coming from the house via the tubing under the tank goes into this valve assembly. Part of this assembly is the all important float.
Older ones have the float at the end of an arm, As the water level falls, the float falls and operates the water inlet valve at the other end of the float, on the water fill valve. As the level rises in the tank, the float rises with the level and shuts off the water when it gets to it's pre-set level. This type is adjusted by positioning the float either by the screw adjustments on each end of the float arm, or sometimes by bending the float arm.
The newer types have the float either built in, or the float surrounds the fill valve. The one that surrounds the fill valve looks like a very fat donut and is very similar to the older float arm type, just more compact. The water level is set by adjusting the linkage between the float and the water valve at the top of the water control valve.
The newer newer type has all of the floating mechanism built in. But cleverly, there is an external adjustment for raising and lowering the water level. On the side of the tube, there are slots and raised dots on the lower tube. The upper tube has slots on the inside of it. There is a white locking tab between the two tubes. Here's how this one works: (Turn your water off first for adjusting this type). The tube is in two parts, an upper and lower tube. They are held in place by the locking tab, and by the slots cast into the two tubes (they intermesh) To adjust this type, you have to raise the lower portion of the locking tab to raise it off of the locking dots, and than revove it. Then, you push down slightly and twist the upper section to unlock it. Set the level higher or lower, twist the two parts back together, and reinsert the locking tab. The aim is to set the water level at the level mark on the tank. This type can be tricky; you'd do best to turn the water off to adjust this type, and turn it back on once you have locked it back in place.
Best regards, W/D

I'm contractor for the last 17 years and this is the first time I have problems with the toilet tank installation , I bought four toilets, three of them had a leaking tank I thought that the place that had bolt did not have enough pressure and I put more pressure every five minutes but the toilets kept on leaking, I took the bolts out and I put plumbing putty in the top and the bottom and installed it again but it kept on leaking then i removed the putty and i put liquid teflon on the bolts and finally the leaking stoped. Edit your post: To insert a product link use the format: [[ASIN:ASIN product-title]] (What's this?) I'm contractor for the last 17 years and this is the first time I have problems with the toilet tank installation , I bought four toilets, three of them had a leaking tank I thought that the place that had bolt did not have enough pressure and I put more pressure every five minutes but the toilets kept on leaking, I took the bolts out and I put plumbing putty in the top and the bottom and installed it again but it kept on leaking then i removed the putty and i put liquid teflon on the bolts and finally the leaking stoped. Guidelines

try putting some food coloring in it to see if it's leaking anywhere. the coloring will help you identify where it's leaking

There is a water line cast on or into the side of the tank. They are generally set from by the type of filler system you install. Thats a different matter.

The fix for this issue is the water flow tube most likely came out and is running into the tank instead of the overflow tube. Here's a picture of what it should look like. The tube must come out during shipping. Once I put the tube back in no issues with splashing! And until I figured this out I was about to return it to Lowes!

I went through this and called the help line. If the bowl is almost empty after flushing, it may be the water fill line in the fill tank (reservoir on the back of the toilet). There is a small tube that should go into the overflow tube and it adds water to the bowl after flushing. Mine was not attached to the overflow tube when I took it out of the box and the instructions did not mention to check it (or the troubleshooting guide). A picture is worth a thousand words so look for the small white hose going from the fill valve into the overflow tube: