Top 20 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 2 Questions & Answers

turn key on ,check ground area may see a lot of oil. turn key to start if no start blown engine.

whats cheaper? warrenty?

look in manual and go to the local mechanic.good luck.

Really need more information, i.e., does it run bad on the primary circuit, on the main jet or both and does it accelerate good? At a high level it is going to be very lean with straight pipes and a K&N on it. I would tell you more but I am so tired of having my hearing abused by straight pipes I will pass. Put some mufflers on that rice burning irrigation pump engine between your legs.

either buy new plug or go to locak mechanic

I've got the same Vulcan. It has 2 coils. If one side is not firing then check the coil that supplies it with power. Easy to check - use a "light" tester and see if it lights up. The coils are underneath the tank / seat.

Fan should only come on when requred due to heat. If it comes on with jumper, it works. If you have proof that you are hot enough for the fan to come on and it does not, replace the switch that senses the heat.

The clutch bleeder is behind the left engine cover, you will have to remove the left exhaust from the head and also the left front foot peg in order to get it off should be about 5 bolts holding engine cover on dont worry its just a cover no oil leakage from that side, then it will be down just above the frame, it will have clutch hose going to it.. to Bleed it remove cap on leftside handle bar make sure fluid level is 3/4 fulll hold clutch lever in then open valve, let air out then close valve release clutch lever, should fix if not repeat bleeding until you have good pressure on clutch lever, dont let fluild get to low . once pressure is good refill and put cap back on. put bike back togather and RIDE good luck

If it doesnt jump out of any other gears. It may even grab 2nd on decel. sounds like a bent shift fork.

the clicking sound you here might be your cylnoid dis engaging your starter. charge battery, change plugs and try again

posssible switch failure if it has 2 wires short them together and if it has 1 wire touch it on the frame of the bike

your clutch is in need of ajustment or need clutch work on.

There are a few different sizes of bearings so a part number cannot be given.In order to work out which bearing sizes will be needed you need to look at the code markings that are stamped onto your crankshaft and crankcases.each bearing size is worked out from the combination of these two marks.At the very least you will require a manual to show you where each mark is and what sizes each combination means...

electrics can age on old vehicles--coils,modules etc get hot--do a test on components--plug wires may be worn--secure a clymer manual for bike details

It has a nylon gear that strips. You can get a metal to put in, at least thats what i found on my my 1996

Sounds like you have a bad battery. Have you taken it off and tried to trickle charge it? Make sure you test it and watch to see how fast the voltage is dropping. I suspect though, that the batter is bad or your charging system isn't giving it any juice. If you charge the battery, it should still run for 20-30 minutes even if the charging system is bad. That way you know if it's the battery or the charging system. Good luck!

Go to www.kawasaki.com you can download free manuals from their site.

will send diagram asap. thanks.
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Most modern bikes will not start unless the battery is charged. Battery is probably dead, and you rectifier is most likely dead too. change those out with ones known to work and see if that changes it.

It is possible that these items have worked loose over time and everytime you hit a bump or rough patch they 'flutter'. If you have a manual check them out and see if they are within tolerance. Also check the connections for dirt and grime, and check the wiring to make sure it hasn't cracked, rubbed through or worked loose on the connections.