Just bought the truck 4 wheel drive front brakes are worn out looks like hub and rotor are all one piece you pull the cap of where you make it free wheel and 4 wheel and then take a nut off inside to take hub off . and are the bearings sealed or do they have to be pack from and back wheel included . Disc does not look that good so was going to replace the hub and all where to look to see how it comes apart

Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor
Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Manual Locking Hubs DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY Fig. 1: Three screws retain the cap to the hub body
Fig. 2: Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly
Fig. 3: Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the three screws retaining the cap and remove the cap from the hub.
4. Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly.
5. Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly. To install:
   
6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual




Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal

1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.
   
   Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
   

1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
   

The reason you're getting mixed info from parts stores is because it comes both ways.
Look at the following to determine which one you have, 4 wheel disc brakes (floating front rotors) or rear drum brake model (except 4 wheel disc brakes):
Brake Disc (Rotor) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except F-Super Duty with 4-Wheel Disc Brakes Fig. 1: Secure the caliper so there is no tension on the brake hose

1. Jack up the front of the truck and support it with jackstands. Remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the caliper assembly and support it on the frame with a piece of wire (or something equally secure) without disconnecting the brake fluid hose.
3. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
4. Install the rotor in the reverse order of removal, and adjust the wheel bearing as outlined in Section 1.

F-Super Duty with 4-Wheel Disc Brakes The hub and rotor are individual pieces, allowing the rotor to be replaced independently. The front and rear rotors are the same and are attached with 10 bolts and washers. The bolts are tightened a little at a time, in a crisscross fashion, to an ultimate torque of 74–89 ft. lbs. (100–121 Nm).

Make sure 2- wheel drive is selected.
Jack up the vehicle front and support on axle stands. Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. It bolts onto the hub carrier(aka knuckle) with 2 bolts from the vehicle side of the carrier so you cant see them without sticking your head into the wheel arch. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hub and hang it with a piece of wire inside the wheel arch. Dont let it hang on the pipe it is connected to. The caliper may be difficult to remove if the rotor has a ridge on its outer edge due to wear.
Remove ABS speed sensor(2 bolts to remove) behind the hub
Next comes the hub assembly. :

• Shift on the fly:Remove 6 bolts on the cap then the cap itself. Next the snap ring/circlip and the shim behind it.(On the piece of shaft now visible) and then you can pull off the hub flange. Remove the screw on the lock washer and then the washer itself. Remove the hub nut.The hub assembly(with rotor) will now pull off the shaft. Remove inner bearing and oil seal.
  

• Manual hub: Select transmission 2H and "Free" on the hub. and run the vehicle about 100 m/300 ft.Remove 6 bolts on the cap then the cap itself. Next the snap ring/circlip and the shim behind it. Remove body assembly.

Remove the bottom ball joint on the hub carrier.(Ball joint removal tool may be needed to free the ball joint. Dont go hammering it. That will damage the thread) Swing the carrier upwards and you should have just enough free space to pull the shaft from the hub carrier. If not remove the top balljoint as well. Remove the clamp/SS strip from the inner CV rubber boot. Pull the boot back on the shaft. Remove the circlip from inside the DOJ case. The shaft can now be pulled from the DOJ case.
Remember to preload the wheel bearing on reassembly. Tighten the hubnut to 29 N.m. then loosen fully. Tighten again by hand. Connect a spring scale to the wheel stud. Pulling on the scale in the direction of rotation should give a reading of 2-2.5 kg/4.4-5.5 lb(new bearing) or 1.2-1.8kg/2.6-4 lb(used bearing) when the rotor starts to move. If it does not, tighten the hub nut a littl and measure again. Repeat till the correct measurement is achieved. See diagram.

If they are not worn beyond tollerance they can be machined on the vehicle.
Also make sure its not tyres or wheel bearings.

remove wheel
remove brake caliper( leave the hose connected)
remove centre cap
remove split pin and lock
unscrew bearing hub nut
rotor should come off
fit new bearing races in new rotor
grease new bearings
fit inside bearing and seal
refit rotor, outer bearing,washer,nut,lock, splitpin and centre cap
(tighten nut until no play in bearing plus 1\8 of a turn)
refit caliper and wheel
bleed and test brakes before driving

Remove the brake caliper, and caliper holder if it goes over the rotor. If it's 2 wheel drive, remove the center cap, take out the cotter pin. Remove the nut holding on the rotor. If it's 4 wheel drive, once you remove the associated brake parts, spray some WD-40 around the studs and the center of the rotor, try striking the rotor with a rubber hammer. Often the rotor will rust to the hub, on the 4 wheel drives. The 2 wheel drives, have the rotor with the hub for the bearings together, the 4 wheel drive has a "top hat" type rotor.

Removing: Loosen lug nuts (7/8") and spindle nut (36mm). Lift truck. Remove lug nuts, spindle nut, and wheel. Remove 2 bolts (3/8" allen) holding calipers on. Hold the calipers up with a bungee cord. I attached it to the sheet metal of the fender. Remove 4 bolts (15mm) from rear of hubs. Once these bolts are removed you can move the shield that is in-between the hub and the axle(I think). You are moving it to get access to the allen bolt that holds the ABS sensor on. Once you move the shield then you can look through the top of the rotor through the slots and see the sensor line and bolt. I don't remember what size allen this one took. You do need a long allen wrench though. Disconnect sensing line from hub. Now the rotor is ready to come off. I had to use a pry bar to remove this gently working each side until it popped off. Once the rotor is removed, you need to hammer out the lug bolts. Then you have to tap the rotor away from the hub. This took a little work. Then check each of the lug bolts by screwing the lug nuts on them. They should go all the way down by hand. If they don't - go buy new bolts $2 a piece. Installing: Position new rotor on hub. Get some dry ice from your local grocery store and freeze the bolts for about 10 minutes. Pull one bolt out of the ice at a time and install on the rotor and tighten the bolt with the lug nut. I put the nuts on upside down and used a 7/8" wrench and mallet to tap on the wrench to get these as tight as possible. You also have to tap on the head of the bolt and repeat the wrench tapping. Do this for each bolt pulling one out of the ice at a time. You do not have to get the rotor and hub completely together but get it as close together as possible. Once all of the lug bolts are in it is time to put the rotor on the truck. Ensure the shield is on the spindle and install the rotor, again, this takes some work. Once the rotor is on, connect the ABS sensing line. Line up the shield and install 4 bolts to rear of hub. You can align these by moving the hub, not the rotor. Install the caliper, remember to put brake grease on these 2 bolts. You may have to compress the caliper slightly. To do this remove the brake pad that has the circular part of the caliper touching it. Open the brake fill cap on the master cylinder. Use a C-clamp to compress the circular part. Reinstall the brake pad and brake fill cap. Install the caliper. Install the wheel and tighten lug nuts. I used a cheater bar on my tire iron and ensured that the lug bolts were flush with the head of the lug nuts. Then I removed the wheel to verify that the gap between the rotor and the hub was gone. Reinstall wheel, tighten lug nuts, and tighten spindle nut. Once both brakes have been replaced, start up the truck and pump the brakes several times till you feel some tension when pressing them.

sounds like it could be a hub cap not fully seated flexing with the wheel. Pull it off and just make sure its not loose lugnuts.

The rotor and hub assembly are held together by the studs,you must first remove the 4-wheel drive hub assembly,then the wheel bearing nuts,and pull the hub and rotor off as a unit. Next lay it(back down) on a piece of wood, using a drift punch drive the studs out. Turn it over ,lay it(face down) on a block of wood, line the new stud splines up with the grooves in the hub and drive them in with the punch and reassemble. A set of dentist style picks will be helpful with the clip in the 4wd hub and a 4 lug 4wd nut wrench will be needed.