Top 20 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

sounds like your cluch heats up and slips like a pig when it gets hot
time to do a visial on the cluch buy the manual and start wrenching hays seams to be the book for newb's
trust me you want the easy one with lots of pics

a complete tune up consists of new fuel filter, oil filter, oil, plugs, valve adjust, carb sync and plug wires(optional).. if there is no dipstick, there must be a sight glass on one side of the engine down low. on that model i believe the oil filter is underneath along with the drain plug. there should be (2) 17mm bolts, one for drain plug the other for filter.

Hi Buddy
There is not an easy solution to your gearbox problem,it is general wear on the 'dogs' or 'shift drum'..The only other thing it could be is wear on the 'external shift mechanism'.
I,ve just rebuilt a 1996 vn1500 classic whitch had the same problem so if you need any advise or step by step photos please email me at '[email protected]'
paul

your carbs are dirty. and probably need to be balanced also... bring the bike bto a garage and have them cleaned by a profesional.... also after market pipes don't give your bike the proper back pressure .. that can mess up your carbs timing

The oil window is on the left side of the engine crankcase, very near the bottom of the case. It is number 52005 in this parts microfiche.

You should try adjusting your fuel mixture, it seems it's way too rich.

Your mechanic did you no favors. You have a bent shift fork. If the problem was present and was then good for 1000 miles the mechanic removed the fork, bent it back to nearly straight then put it all back together. If he had put in a new fork he would have charged you for it. If he said he could find no problem then how did the problem go away, magic? He probably didn't want to go to the trouble of finding you a new fork since the bike is 13 years old and the dealers wouldn't have the part. The problem will only get worse.

The entire engine comes apart > Head. cam chain, cylinder, flywheel electrics, clutch, oil pump, shifter, gears, shift drum and bad shift fork. This is best done by a dealer. If you try it yourself, be able to put 100 or so parts back together. Go to the site below and take a look in a parts manual. I couldn't find a free service manual for download. Yes, the link says Yamaha but you will change that when on the site.

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/Yamaha.aspx

To find parts, google " vintage kawasaki motorcycle parts "
Please top rate this answer. Thanks Brock!

You probably have a short in the circuit going to the engine computer...odds are you won't be able to correct it without tracing ALL wires in the system....sometime the dealer is the best bet.

My book says "Capacity 368.5-373.5 cc dry. This is for a 1996 Vulcan 1500 A10. Should be the same.

dear susan shock adjustment for the rear shock are done with c wrench. you will notice at the top of the shocks there is a ring with 3 adjustment cams. the wrench is placed in the two holes you see on the shock opposite each other this is where the wrench fits you simply turn either direction for softer or harder ride. this adjustment puts more or less tension on the spring. i own a 96 vulcan as well hope this will help you jim

There is a turn signal relay, should be located under the seat near the fusebox & other electricals.

Check with your dealer, but I believe on that enginee, the oil pump has a nylon drive gear. THis gear has been shreding on that modle from 1988 to 1999. It Happed to me. I called customer service at Kawasaki, and after some haggling, they assumed all the costs to fix the bike.I have a 1997 1500 A modle Vulcan.
Good Luck

first change plugs if continues you hve a carburator problem. if helpful please rate

it has happened to several bikes like yours no one has really fixed it yet but it wont hurt to continue to ride it like that

if i was you i would take it out,or do a lot of shimming.

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/Yamaha.aspx

thats what you are looking for . just enter your bike details and you will see what you need

I am not sure but you may have a look at your fuel line location. Sounds like the fuel line(s) may be getting hot after riding awhile creating a vapor lock in the line.

Hello there .....These types of bikes have alot of trouble with the ignitions..Next time this problem happens remove the plugs and watch there spark..They dont have many fuel problems so you can pretty much rule that out..I can almost bet its the ignition module.. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

Hi!
Before this problem occurred did you charge the battery whilst still connected to bike? If so the regulator or Alternator may have been damaged?
Can you get the bike started by bumping (Push start) or a new fully charged battery? if you can then buy/borrow a Multi Meter and set it on Direct current 12Volt put Red+ lead from Meter to battery+ and Black- Negative lead from meter to Battery Negative- it should read between 13.8 and 14.8ish volts. If no fluctuation when revs are increased and stays at 12.5ish volts then unfortunately either the regulator or alternator is faulty. If you can't use a meter do the lights go brighter from tickover and revs to 1500? if not then possibilities again for Charging Grief.
Sorry to bring possible bad tidings but your looking in the right area.
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0) {#>< U.K.

first gear shift fork is bent.