20 Most Recent 1995 Ford Bronco Questions & Answers

Check the fuel tank selector valve on frame under front of bed drivers side.

Possible fuel pump. Try turning the ignition key on 3 or 4 times before cranking the engine over. This allows the fule pressure to build up. Hook up a gauge to check the pressure.

Check fluid first if k try bleeding slave cylinder. When my ranger failed it worked and it didn't. Replace both clutch cylinders, pressure plate, clutch disc, and throw out bearing. I used a small vacuum pump to pull fluid thru the system

Are you sure it's the right 02 sensor and it should set other codes again also are you sure you didn't unplug anything else and check the catalytic convertor to see if there's a big temperature difference one may be clogged or the egr is stuck closed is there a very rich exhaust? What size motor?check spark plugs and wires or boots for cracks and the coIL or packs we need precise info on your car so please post back with it

A blinking OD light means there is a problem with the electronically controlled transmission, you need the TCM module scanned for fault codes.

Do you still have the ignition key and will the ignition key cylinder switch turn? If so, you turn the key to Run, press the button on the bottom of the steering column that's accessible once the shroud is removed, then pull the key and cylinder switch out of the column. If you no longer have a working key, then things get a bit more tricky. I don't recall what year Ford started using the PATS system, but if your 1995 has PATS you'll need to have the PATS module reprogrammed to the new key before the car will start. -Rod

the largest tyre that can be fitted to the vehicle legally is specified on the tyre decal attached to the door post anything else , talk with a tire shop but it will still be *******

Well, there are several things. One is that your moter has quit working. 1995 to now is 21 yrs old. Have you replaced this moter since you had this car? Also there could be a faulty wire, mice love to chew on wires. Also wasps tend to live in anything they can get into. Wires on the switches tend to fall off connections or go bad. Hope this has helped in some way.

You will have to remove the bolts from the engine mounts and Jack up the engine. Remove the oil pan. If the oil pan cannot be removed at this point you will have to remove the engine from the car. Once the oil pan is removed the oil pump can be replaced by removing the bolts on the pump

By suggesting solenoid I guess you mean it will not even crank. Heat soak can make solenoid act this way. If it cranks but will not start, I suspect leaky fuel injector(s) flooding engine.

i would test it even if you go with an aftermarket radio you will have to have all your power and grounds.to test it simply pull the radio out to get the the wires.The red wire is a 12 volt ignition when the key is turned on it sends 12 volts to turn the radio on,the yellow wire is 12 volt constant it should always have power on it.,and finally the black wire is your ground the easy way to test the ground is to simply take a test light and hook it onto the positive post of your battery prob the wire and make sure it lights up.To check for power just do the opposite hook the lead on the light to the ground post on the battery.you may have to have a wire ( a jumper wire) to use to hook in between the battery and the test lead on your light.

The diagnostic plug should seperate from the plastic cover with a slight tug. It is not in the plastic cover that tight

Hello Jerry, it sounds like you need a new headlight switch. There is a circuit breaker inside of the switch that resets itself after the breaker activates.

CONVERTER IS A GOOD POSSIBILTY BUT CHECK YOUR FUEL FILTER AS WELL THESE ALSO HAVE AN ISSUE WITH THE FRONT PIPE COLLAPSING INTERNALLY

the truck s timing chine

The braided line is rubber or plastic inside so to be safe I would replace that area that was melted. it could be damaged inside and later flex may cause a leak. from the tank to the 2nd fuel pump is like 20 psi I think. or if the line is the return line I bet that is lower pressure.

Sounds like the switch in the t-case is sticking. The switch is next to the rubber hose vent line coming off the t-case

David, DTC 3-4 at idle means the EVP voltage is above the closed limit. Translation: The EVP sensor (EGR valve position) is unplugged or the wiring between it and the computer has an open. The EVP sensor has a 3-wire plug on it, and you can find the EVP on top of the EGR valve (that's the metal mushroom between the intake and a pipe coming from the driver side exhaust manifold (on a v-8)). It's also possible that the EVP sensor is bad (open). Good luck. Mike M, 35-year Phord Phixer