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Anonymous Posted on May 17, 2017

I have a 1996 Corvette 6 speed manual transmission which requires you to depress the clutch pedal to engage the ignition. Once in the past two weeks (this hasn't happened since), I had symptoms seemingly related to clutch pedal switch. After about ten minutes of no sound turning the key, the car finally started. If this is the problem, step by step instructions to replace the switch would be helpful. Or, is it possible this is not going to happen again? Thank you, Dave

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spank61

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  • Expert 139 Answers
  • Posted on May 18, 2017
spank61
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The switch is attatched to the clutch pedal or a bracket that stops the pedal when disengaged

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 05, 2008

SOURCE: 2001 impala security pass lock

I had the ignition problem in my Impala LS '01 and I solved it, my solution was to clean the 'IGN RLY' module with a little bit of WD-40 both terminals and socket, then, i put a silica gel bag near the module (in case the humidity may form tartar again) it was an instant solution, specially in rainy weather.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 12, 2008

SOURCE: My 1998 s10 2.2 truck will not start

-If the starter is only clicking or it is acting as if the clutch pedal was never pushed down- it is either one two things, (1) the click, click sound may be due to a bad battery connection or bad wire contact to the starter motor. (2) the neutral saftey switch which is attached to the clutch master cylinder on the inside of the vehicle, (under the dash) is deffective or needs adjusting-it is easier to simply replace it., no complex tools are needed for either repair, just a voltmeter to check wire connections on the battery to starter motor, or a small screwdriver driven socket to remove the screws holding the lower part of the dash together (below the steering column)- I hope this was helpful, I ran into a lot of problems after I swapped an engine and rebuilt the transmission on my 98 s10 but I eventually worked most of the problems out.

Ronnie Wilson

  • 1596 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2009

SOURCE: rover 600 1997 not engaging any gears when clutch fully depressed

Sounds like the SLave Cylinder has givin up Possible the Reli=eice Bearing I ALWAYS Replace As A PAIR . If you can put in gear by having someone rock the car front to back and it holds well its pretty Obvious that you DO have A Clutch Master Cylinder or Clutch Slave aat Releice Bearing Problem AGAIN These Parts I REPLACE AS A PAIR. Before ANything Chech Fluid Level that will tell the store IF FULL Most Probably MASTER-- If EMPTY then See where it went Look At SLAVE if wet thats the Culpret. --->> I Hope this INFO helps you and have a good Day >> Please dont forget to RATE me ok ? Thank You

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on May 18, 2009

SOURCE: OCCASIONALLY WHEN YOU TURN IGNITION KEY NOTHING HAPPENS

Had the same problem. There was something loose under the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood, If I moved it, the lights on the i/p and drl lights came on and it would start

edward80

  • 160 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 05, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 90' Isuzu pickup 4x4. The clutch pedal

you have either air in the line or a bad slave cylinder

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How to remove the code p1589 with fcar scanner

MULTI-MODE MANUAL TRANSAXLE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT
1. USING INTELLIGENT TESTER: CLAMP POSITIONADJUSTMENT (CLUTCH POSITIONADJUSTMENT)
Tech Tips
The multi-mode manual transmission system has a load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system). The pressure plate moves depending on the wear
condition of the clutch disc lining.
When removing or installing any parts related to the multi-mode manual transmission system, move the clutch actuator to the clutch clamp position. This is
for normal operation of the load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system).
If the clutch position adjustment operation input fails, perform the operation again from step (a) more than 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off.
Note
Do not depress the brake pedal while performing the clamp position adjustment using an intelligent tester.
a. Prepare the vehicle:
Stop the vehicle.
Shift the lever into the N position.
Turn the ignition switch off.
Apply the parking brake.
b. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3.c. Turn the ignition switch on (IG).
d. Turn the intelligent tester ON.
e. Select the following menu items: Powertrain / Multi-Mode M/T / Utility / Parts Exchange.
f. Read the information.
g. Press the Next key.
h. Read the information.i. After checking the vehicle condition, press the Next key.
j. Read the information.
k. Press the Next key.
l. Read the information.m. Press the Next key.
n. On the Multi-Mode M/T / Utility screen, select Step 1 Clutch Position Adjustment (Clamp Position Adjustment).
o. Press the Next key.
p. Read the information.q. Press the Next key.
r. Complete Clutch Position Adjustment.
s. Turn the intelligent tester OFF.
t. Turn the ignition switch off.
u. Replace the malfunctioning parts.
Tech Tips
Perform [Initialization and Learning] after repairing the multi-mode manual transmission control system .
2. WITHOUT USING INTELLIGENT TESTER: CLAMP POSITIONADJUSTMENT (CLUTCH POSITIONADJUSTMENT)
Tech Tips
The multi-mode manual transmission system has a load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system). The pressure plate moves depending on the wear
condition of the clutch disc lining.
When removing or installing any parts related to the multi-mode manual transmission system, move the clutch actuator to the clutch clamp position. This is
for normal operation of the load controlled clutch cover (adjustment system).
If the clutch position adjustment operation input fails, perform the operation again from step (a) more than 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off.a. Prepare the vehicle.
Stop the vehicle.
Shift the lever into the N position.
Turn the ignition switch off.
Apply the parking brake.
b. Using SST, connect terminals TC and CG of the DLC3
SST
09843-18040
c. Turn the ignition switch on (IG) with the brake pedal released.
d. Depress the brake pedal 7 times or more within 3 seconds.i. The buzzer sounds twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.
e. Depress the brake pedal.
f. Shift the shift lever in the following sequence with the brake pedal depressed: N?E?M?+?M?+?M?+?M?+?M?E?N.
g. Release the brake pedal.
h. Depress the brake pedal again.i. The buzzer sounds at intervals of 0.5 seconds as follows (an interval of 2.5 seconds exists between each cycle).
Once when adjusting the clutch clamp position (one cycle)
Tech Tips
If the buzzer does not sound at this time, wait at least 15 seconds after turning the ignition switch off. Then, perform the procedure from step
(a) again.
i. Depress the brake pedal 3 times or more within 2 seconds.
i. The buzzer sounds twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.
j. Depress the brake pedal.
k. Shift the shift lever to the [-] position with the brake pedal depressed.
l. Release the brake pedal.
m. Complete clutch position adjustment.
n. Turn the ignition switch off and wait at least 10 seconds.
o. Disconnect the SST from terminals TC and CG of the DLC3.
p. Repair the malfunctioning parts.Tech Tips
Perform [Initialization and Learning] after repairing the multi-mode manual transmission control system .
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transmission synchronizers most common cause of transmisson noise in certain gears, and not others, might want to check the gear oil level. Transmission rebuild required. To read about them and what they actually do, then here is a good read:
When you shift gears in your standard shift car, you move a rod that moves a fork that engages the gear. Depending which gear you're shifting to, a different fork does the job. The fork moves the collar to the desired gear, and dog teeth on the collar mesh up with holes on the gear in order to engage it. You engage reverse gear through a separate, small idler gear. The reverse gear always turns in the opposite direction of the other (forward) gears.
In years past, double-clutching was common in order to disengage a gear, allow the collar and next gear to reach the same speed, and then to engage the new gear. To double-clutch shift, you pushed the clutch pedal to free the engine from the transmission. Then the collar moved into neutral. You released the clutch and revved the engine to get it to the right rpm value for the next gear so the collar and the next gear spun at the same rate to allow the dog teeth to engage the gear. When the engine hit the right speed, you depressed the clutch again in order to lock the collar into place on the next gear.
Modern cars use synchronizers in order to avoid the need for double-clutching. A synchronizer, or "synchro," lets the collar and gear synchronize their speeds while they're already in contact but before the dog teeth engage. Each manufacturer's synchro is slightly different than the others, but the basic idea is the same. For instance, a cone on one gear will fit into a cone-shaped depression on the collar. The gear and collar synchronize their speeds thanks to the friction between the cone and collar. Then the outer part of the collar moves out of the way so that the gear can be engaged by the dog teeth.
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Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
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