Which is correct wire to fix left side power window switch

Right side of the vehicle has a different power supply then left side . Two relay's . RAP #1 & RAP #2 . The RAP #1 relay supply's power to the radio an driver side power windows . I think maybe you have two different problems . The radio not turning off, maybe caused by the RAP relay having stuck contacts . Driver side windows not working , could have broken wire inside the flex boot from the body to the driver door .
Rap relay #1 is located in the left instrument panel fuse box .
Fuse Block -Left I/P
On the lower left side of the I/P
The RAP #1 relay is turned on by the BCM - body control module . Could have a DTC - diagnostic trouble code stored .
Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuit's use a wiring diagram an a DMM - digital multi-meter ? Pull the driver door panel off an check power an ground circuit's for the driver window switch . Free wiring diagrams here
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. Year , Make , Model an engine . Under system click on body & accessories , then under subsystem click on power windows . Click the search button then the blue link .
The Trainer 24 Power Window Troubleshooting

Good luck !

Test the MASTER switch at the drivers side. It seems to be a "wiring problem with the Master switch. The master switch is the switch that controls ALL the cars windows.

The passenger window switch gets both power and ground from the master switch. You have replaced the passenger side switch and it still had the same result and if the wiring is good from the master switch to the passenger side switch, then the only thing left would be the power window master switch. Check all wiring of the Master switch. That's the only thing that's left to do.

Sounds like there is a problem with the master switch on the left front door

BY PASS SWITCH BY RUNNING A FUSED JUMPER WIRE FROM THE BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL TO WINDOW MOTOR CONNECTOR, HOT SIDE, AND A NEGATIVE WIRE BACK TO BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL...IF WINDOW OPERATES....IT IS THE SWITCH

well you can try "jumping" the correct wire to see if window got up or down... this will tell u if switch is bad... but I would just go but a new master switch... try that before you cause more damage..

It may be that it is not on the track properly or your power window motor is old and tierd and can take the window down but it doesn't have the juice in it any more to bring it back up. replace the motor and it will work. This problem happened to me in my '76 ford ltd and a new motor fixed it.

The left power window switch tends to get bad contacts and stop working. You can simply pull out the switch trims (there is a clip at the pointy part of the trim, start prying there) and change the switch. 95% of the time the switch is the problem but if you want to be shure , check youre positive and ground at the switch, then take off the door trim, find the two wires that feed the window motor and with a fused wire (20 or 30 amps) and a battery, feed them a positive on one side and a ground on the other and vice versa. if the window move and power and ground are ok, switch is falty.

left front door around the hinge area. there is a rubber boot inside that rubber boot are the wires for the windows. open it and you'll see some broken wires, stripped wires, etc. fix it.

You have the wires connected to the wrong switches. Just reverse the wires with the door panel off until the correct switch operates the correct window. Also, the entire switch for each window on the driver's side could have been put in the wrong place on the switch pad even if they are correctly wired.

had same problem with 94. in the door jam there is a rubber boot that holds all the wires for your power windows and locks and stuff. remove the boot and check each of the wires in that harness to make sure they are not broke. that's what was wrong with mine on both doors. the wires break with repeated door openings.