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Ignition Coils/Modules
The electronic ignition system uses an individual ignition coil for each cylinder. There are two separate ignition module assemblies located in the camshaft cover of each cylinder bank. Each ignition module assembly contains an ignition control module and four ignition coils. Each ignition coil connects directly to a spark plug using a boot. This arrangement eliminates the need for secondary ignition wires. The ignition module assemblies receive power from a fused ignition feed. Both ignition module assemblies connect to chassis ground. A Reference Low and four ignition control (IC) circuits connect each ignition module assembly to the PCM. The PCM uses the individual IC circuits to control coil sequencing and spark timing for each ignition coil. The IC circuits transmit timing pulses from the PCM to the ignition control module to trigger the ignition coil and fire the spark plug. The PCM controls ignition system sequencing and timing events
Ignition control module, is not the same as an ECM, it is termed an "igniter" and is located in the distributor, as part of the reluctor wheel pickup and ignition module.
Generally the entire distributor is replaced as a unit for ease and typical distributor bearing issues.
Ignition "modulator"??? I assume you mean "ignition module" or "Ignition control module". If this is what you mean, it is mounted on the ignition coil assembly. Toyota refers to this part as "transistorized ignitor".
Instructions1 Use a wiring diagram for the year model of your vehicle. Locate the terminals running into and out of the ignition module. Placement of the module varies from model to model so check the appropiate service manual of your vehicle for the exact location. 2 Turn the ignition on and use your DVOM to check for voltage to the ignition module and the positive terminal of the ignition coil. Place the negative lead of your DVOM to a solid ground and use the positive lead to probe the wires running to the ignition module and to the ignition coil. 3 If your DVOM shows that voltage is present at both locations, remove the DVOM leads and set the meter aside. Connect the ground lead from the 12-volt test light to the negative terminal on the ignition coil. Have your partner crank the engine over several times. Your test light should flicker on and off. If so, your module is working properly and no further testing is necessary. 4 If your test light does not flicker on and off, visually inspect the wires running into and out of the ignition module. Look for burn marks, melted wire insulation and breaks in the wires. Use your wire splicing tool to remove the bad area in the wire and use your wire connectors and splicing tool to repair the faulty wires. 5 Use your DVOM to check for an open circuit condition in the primary coil winding. Touch the negative probe to the negative terminal on the ignition coil, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal. Set the meter to read ohms. If the reading shows infinite ohms, your ignition module is faulty and should be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for replacing your ignition coil. 6 Look to see if the DVOM test shows low to no ohms; if so, then you have a faulty ignition module that will have to be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for your vehicle to replace the module. Thanks
Your vehicle does have an ignition module. It's located under the ignition coil pack. (the 3 ignition coils) It's not cheap to replace. AND it's a bad guess as being the cause of your sputtering problem.
Charlie
This problem is normally caused by a faulty ignition module, which is located inside the distributor. They seem to be a weak point on Mazda 323s of this era. Open the distributor, and remove the rotor button. There is a round plastic cover over the ignition module, which must be removed. The ignition module is semi circular, and has four wires attached to it, via small screws. Take note of the location of each wire, and unscrew each one. The ignition module can be unscrewed with a phillips head screw driver, and removed. When fitting the replacement module, you must cover it with the heat sink compound that is supplied with the new module (mechanics sometimes refer to this compound as ignition module grease). Without the heat sink compound, the new module will over heat, and burn out. You should be able to replace the module in 15 minutes, it is very easy to do.
They don't have an ignition module per say.. You firing is controled by the PCM, which is the computer and is locater under your air intake box, which has to be remover for access. How did you come up with the idea it was a bad ignition module??
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