20 Most Recent 1994 Suzuki VS 800 Intruder Questions & Answers

yes, WHAT ABOUT IT?? GOD ABOVE, WHAT.

Are they polarity concience, some are.

The hot side is running way too lean. Have your carbs synchronized may help. Try draining the bowls. Good luck.

Use 10w40 motorcycle oil, do not use car oil it will damage your wet clutch...

carbs are out of sync -- need to have them syncronized and the temp of the heads will equalize

When you say you cleaned out the gummed up carbs how did u go about doing that ? I have a 78 xs1000 yamaha i've since new with almost 400,000 miles on it an multiple carbs can be , well a challange lol i get a gallon of carb dip , and disassble and soak them them individually for a few hours each then ued a can of carb cleaner and a small brush to finish blowing all the small a vents etc clean and low pressure air blower , its tedius and time consuming but its better to do them once than pulling them off an chasing problems cause u didnt

Pull the fuel line going to the carb and see if the gas is there and if its a nice strong steady flow, if not the line is clogged.

if you replaced the pads and not the disk/disks, the pads will need some time to wear in to the surface shape of the disk. also if the disk is glazed at all, they'll be really weak.

Clean the exposed side of the battery and use duct tape to create a handle to pull with

I would cut the ground wire and put a wire terminal end on it to attach it to the battery using the bolt on the ground post. That way if you have to replace the battery in the future or on a road trip you can do it by just unbolting the battery at the posts.

Not adjustable attached to the underside of the lever, remove from clutch some switches are cliped together in 2 halves & will split in half if you release the clips others wont, spray a little thin oil around switch if problem continues replace

You still haven't got it bled yet? Where do you live, i will ride my bike over and show you. lol

Ok here we go, follow this procedure.
There is a clutch slave cylinder that is located on the left side of the engine, behind a cover. You will see the clutch line going to it. There is a bleeder valve there. It is a small brass piece that may have a little rubber cap on it. They make bleeder tools that make the job much easier, but if you do not have on here is the convetional way. It will take two of you. One person pull the lever in & hold it in while the other opens, then closes the bleeder. After you close it have the person working the lever, release it. Keep repeating this until you start to get pressure & all the air bubbles are gone--- While doing this be sure to keep the master cylinder full of fluid. Remember, to never release the clutch lever with the bleeder open while bleeding, if you do, it will sux air back in. I hope this helps & good luck with your bike.

Hi,
This is quite simple. Just open the bleed nipple on the clutch cylinder, and pull the clutch handle in. Then tightened the screw and release the handle. Keep repeating this process until you have only fluid coming out the bleed screw and no air.
Hope this helps.

I would take a look a ebay for spares. There are many dealers with ebay shops.

It looks like it will take 3.8 qts, with filter, 10W40 I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

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Hi,

You made a mistake sorry, should have not put oil in. Take it straight back to shop, ask them on phone what type of oil they put in, say you want it in writing. Don't tell them why yet. Then, with a witness, drain some oil as a sample, get witness to keep it. Then take bike to shop and tell them what happened. Drain oil sample at shop to compare, if they don't rebuild your motor, tell them you have a sample to take to analyst etc etc.

Thanks,

Adam.

Ah yes the pain in the ........ battery box on the intruder. First lift the bike and I do not mean on a lift[most lifts block the area needed to extract the battery.Build a small ramp maybe out of 2x4s [not high only a couple of inches 4 is good ,then put the front wheel up on it and then block rear wheel.This will give you extra area to work and extract battery. Now locate the positive cable side of the battery box [a square cut near the top of the case]you will note a10 mm screw head .take along insulated straight screw driver or a 10 mm socket and loosen the cable'Now the IMPORTANT POINT IS DO NOT TOUCH THE FRAME OR ANY GROUNDED POINT WHEN THE SCREW IS TAKEN OUT.Really this is not that hard but is important,If you are hesitant then remove side panel and disconnect the positive here. Go to other side of battery box and remove negative cable.Thisside is dead so it is alittle bit easier. Now locate the two screws on the bottom of the bat. box and take them out supporting the battery as you lower it,This is where the extra space will be appreciated.Hope this makes it easier for you.IInstallation is in reverse Merry christmas

Most likely, this is just water. Especially true if this happens only when the engine and exhaust are cold. Try tightening the clamp more securily at the joint - there are drain holes in the bottom of the exhaust pipes designed to allow this (normal) condensation to drain from the system.

my clutch on the handle bars dont stay primed

Oil should be 10W40 SF or SG grade. Anything else will cause the clutch to slip. There must be freeplay on the clutch cable (0.4-0.6in). Adjust handle bar clutch lever screw all the way out then adjust at gearbox end and revert to handle bar adjustment for fine adjustments. If this does not solve the problem take the clutch apart and measure driven plate thickness (3.12in minimum for the 1st plate and 2.62in minimum for the others)
Measure clutch spring free length. There are 2 sets (4 springs each). 0.97in minimum and 0.92in minimum respectively.
A slipping clutch is caused by incorrect friction, that is incorrect oil or insufficient pressure. Pressure is supplied by the springs on the discs and driven plates.
If the discs, driven plates or bucket is worn it will cause slippage.
If you pull in the clutch and it disengages but starts to re- engage after a short period you will need to replace the clutch master cylinder seals.