Top 20 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 7 Questions & Answers

you'll need some steel wool, use fine if the rust is not bad. No need to scratch the metal too hard for nothing.
Second you'll need some metal polish to lubricate, and polish while you rub with the steel wool. Liquid polish works better..
you'll need a clean rag to buff out everything after you've removed the rust.

Rub the metal-polish-loaded steel wool on the part until you see the brown rust pits vanish. Don't do a circular motion, go in a back-and-forth motion instead to match the length of the part. Circular scratches will show even if they are very small.
Once you've made all the rusty spots go away, take your polishing rag, a clean cotton t-shirt can do the job, and buff the piece until you are happy with the result.
You can always finish with a regular application of metal polish without the steel wool after you're done.

hi buddy is it leaking oil from the shifter shaft or the left side casing if its the casing its the gasket gone or if its the shaft its the oil seal gone get back to me and i will tell you how to do it

Is there gas? Is the petcock on? Are you getting gas to the carbs? Are you getting spark? If yes to all these then you may have timing issues.

i believe your oil pump is not working properly or dead .
have a good look at the oil as well if its a bit thin and burned , you will " cook " your engine .
i am pretty sure that it is a oil pressure issue and the pump is faulty .
do not ride it as you will damage your bike more and cease the motor .
you might have already done damage with the lack of oil pressure .
i am sorry .

Hi Des, Im am Irish too, howya doin? The oil you want is SAE 10W-20. and 445ml if you are changing the oil. It can be more accurately checked with the fork removed and fully compressed and the spring removed, the oil will be 120mm from the top ot the stanchion.
The manual will give you more info on this and any other future problems so here is a link to it. Good luck to ya, and please rate me if I've helped you. Thanks
[email protected]

VN1600 manual...
http://www.scribd.com/doc/9607829/Kawasaki-VN1600-A1A2-Vulcan-03-Service-Manual-ENG-by-MosuenoPW

Back firing is often a sign of a lean mixture, more than once I've delt with carbs thinking all was well only to find a small blockage. Did the bike by chance sit with gas i the carbs for a time before this problem showed up? If so, try carb cleaner and lots of compressed air in all the openings especially the idle jet passages. Does not take much to make a difference. Hope this helps. Not always the cure but a good palce to try and very little cost if you do the work yourself.

back fires through exhaust too rich
back fires through carb/air box too weak..
if the front cyl is falling away sound like its not getting fuel? weak..?

Remove the instrument cluster located on the gas tank. There should be one 8mm bolt in the center holing it on. After removing the bolt, gently push the housing forward. Underneath you will see a small reservior with a radiator cap on it.

http://www.gadgetjq.com/torquesettings.htm
check this page out

try this buddy on a 2005 vulcan cant be much diffrenece bud http://www.duckweedmafia.com/access/?q=node/25

I'm not familiar with this exact bike, but all others I've seen have two wires going to the switch. You would simply connect the two to close the circuit thus bypassing the switch. For the record this is not a good idea.(Had to say it.) :)

YES

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/kawasaki-motorcycle-vulcan-88-vn1500a6-us-1992-clutch/o/m4620sch62090

this schematic list the brake breather. I hope this helps.

you will need to put more fork oil in.

did you put different pipes on, possibly not enough backpressure, or might have to just adjust carb a little

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_a_carburetor_works:_Carbs_explained keihin cvk40 is the model carburetor on your bike try the link above or google search "keihin cvk40"

Okay, if I'm not mistaken, you have to remove the silver bar completely. On the underside of the bar should be a nut where the turn mounts to the bar. Just remove the nut and it should pop right off,

if no ispction glass on the side of the motor then open the filler plug!
As long as you can see oil & no gears its ok
Cheers Rob

Try some JB weld 2 part epoxy or purchase a new bowl. If a new bowl is not available find a used carb at a bike salvage and use that bowl.

Not sure why it does not have a siteglass but i would advise you empty the sump and then refil the engine with correct amount of oil..