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1999 1400 intruder does'nt have any pressure when engaged.
1999 1400 intruder with hydraulic clutch has no pressure when lever is engaged. i assume when clutch lever is engaged the line should be pressurized and i should be able to see where it's leaking.
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close bleeder pump clutch 3 or 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder close bleeder pump clutch lever 3 to 4 times hold clutch in open bleeder fluid will start to squirt out under pressure close bleeder let clutch lever out pump 3-4 times repeat untill you get pressure in lever hold lever while bleeding donot release while the bleeder is open
Adjust the clutch then. The clutch plates and the clutch cable both wear during use If you have a hydraulic clutch you will need to check the clutch fluid reservoir.
Maybe the clutch master cylinder is not building hydraulic pressure? The internal seals in it may not be holding. Watch the slave cylinder push the clutch lever while someone presses the clutch pedal. If travel is not enough and was bled properly, you may need a new master cylinder.
Yes, that is the reason. Below I created an image of the entire assembly.You have a hydraulic clutch. When the clutch lever is pulled, fluid from the lever actuated master cylinder sub-assembly is forced into the hydraulic hose where it puts pressure on the clutch push rod to disengage the clutch.You will need the two washers and a union bolt to reattach the hydraulic hose to the case. Then you will need to refill the reservoir and bleed the air out of the line to get the clutch to operate.
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Oil should be 10W40 SF or SG grade. Anything else will cause the clutch to slip. There must be freeplay on the clutch cable (0.4-0.6in). Adjust handle bar clutch lever screw all the way out then adjust at gearbox end and revert to handle bar adjustment for fine adjustments. If this does not solve the problem take the clutch apart and measure driven plate thickness (3.12in minimum for the 1st plate and 2.62in minimum for the others) Measure clutch spring free length. There are 2 sets (4 springs each). 0.97in minimum and 0.92in minimum respectively. A slipping clutch is caused by incorrect friction, that is incorrect oil or insufficient pressure. Pressure is supplied by the springs on the discs and driven plates. If the discs, driven plates or bucket is worn it will cause slippage. If you pull in the clutch and it disengages but starts to re- engage after a short period you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder seals.
If I recall correctly, this model is equipped with a hydraulically actuated clutch (it has a clutch fluid reservoir on the handlebars instead of a clutch cable). If your hydraulic clutch is not building enough pressure to release the clutch, it might just need to have the fluid flushed out, and the system bled. If that does not remedy the situation, the master cylinder, slave cylinder and hydraulic lines would need to be inspected.
You could change the fluid, but I'd pay more attention to bleeding the system a few times.
It also sounds like the clutch slave cylinder seals are worn/perished. You might need to look into having these replaced, as it could be allowing the clutch to seep fluid stopping the hydraulic (vacuum) affect.
The clutch lever should have some tension, so could be a problem with the hydraulic actuator stuck, or a failure of the clutch. try bleeding the clutch, or pull the clutch cover off and see if the pressure plate moves
You may have a blocked clutch hose or a restricted outlet/leaking piston valve in the master cylinder. Remove the hose entirely and blow through it with compressed air. Good air flow means good hose. Now try the master cylinder (clutch lever), you should get a good flow of fluid with one press. If it barely releases anything, tear the cylinder down and check the outlet area and piston valving. It may need a rebuild kit or just replace the cylinder. Once you get the cylinder working, put the hose back and new fluid in the cylinder. work the lever a number of times, then bleed the system.
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