My clutch pedal is going all the way to the floor..how do i adjust the clutch pedal..please help me

Sounds like the clutch cable needs adjustment so that the clutch is completely disengaged for shifting. Being a hydraulic clutch operation system there is no adjustment I'm afraid bar pedal height at the master cylinder push rod to pedal and that wouldn't solve the problem - as over all adjustment generally occurs as the clutch wears..so a good clutch would bite in the region of between the floor and mid way on the clutch pedal travel..if bite point is flat to floor then it possible you have drag on the clutch or its not clearing properly either a fault on the release system/hydraulic side either weak slave/master cylinder "prob try to bleed through again maybe and see if any improvement is felt"..or defective drive plate, buckled plate,weak pressure plate which releases the friction plate or seizure on spines/seized spigot bearing all of which would require inspection with the gearbox out. Hope this helps.

The clutch is not fully disengaging. Adjust the clutch cable to obtain a 1/2 inch of free play at the top of pedal stroke. If clutch adjustment is not correct, damage to synchronizers or clutch release bearing will occur. Your clutch should begin to engage about an inch off the floor when releasing the clutch pedal.

Just push and then lift the clutch pedal toward you to adjust the cable. The mechanism is above the clutch pedal and is selfadjusting as liong as you lift the pedal. If that don't work then the adjust mechanism is junk.

Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely.
Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.

make sure you don't have a leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder on the transmission as that would cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor. Check your clutch fluid level, then go back inside the car and look behind the clutch pedal like up towards the top of the clutch rod right by the firewall. You will see and adjustment nut, although I doubt that the adjustment is the problem. How long have you had this clutch in? You may need to have the clutch replaced.

This is from http://refrigeratedtrans.com/mag/transportation_replace_original_equipment/

"A good clutch adjustment begins by identifying the location of the bearing. It should be positioned 1/2" to 9/16" from the clutch brake."

"After the bearing is set, adjust the truck linkage to allow the clutch brake to squeeze a .010" feeler gauge between the bearing and clutch brake when the pedal is no more than 1" to 1.5" from the floor. Setting the clutch brake position too far from the floor reduces the stroke to the clutch and could cause release problems and reduce brake life.
All that remains is checking the free-pedal distance in the cab. With the pedal in the up position, there should be 1" to 3" of free pedal. The clutch is now adjusted correctly."

hi the clutch on accent is hydraulic operation so if pedal is very low on disengaging clutch ? you may have a problem with the hydraulics 1st thing to check is fluid level? this is the reservoir that feeds both brakes and clutch but is seperaterated inside if fluid low? top up and bleed the slave cyl however if fluid low indicates a leak ? possibly slave cyl? if no loss of fluid ? then prob may be fault in the master cyl ? check fluid come back with any update please ps if this problem has just occured? check for leaks ?

first i would try adjusting the clutch cable because commonly people with think that they're clutch is going out when really just the cable has gotten stretched....try adjusting that first and if that works then you should be fine for another couple thousand miles but if you want to not have to worry bout it for awhile i would just replace teh clutch assembly....usually ranges from $200 to $450 depending on the clutch set and the mechanic that does the work for you. Let me know what happens. :)

you have civic SI type R with the K20A engine and 6sp transmission? correct?

yes the clutch is adjustable.

1. loosen the clutch pedal position switch(lower of the 2 switches) locknut and back off the clutch pedal position switch.
2. loosen the clutch push-rod locknut and turn the push-rod in or out to get the desired height and stroke of the pedal.
3. tighten the push-rod locknut
4. with the clutch pedal released, turn the clutch pedal position switch in until it contacts the clutch pedal.
5. turn the clutch pedal position switch in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.
6. tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut.
7. loosen the clutch interlock switch(the upper switch) locknut and then the interlock switch.
   
8. press the clutch pedal to the floor.
9. release the pedal about 1/2 in. from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. adjust the position of the interlock switch so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
10. tighten the interlock switch locknut.

clutch pedal stroke should be: 5.1 - 5.5 in
clutch pedal height should be: 7.76 in

if adjusting the clutch doesn't help with the transmission feeling notchy, may be the syncros.

DEar Customer,

your from is that your car is front wheel drive & you have to reset your car clutch point that loose its sensitivity as they had before,

its not a big prib you have to open bonet than make more active clutch wire with streching clutch joints.

THNX